My Third Dovetail Jig

[Vince Shriver]

I purchased the Akeda last weekend and used it to make some half blind dovetails to trim out my new workbench. Outside of that, I've just played around with it making dovetail joints on scraps and have yet to experience any problem with looseness. I'm using a Dewalt DW618 fixed base router with a 7/16" brass bushing and followed the Akeda manual to a tee.

I like this jig so much, that I'm redoing a couple of my project designs just so I can add dovetails.

Tim, What make router bit are you using. I understand that with the Akeda the particular brand of bit makes a difference. Thanks, Vince

[John Thompson]

I purchased a Keller 5-6 years ago and used it twice. It is really a simple jig.. not that expensive and did a great job until I sold it shortly after. Very good but I just decided I don't like machine cut dove-tails and it robbed me of the challenge of cutting by hand as I had been doing the previous 30 years or so before the purchase.

BTW.. the gentlemen I sold it too absolutely loves it.

Sarge..

[Jim Eller]

I have researched this subject for a month and after reading review after review with the same basic conclusion, I ordered the Akeda DC24 with C-kit. I could only find one(1) major negative review of the Akeda. After reading that whole review I believe there was another issue involved, but everyone is entitled to their opinion.

It should be here tomorrow and I will then give my own opinion.

As far as bits are concerned, I believe the Whiteside bits have a 1/4" shank vs. the 8mm shank of the Akeda. Now we can get into the breakage and vibration debate.

Thanks,
Jim

[Steven Bolton]

I have read nothing but good reports on the Akeda.

I thought with the Keller I would get simplicity. I do wonder how hard it would be to vary the spacing and cut every other pin and tail.

Good luck with the Akeda.

Steve Bolton

[J. Z. Guest]

Robert, that stop block setup, is that how you ensure that the pin & tail piece end up perfectly aligned? I wonder if I could do that on my MLCS jig...

I have the cheaper MLCS version of the Keller jig.

The only thing I miss about the Keller is the bearing-guided bit. It makes me wonder why it is taking everyone so long to realize that this is indeed far superior to bushings and having to make sure they're centered.

[Robert Strasser]

Jeremy is correct. The stop block is for aligning the pins and tails.

As far as keeping the wood vertical, the wood rests on the template and that pretty much keeps it straight. Just clamp it tight.

The track is the standard 3/4 inch wide by 3/8 inch deep track. Rockler is one place that has it.

[Ray Schafer]

Jeremy,

If you look at this video, he shows how to add t-track and lock downs to the MLCS. Looks pretty cool.

How do you like the MLCS dovetail jig? I am thinking about getting one?

[Gene E Miller]

Greetings & Salutations,

Just thought I would put in my .02 worth.

I have an Akeda that I was lucky enough to get on ebay that
was used like one time for$150 bucks with the complete
accessory kits of extra pin and tail pieces as well as the dust
collection kit and 2 sets of router bits.

I have used it to build 3 solid cherry cedar chest that had the
main box dovetailed together as well as 3 drawers in the chest
that were all made with thru dovetails.

I made some riser blocks to raise the jig up on my bench so that
I can sit on a stool and look directly into the jig and see
what I am cutting. With the dust collection I have very little
trouble with flying debris. It all gets sucked up as fast as
it gets made.

I only wish I could find as good a deal on the new longer
version that Akeda now has as I did on the one I now have.

I found the manual was very easy to follow as this was the
very first time I had ever used a dovetail jig or even cut
dovetails and I was able to get excellent fits the first time
out.

I made one sample of tails and pins on some scrap and then
went right to the main case of the cedar chest that I made
which was 5/4 cherry. The depth of the main box was 14"
and I did not ruin a single piece.

When I first made my samples I had some issues with
cutting on the right and left sides of the jig and which
face of the work piece to put out. I called customer
service at Akeda and got excellent help from their people.

I would highly recommend this jig to anyone especially if
you don't have any expierence cutting dovetails at all as
I did when I first got mine. I now look for ways to incorporate
dovetails in my work.

Thanks for listening.

Gene

[Chip Lindley]

I must 2nd Richard's thoughts on the Leigh D4 (or any dovetail jig) using smaller routers. Larger is not better, and No plungers! I have used two dedicated routers with my D4 for lots of years. An old Black & Decker Professional 1-1/2hp (later DeWalt) for the straight bit. A P-C 690 for the Dovetail bit. They both remain set up with guide bushings and adjusted to exact depth of cut. I love the versatility of the Leigh. My very first 3/4" blanket chest dovetails were perfect wayy back when!

[Paul Johnstone]

Robert, thanks for the tip. I have a Keller jig that I have not tried out yet, but I will definitely add your enhancement.

[Sean Rainaldi]

I must 2nd Richard's thoughts on the Leigh D4 (or any dovetail jig) using smaller routers. Larger is not better, and No plungers!...

Does the "No plungers" assertion include the Festool OF 1400? That's the router that I have, and hope to use it on either the Akeda 24" or Leigh D4R- have not decided on which jig yet...