Stand for bench-top drill press

[Tom Sontag]

Couple of quick thoughts:

1 - You could bolt the casters near the edge and ends of hardwood ~2x4s* and then screw the 2x4s to the bottom of the cabinet so the ends hang out an inch or so each way (sides and front/back). This puts the casters a little further out for better tippy control. I did this on a chest high cabinet with grinders on top and the wider stance works fine without compromise.

2 - Is there any reason your drawers do not go full width?

*Using 2" thick material lets you countersink the bolt heads so the wood can be flush with the cabinet bottom. Surely thinner wood can work some other way.

[John Schreiber]

Good ideas. The drawers are less than full width for two reasons and one of them relates to Dave's idea to add weight to the bottom.

Since I would be using the grinder from one side and the drill press from the other, the drawers pull out in both directions. That means there's no back to keep the cabinet from wracking. To compensate for that, I used the sides as a torsion structure. I didn't want to have the casters on outriggers simply because I know I'll stub my toes on them. That's why the box is so wide.

Also, having the sides open gives me the option of poring sand into the torsion box if I feel it is necessary to lower the center of gravity. If that is not sufficient, a box attached between the casters would be the way to go. I'll play with the design a little to see how I could do that eligantly. At very least, I'd need clearance for bolt heads between the bottom drawer and the bottom of the case.

If there's anything I want to be stable when I'm under sedation, it is the anesthesieologist and his or her equipment. (I suppose the surgeon too, but most of the ones I've met are not that stable.)

[Tom Sontag]

Good reasons. I did not realize that you would be grinding from the other side. Sounds like you have a good overall plan.