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Thread: Full Kerf Woodworker II Requires Stabilizer

  1. #31
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Grantham, New Hampshire
    Posts
    1,128
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Brown
    I have the Ridge Carbide dado set. It's pretty nice.
    How's the RC compare? They look like a beefier blade.

    Pete
    The plates are the same thickness. We measured some just the other day. I think the carbide tips on the RC are heavier and the grind is different.

    CPeter

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Brown
    I have the Ridge Carbide dado set. It's pretty nice.

    I purchased the WW II a year or two back instead of the RC blade based primarily on reviews in the magazines. The WW II always came in top.

    How's the RC compare? They look like a beefier blade.

    Pete
    The RC's carbide is notably thicker...as in 30-40%. The rest of the blade and geometry are very similar to the WWII #6 grind, except that AFAIK the RC is honed to a finer grit. The cuts are head to tell apart IME.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  3. #33

    Talking

    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Brown
    Thanks. Looking at that, I realize I have seen it before. It just didn't register.

    I'm going to email Forrest and let them know how their reps have been behaving.

    Pete
    Look at your sales receipt and see if it says Forrest Manufacturing Co, or something else. Snake oil salesmen are alive and doing well. By toughting the # 6 grind as a NEW STYLE OF BLADE, many owners of the old style WWII's will fork over cash (credit card) to have NEW STYLE of blade. Seems the Forrest #6 grind is trying to duplicate what the Freud LU 84 already does.

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Wisconsin
    Posts
    256

    Liability maybe?

    I bought a second WW2 for my TS this fall at a WC event at the local WC store. Thought it would be nice to have two, one on the saw and a spare or out being sharpened. I use the full kerf blade. The Forrest rep said the reason they recommend the stabilizer is a modest improvement in performance but alluded the main reason is they don't want you ripping more than 2" thick stock and the stabilizer limits rip capacity. A check of the materials included with the blade confirm Forrest recommends not ripping over 2" stock.

    I have a 3" dewalt stabilizer that I use, figure it can't hurt, but doubt it really makes any difference.

    A reputation for craftsmanship is a responsibility
    to never take lightly.

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn
    ...Seems the Forrest #6 grind is trying to duplicate what the Freud LU 84 already does.
    The #6 grind is closer to the Ridge Carbide TS2000 than the LU84. The tooth count, hook angle, and geometry are very similar. The LU84 is a classic 50T ATB/R combination blade with 10 degree hook, and 10 groupings of 4 ATB teeth and a flat raker with a large gullet between each grouping. The WWII and TS2000 are 40 toofers with a 20 degree hook and similarly ground teeth.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Gambrills, MD - Near Annapolis
    Posts
    556
    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce Wrenn
    Look at your sales receipt and see if it says Forrest Manufacturing Co, or something else. Snake oil salesmen are alive and doing well. By toughting the # 6 grind as a NEW STYLE OF BLADE, many owners of the old style WWII's will fork over cash (credit card) to have NEW STYLE of blade. Seems the Forrest #6 grind is trying to duplicate what the Freud LU 84 already does.
    I didn't purchase anything from him . He was representing FOrrest, but I know he worked for another company; I just don't recall which.

    Pete

  7. #37
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Mpls, Minn
    Posts
    2,882
    I suppose ya can't hang Forrest in all fairness, but it does bring up a good point, and that's ya can't believe everyone ya talk to...unfortunately.

    Caution would dictate that you get at least a second opinion on any question you might have, that unfortnately being a royal pita.

    Not sure if Forrest can, or would do anything about this, but I'd send him a email and mention that I wasn't to happy with one of the sellers that was representing his product.

    Buyer beware comes to mind here.
    I'd be worried I'd get the wrong information a one of them $100 blades, and I can afford a $15 stabilizer mistake, not so on a $100 item.

    Either way it doesn't bode well for Forrest to have reps giving out possible misinformation.
    Just a thought.
    Al

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Milford, Pa
    Posts
    99
    I have a full-kerf WWII blade and initially used it without a stabilizer. It worked as promised. I then installed a 3 inch dia. stabilizer and the cut improved a bit. The stabilizer is still on the saw.

    As Forrest Gump said; "And that's all I have to say 'bout that".
    Carry on, regardless.

  9. #39
    I got one with my WWII a few yrs ago and have used the blade with it and without it. I don't see much of a difference. It may be a little quieter with it on but I'm not sure. I tend to keep it on since I don't think I've ever had to cut anything where I was limited by the stabilizer's reduction in blade height.

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