Several pen questions (kinda long)

[Jerry Baldwin]

I'm a newbie to pen turning - I've turned about 20 pens / pencils so far and I have a few questions (actually I have a lot of questions but I'll just ask a few now).

1. Using the American flat-top pen kits, the top barrel does not fit really tight on the botom of the pen - is that normal? I've handed a couple of pens to friends and the first thing they do is simply try to twist the top barrel to expose the pen. It just rotates on the pen without exposing the point. I have to tell them to put down pressure on the barrels and twist. Is there a way to increase the fit? Do any of you include an "instruction sheet" with the pens?

2. My least favorite part of the pen-making process is gluing the tubes in the blanks. Do most of you use CA glue? How do you apply it? I've found it extremely messy stuff to work with and hard to apply. I've tried straws and Q-tips but it's still not pleasant. Once I had it cure before the tube was fully inserted. I tried Gorilla glue on a few of the last ones I made and it seems to be a little easier to work with (although it's the next day before I can proceed). Any suggestions?

3. For pens that leave a tenon of the tube - Do you cut the blank to the correct size first or expose the tenon with a parting tool? I've tried both and I like cutting the blank to the correct size first but that leads to my next question.

4. Does anyone make a little tool that would slip over the tenon and "clean it up" similar to the way the pen mills work on the other end? Currently, I get the razor knife out to clean up the excess glue that always oozes out.

OK, I'll stop for now. I appreciate your responses.

Jerry

[Ken Salisbury]

Wow !! lots of questions require lots of answers. Hopefully I have answered them all. If not please respond.

1. Using the American flat-top pen kits, the top barrel does not fit really tight on the botom of the pen - is that normal? I've handed a couple of pens to friends and the first thing they do is simply try to twist the top barrel to expose the pen. It just rotates on the pen without exposing the point. I have to tell them to put down pressure on the barrels and twist. Is there a way to increase the fit? Do any of you include an "instruction sheet" with the pens?

There can be several problems which are occurring:

The top portion of the pen (FT American and RT Euro styles) is critical. If the wooden portion of the top is too long the mechanism will not work properly. Shorter is better - longer is a disaster. Here is a drawing I made some time back on that issue:

The other problem may be that the twist holder is slipping in the lower barrel. I always apply a SMALL drop of super glue when inserting the twist holder in the bottom of the barrel.

2. My least favorite part of the pen-making process is gluing the tubes in the blanks. Do most of you use CA glue? How do you apply it? I've found it extremely messy stuff to work with and hard to apply. I've tried straws and Q-tips but it's still not pleasant. Once I had it cure before the tube was fully inserted. I tried Gorilla glue on a few of the last ones I made and it seems to be a little easier to work with (although it's the next day before I can proceed). Any suggestions?

I use polyurethane glue rather than CA when inserting the tubes. This requires leaving them sit for a period of about 3 to 4 hours before turning. I usually let sit overnight. I do in some cases use CA glue (for Corian and acrylics). A caution is in order – make sure you use rubber gloves when working with polyurethane glues since the residue on your hands is extremely hard to get off. You should also scruff up the tubes with 120 – 150 grit paper for better glue adhesion.

3. For pens that leave a tenon of the tube - Do you cut the blank to the correct size first or expose the tenon with a parting tool? I've tried both and I like cutting the blank to the correct size first but that leads to my next question.

I am not sure if you mean those pen kits which require a wooden tenon for the center ring (re: Gold Top Euro/Mont Blanc style) or in the case of the FT American which leaves a portion of the tube exposed for the center ring. In the case of leaving a wooden tenon I simply measure and reduce the diameter to the size required using a parting tool, measuring with a pair of calibers for the size. In the case of leaving a portion of the tube exposed like in the picture above I cut the top blank to the correct length and check with a gauge to insure 3. For pens that leave a tenon of the tube - Do you cut the blank to the correct size first or expose the tenon with a parting tool? I've tried both and I like cutting the blank to the correct size first but that leads to my next question.it is not too long. (You can purchase a gauge used for this purpose from Berea Hardwoods $5.00.)

4. Does anyone make a little tool that would slip over the tenon and "clean it up" similar to the way the pen mills work on the other end? Currently, I get the razor knife out to clean up the excess glue that always oozes out.

As stated above I use a parting tool. You could also do this with a skew chisel if you prefer.

[Jerry Baldwin]

Ken, thanks for the quick response.

I purchased the barrel guage from you and make sure the length is "dead on". Maybe I should make them a little shorter?

Hmm, it may be the twist holder slipping - I'll check that out. Do you have any suggestions on the pens I've already assembled to "snug up the fit"?

Thanks.

Jerry

[Ken Salisbury]

Ken, thanks for the quick response.

I purchased the barrel guage from you and make sure the length is "dead on". Maybe I should make them a little shorter?

Hmm, it may be the twist holder slipping - I'll check that out. Do you have any suggestions on the pens I've already assembled to "snug up the fit"?

Thanks.

Jerry

Jerry - If the top barrel fits losely in the "A" section of the guage - then then the twist holder must be slipping - or there is always the possibility of a bad twist mechanism. It happens - but not that often.