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Thread: Question on Finishing Red Oak Cradle.

  1. #1

    Question Question on Finishing Red Oak Cradle.

    Well, I'm getting close to completing the cradle, and the baby will probably be here within the next two weeks which brings me to my next question. I have little finishing knowledge and would like some suggestions on how to finish the Red Oak Cradle. Bruce Page and Nathan Yeager of SMC made this same cradle and I really like how they made the panels, hardware, runner tops, and spindles contrast lighter than the rest of the cradle. But since mine is made entirely of Red Oak, can I still make some sort of contrast look good using a combination of finishing products? You can see theirs at http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=2801
    and http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=30065

    I am also concerned about safety, and my wife will be especially worried if there is any odor whatsoever. I'd rather let the baby sleep elsewhere for a few days/weeks to let a better looking finish cure than to use something that will cure in less time but not look so great.

    I researched a few methods already such as using Seal-A-Cell followed by a few coats of Arm-R-Seal. I was thinking of using Seal-A-Cell everywhere, then clear Arm-R-Seal for the panels, spindles, and other areas I want to be lighter, then Arm-R-Seal with a darker stain added on the other parts to get the similar contrast as on Bruce and Nathan's. I just so happened to choose the darker boards for the frames and lighter boards for the panels.

    What would be the best (and safe) method to finish the Red Oak?

    THANKS!
    Stephen

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    All finishes are totally safe when fully cured. The issue for you is that an oil-based finish is going to off gas for awhile as it cures...up to a month. So you could consider using de-waxed shellac as a sealer and "color coat" followed by a water borne finish if you want to avoid the odor issue--or just shellac. Time is still necessary for a full cure, but at least it will not smell up your house.

    BTW, temperature is critical. Be sure to follow the minimum temp requirements on the finish container for best results and cure time.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    In the foothills of the Sandia Mountains
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    Stephen, I know of 2 ways to get a contrast, I’m sure there are other ways like dying etc.
    One way would be to stain the stile & rails a darker color and leave the spindles/panels natural color.
    A higher contrast option is to apply a whitewash to the spindles/panels. Personally, I don’t think the whitewash would look nice but that’s just my opinion.
    I would recommend Bartley’s whip-on varnish for the finish. It is relatively easy to apply, and is forgiving if you mess up. I don’t recall it smelling for more than a few days.
    Please help support the Creek.


    "It's paradoxical that the idea of living a long life appeals to everyone, but the idea of getting old doesn't appeal to anyone."
    Andy Rooney



  4. #4

    Thanks

    Thanks for the input. I'm going to test three different ways on scrap and let SWMBO decide. I'm going with General Finishes Seal-A-Cell and Arm-R-Seal.
    1) 1 coat Seal-A-Cell CLEAR on spindles/panels/knobs & Seal-A-Cell stain (maybe antique cherry?) on rails/stiles/uprights/feet. Arm-R-Seal SATIN topcoat on all. (3 coats). Satin for oak right (low gloss)?

    2) Seal-A-Cell CLEAR on all & 3 coats Arm-R-Seal SATIN on all.

    or 3) Seal-A-Cell STAIN on all & 3 coats Arm-R-Seal SATIN on all.

    If anyone has used this stuff on oak and has pictures I would really like to see how it came out. I'm not sure about the choice of stain, but I will test Antique Cherry and mahogany on some scraps. I finished the basket last night, so if the baby comes now he can sleep in it while I finish the stand.
    Stephen

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