Frued Glue Line Ripping Blade - $23.99 at Amazon

[Tim Malyszko]

Just to let you know, the Frued 30-T Glue Line Ripping blade is on sale at Amazon.com for $29.99 + the 20% discount, which brings the cost down to $23.99.

Here's the link:
http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LM74M010...7?ie=UTF8&s=hi

It's not the Perma Shield coated blade, but still one heck of a deal. This is the cheapest I've ever seen this blade and picked one up for myself.

[Ken Werner]

Where is the 20% discount?

[Tim Malyszko]

Where is the 20% discount?

Sorry.

Save 20% each on 10" & 12" blades, dados & router bits offered by Amazon.com when you purchase 1 or more. Enter code 2OOFFPTA at checkout

[Mike Henderson]

Where is the 20% discount?

It showed up automatically when I went to checkout. No need to enter a code.

Mike

[Dennis Putnam]

Just to let you know, the Frued 30-T Glue Line Ripping blade

OK, stupid question here. Other then what its name implies, what is a glue line ripping blade and why do I want one?

[Jim O'Dell]

My question is if the price falls below 25.00 because of the discount, does it still qualify for free shipping? I'm not in the market for one, but this question could come into play on other items I might want to order in the future. Anyone know? Jim.

[Gary Keedwell]

It is supposed to give a glue ready finish after you rip it. No need to run it through a jointer. Alot of quality blades will usually give the same results. IMHSHO

Gary K.

[Glen Blanchard]

Will this blade create a flat bottom if used for a non-through cut?

[Tim Reagan]

Woohoo! thanks for the update. I missed the price drop a couple of weeks ago.

[Robert McGowen]

My question is if the price falls below 25.00 because of the discount, does it still qualify for free shipping? I'm not in the market for one, but this question could come into play on other items I might want to order in the future. Anyone know? Jim.

Yes, the shipping is still free. I ordered a 2-blade Dewalt combo yesterday and with the discount it was $23 and some change. Shipping was still free even though the total cost was under $25.

[Dennis Putnam]

It is supposed to give a glue ready finish after you rip it. No need to run it through a jointer. Alot of quality blades will usually give the same results. IMHSHO

Gary K.

Thanks for the reply. I always thought the reason a jointer was needed was because the precision machined table was guaranteed to produce a perfectly flat finish at exactly 90 degrees to the side. A saw blade that can do the same thing? I am just a beginner here but the physics escapes me. How does this blade compensate for rotational imperfections that an ordinary blade can't? Can I take a jointer off my wish list?

[Hoa Dinh]

Will this blade create a flat bottom if used for a non-through cut?

Almost, not quite.

To get a flat bottom, you need a blade with flat teeth. The blade in question has triple-chip teeth. The sides of the groove will be just slightly deeper than the center.

[Tom Jones III]

Can I take a jointer off my wish list?

No. I've got this blade and it does a great job but it is not meant to replace a jointer. If you have milled a board to S3S and you need to cut it to width then glue it up, you can sometimes simply rip it to width with this blade and then glue it up. With most blades taking a light pass over the jointer after ripping would be mandatory.

[Noah Katz]

"A saw blade that can do the same thing? I am just a beginner here but the physics escapes me."

A jointer by nature makes a curved cut because of its blade trajectory, whereas a TS blade tooth moves in a plane, so if the blade/arbor has no runout it should be a flatter cut.

I was told recently in another thread that an edge sander was used after the jointer, which squares with that.

[Dennis Putnam]

A jointer by nature makes a curved cut because of its blade trajectory, whereas a TS blade tooth moves in a plane, so if the blade/arbor has no runout it should be a flatter cut.

I was told recently in another thread that an edge sander was used after the jointer, which squares with that.

OK but the key is what happens when you butt 2 pieces together for glueing. The jointer, as I understand it, makes all pieces precisely straight and at 90 degrees so that the seam is nearly invisible (the center relief also helps). What I am missing is how a blade can do this since there is all kinds of small errors in the blade's plane of rotation due to bearing wear, runout, etc. That makes for a wavy edge and 2 pieces will never match up identically as with a jointer. So what is special about this blade that can compensate for that where an ordinary blade cannot?