12", 10", Powermatic, Grizzly

[Jim Becker]

Adding to Jody's comments...the spacing to the side of the blade is not unlike that on my MM slider. If you are concerned with the strength of the narrow strip to the side of the blade, you can choose to use a stronger material for your insert, such as a phenolic product like Garolite CE. This material isn't inexpensive, but has the strength that MDF, plywood, etc., do not have in similar dimensions.

[Noah Katz]

"Riving knife is the latest "craze", but you are right, a good splitter will do the job as well."

A riving knife is superior because it raises and lowers w/the blade and can be spaced so that it is no more than a few mm from the blade at all times.

There can be inches between the blade and a splitter where warped could close on the blade.

[Bartee Lamar]

Okay, I gotta ask, have you considered a SawStop.

[Jody Malinich]

Eric,

Measured the gap and it is 3/16".
Jody

[Eric Nelson]

Thanks for the first hand info Jody. It still seems unusual, but if no one has had issue with it, maybe it is not a big deal.

Bartee, as per the sawstop. The safety feature really looks nice, and I would not mind paying extra to get it. But the 5959z is ~$1695, and a similarly equipped sawstop is ~$3,369 (according to each web site). Thats nearly double the price! The sawstop price is simply outside my budget.

[Eric Nelson]

After considering everyones much appreciated input, I have decided I am going to order the Grizzley 5959z. Thank you very much for your input. It really helps a lot.

Shiraz,

I work with a group that designs embedded computers for automobiles, medical devices, industrial devices, etc. If you ever decide to add computer control, or automate any of your tools, drop me a line. Maybe I can return the favor by telling you about our products!

Jody,

Thanks for the measurment, and the outfeed table suggestion. I will be ordering the outfeed table too.

Now begins the wait (delivery)...It is never fast enough...

Thanks,
Eric N

[Eric Nelson]

I haven't had as much time to spend on it as I would like but, here is what I have found so far...

I ordered the saw, a 37" roller table, and a mobile base. I ordered these on a Thursday from Grizzley, and everything arrived by the following tuesday (I live in Minnesota). Talk about fast delivery!

I ripped appart the crate of the saw & assembled it just enough to power it up (no wings, rails, etc.). There was a pretty strong vibration to begin with, but I saw the belts had a pretty strong set. So I loosened the 3 belts, and moved the set of each belt out of phase from one another. I also tightened the belts just a little tighter than what they were. The vibration was significantly less. It passed the nickel on edge test, but there is still some vibration.

I assembled the wings, the rails & drilled the holes in the cabinet for the outfeed roller table. Rather than centering the roller table on the cabinet, I offset it a little bit to avoid the power cord. It took a lot of measuring & thought because I wanted to mount the table in the most usefull place, but I also did not want the mounting bolt to end up under the dust pan of the cabinet. The thought of lifting/jacking the saw in the air & reaching under it to tighten a bolt does not sound appealing. In the end, I got it mounted where I wanted.

Next, I found the recomended roller base that I bought did not have an extension available that would put casters under the rail legs. (Contrary to the picture in the grizzley catalog, the rails do come with legs) But, the next size smaller mobile base did offer the extension. I ordered this one, but as expected, it did not mount up to my mobile base. So, I pulled out the welder & made a bracket. That did the trick.

I have only had time to cut a few scrap boards so far, but it really feels strong & smooth. I never had an outfeed roller table, and after just a few cuts, I don't know why or how I could have lived without one.

To help get rid of the last little bit of vibration I ordered a few feet of link belts to replace the original 3 V-belts. I haven't recieved those yet, so I don't know how effective they will be. I do not measure any runout of the arbor pully (+-.001"). I cannot measure the motor pully runout without removing the table top. If I eyeboll it, it looks like there could be a small bit of runout, but I cannot be sure without measuring it. I also noticed the fan on the motor seems to be off center a little bit, this might also be the source of the last little bit of vibration.

The bottom line is that it passes the nickel on edge test, so I suspect the saw overall is in spec. But, one way or another, I will get rid of that last little bit.

In the mean time, I am ready to start making chips!

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/attachme...1&d=1175516380

[Jim Becker]

Congrats on your new saw! It's certainly not a tiny thing...