Finishing Maple Plywood

[Jeff Caskie]

Thanks Mark... yes, I like to say it is thouroughness.. rather than analness

I thought I would show some pics. This one is baed primarily on the sample packs I was using. You will note the yellow Amber shellac piece in the lower right hand corner.

[Jeff Caskie]

Here are the two winners. Olympic on the left and MinWax on the right. No basecoat.

[Jeff Caskie]

These are the same two (two coats)... with a clear shellac base coat. You will note they are very similar...

[Jeff Caskie]

I then decided that I would try the Amber Shellac which is available at Lowes/HD. Way too yellow. I would be interested to hear what this is typically used on.. because of it being so yellow. Not exactly the amber I was hoping for.

So, this is what my plans are so far:
Base Coat: Zinsser Bulls Eye Clear Shellac
Second Layer: Olympic 'Aged Maple' Gel Stain OR MinWax 'Antique Maple' Gel Stain (two coats)
Protective Layer: WATCO Wipe-On Polyurethane, Satin (multiple coats)
Finish Coat: Deft Water-Based Clear Wood Finish Satin Aerosol

Does this sound like a good plan? Any thoughts/comments??

ttt

any thoughts/comments?

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Jeff....I'm just surprised some of our resident finishing experts haven't responded to this.


I'm no expert but the only thing I would wonder about is the water based finish over the oil based poly...Will you end with problems?

Hopefully someone with more experience than I will comment and give you better advice!

[Jeff Caskie]

I'm no expert but the only thing I would wonder about is the water based finish over the oil based poly...Will you end with problems?

I hadn't thought of that. Logically, it seems I may have a problem with that.....

[Steve Schoene]

I have several concerns. First is the use of a shellac containing wax under a polyurethane finish. Polyurethane and waterborne finishes don't adhere very well to shellac containing wax, which the Clear does. There is a very thin layer of stain between them but I would be concerned that there wouldn't be sufficient barrier. There are several solutions to these concerns. One is to use Zinsser Seal Coat, which is dewaxed. (It is a relatively light color, though not quite as light as the Clear which has been chemically bleached.) Alternatively, a traditional resin non-poly varnish, will adhere to shellac with wax.

Secondly, you don't mention thinning the shellac. Out of the can it is at least 3 lbs. cut while wash coats are usually in the 1 lbs. cut range. You may not need the wash coat with a gell stain, which by its nature doesn't blotch very strongly. Only tests will determine whether you need the wash coat and if so what cut is appropriate.

Over an appropriate substrate, the wipe on poly, or any wipe on oil based varnish, will be more durable than the waterborne top coat you propose. I don't see any reason to shift finishes, from a relatively protective one to one much less protective.

[Jeff Caskie]

I have several concerns. First is the use of a shellac containing wax under a polyurethane finish. Polyurethane and waterborne finishes don't adhere very well to shellac containing wax, which the Clear does. There is a very thin layer of stain between them but I would be concerned that there wouldn't be sufficient barrier. There are several solutions to these concerns. One is to use Zinsser Seal Coat, which is dewaxed. (It is a relatively light color, though not quite as light as the Clear which has been chemically bleached.) Alternatively, a traditional resin non-poly varnish, will adhere to shellac with wax.

My mistake.... I wrote the wrong thing. I am actually using Zinsser Bulls Eye Wax Free SealCoat (Universal Sanding Sealer)

Secondly, you don't mention thinning the shellac. Out of the can it is at least 3 lbs. cut while wash coats are usually in the 1 lbs. cut range. You may not need the wash coat with a gell stain, which by its nature doesn't blotch very strongly. Only tests will determine whether you need the wash coat and if so what cut is appropriate.

I was under the impression that the sealer is already cut to some degree. Does it need to be diluted further?

Edit- the label says it is a 2# cut

Over an appropriate substrate, the wipe on poly, or any wipe on oil based varnish, will be more durable than the waterborne top coat you propose. I don't see any reason to shift finishes, from a relatively protective one to one much less protective.

The only reason for the Deft spray on, is to provide a 'streak free' finish. It was suggested by the Woodcraft employee as the final finish...

[Jeff Caskie]

I do have a HVLP sprayer (gravity)/compressor that I could use... but I am hesitant to give it a go for fear of messing up. Maybe I will go for it anyway. If so, should I thin the sealer more?

As for the gel stain, what is the best application method... just wipe on w/ old sock/shirt and wipe off?

[mark page]

Jeff,

You can skip your aerosol spray because your poly is going to provide the greatest amount of protection. If something other than a satin finish is what you are desiring, switch to a higher gloss poly.
Hope this helps,
Mark