Threading Black Pipe

[Chris Jenkins]

I'm getting ready to plumb in the air lines in the basement now that the garage is cleaned up and the air compressor is ready to go.

I am still up in the air a little bit about using black pipe vs copper.

Anyone try threading their own pipe? I saw HF has cheap kits for $30. Is this worth doing? I don't plan on doing this often so I didn't want to invest in a nice $200 Ridgid set. And the nearest threader place is 10 miles...

You think it is worth trying this HF set?
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=30027

[Al Willits]

Working in the field I use the Ridgid line of threaders, another one of those get good equip for what your gonna do.
You might be able to buy the holder and just the pipe size threader you need, make sure to deburr the inside lip of the pipe and use plenty of thread cutting oil.
Use a good vise firmly anchored.

Check here if ya want.

http://www.ridgid.com/Tools/Manual-R...ders/index.htm

To bad ya weren't closer, you could borrow my set.

Al

[John Bush]

Hi Chris,
I have used both the manual type and the "official" power threader that I borrowed from a plumber friend for a weekend. If you have a lot of cutting and threading, the power unit is the way to go, as a rental. If you are not in too big of a hurry and anticipate needing to thread the occasional pipe in the future, it would be good to have the manual kit in our arsenal. You may want to consider getting a pipe vise so you won't distort the pipe in a flat jawed bench vise, and a cut-off tool as well. The $25 HF kit seems like a good deal. Good luck, JCB.

[Al Willits]

imho I'd forgo the cut off tool unless there really cheap, a hacksaw will do just fine.
Get the 4 wheel cutter if your gonna that route.

A power vise might be a good idea if there's lots to cut, be careful though, and lots of lube.
All depends on how much piping your gonna do, and how much ya wanna spend.

Al

[Joe Chritz]

It will work but using copper would most likely pay for itself in the aggravation of having to thread all that pipe.

When a Ridgid machine is within walking distance, black iron is a piece of cake. Well, almost anyway.

I haven't priced the difference in some time so we may be talking about a substantial chunk of money.

Joe

[John Bush]

I used the Rigid power drive machine and it was fun, but could be dangerous with all the torque it has. The ratcheting threaders would be OK, but sweating copper is much easier. JCB.

[Alan Tolchinsky]

I've done black pipe threading manually and it's a lot of work. I put in a few gas lines for a heater, gas grill , etc. and the threading really takes some time and muscle. On the other hand I've done a lot of copper pipe sweating over the years and that's so easy to cut, solder, etc. I know copper is expensive these days so you have to ask yourself what's your time worth.

[glenn bradley]

The HD near me rents this type of thing. I have had no luck with HF threading taps or dies; too inaccurate as to thread spacing, etc. I'd rent if possible.

[Howard Acheson]

Most rental equipment stores will rent pipe threaders and clamps.

[Mike Seals]

How many joints do you need to make? I prefer the copper route to the black iron, just for the rust issue, that is unless you have a "real" air drier that can remove the moisture.

What's the overall plan?

[Frank Chaffee]

Chris, you might consider that on the scale of a basement shop you could run the majority of your black piping with lengths that come off the shelf. The relatively few (?) pieces that would need to be cut to odd lengths and threaded could be done fairly cheaply by the supplier (BORG or hardware store).

Just another thought to consider…

[Chris Jenkins]

Copper may be the winning battle here. I haven't priced it much yet either. I did notice 10' of 1/2" :

Black Pipe = ~$9
Type L Copper = ~$13
Type M Copper = ~9

Type L is the what most people reccomend right?

[Frank Chaffee]

Copper is good.
Yes, Type L.

You’ve probably researched this Chris, but I’ll still add… Slope to drain, take all drops off the top of the pipe, etc. Lots of info on this here and at FWW too.

[Chris Jenkins]

Frank,

I was looking at the Menards by me and they sell about 4 different lengths. I made a trip to the HD on my lunch break today at my work and they sell like 8 different lengths. You may be correct with this one. I need to do measuring and quanity counts before I even start this project, so maybe I can buy the pre-fab lengths and be fine.

Can anyone tell me the diff between Type L and Type M, as I do not spend much time doing copper now that the new place has CPVC.

[Chuck Reeves]

Would using schedule 40 PVC be out of the question. 3/4" is rated to 480psi and is $1.62 per 10' stick. Gluing is easy. No new tools needed. Wait that may be a bad thing!