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Thread: Project: Router Station For Sliding Table Saw

  1. #1
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    Project: Router Station For Sliding Table Saw

    Ok, I could have bought a saw/shaper combo. But the fact of the matter was that the extra cost was well beyond what I had saved for the sliding saw. I've been happy with a hefty router for the kind of things I do, anyway. But I also have been refining "space utilization" in my shop for a long time. What to do? Hmm...how about adding the router/shaper function to the slider? So I did. (And there are 40 pictures to follow to prove it...)

    Admittedly, I put a few dollars into this project, but thanks to a great deal from Amazon and a little bit back from selling my other router table, it wasn't all that bad. (A really good expense check helped out a lot, too... ...48.5 center per mile pays off when you drive a hybrid) For this project, I opted to use the "most excellent" cast iron router top system from Bench Dog as well as their cast iron lift. A Bench Dog switch was also incorporated into the mix. My existing PC 7518 would move from the old table to this setup upon completion. Everything else used was scrap or inventory material already in the shop.

    We begin by unpacking the cast iron top and removing the cosmoline that protected it through shipping. The packaging was excellent. As you can see, the basic cast iron wing/table is just a little bit smaller than the factory outfeed table on the Mini Max S315 WS sliding table saw. Once the 4" extension is added to the "back", it gets closer in size. Any remaining difference really isn't all that material, IMHO.

    rs-1.jpg

    The bottom of the table also needed cleaning, so that happened at the bench and then I proceeded to measure for a box/cabinet to house the lift and router for noise and dust control. Measuring directly from the top insured that the cabinet would be easily mountable to the existing tapped holes.

    rs-2.jpg

    After cutting what would be the "top" of the cabinet and removing material where the lift would drop down, I carefully laid out where the bolt holes would need to go.

    rs-3.jpg

    A quick test fit with the 1/4" bolts insured that things would work out later. It needed to be snug enough not to be sloppy, but have just enough play that the cabinet could be easily mounted and bound to the top once "hand clearance" was reduced by the cabinet sides, etc.

    rs-4.jpg

    A few quick cuts at the saw for the three fixed cabinet sides were made using scrap 1/2" birch plywood from the rack.

    rs-5.jpg
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #2
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    This was a quick "glue and brad" assembly deal and at this point we have a box with a top and three sides.

    rs-6.jpg

    The front (which points to the back.... ) needs a door for maintenance as well as a place to mount a dust collection fitting to feed the fence. Unlike my previous router table, I will have to use a hose rather than just a hole in the table top for the fence pickup. The door and side panel were made from scrap 3/4" poplar and pocket screws used to assemble the door.

    rs-7.jpg

    It's always good to check things out...so I did another test fit on the cast iron top using the bolts.

    rs-8.jpg

    I removed the factory outfeed table...and you can see where the router station will be going. (Thanks to Robert Tarr for assistance on this as the outfeed table is steel and too heavy to one-hand while dealing with the bolts) I also had to eliminate the nice $24 120mm-5" adapter on the saw's dust port as it was going to cause interference with the router cabinet hanging down from the router station top...a "bunch" of wraps with cloth tape took care of adapting the 5" hose to the slightly smaller 120mm port.

    rs-9.jpg

    The end of the router top that would abut the saw's own cast iron top need to receive a piece of aluminum angle. I used a marking gage to, well...mark...the proper position that would mate with the bottom of the Bench Dog top, leaving just a proverbial space for careful shimming.

    rs-10.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 9:46 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    The angle was fastened to the saw using self-tapping screws into holes I drilled for the purpose.

    rs-11.jpg

    Now, I had to carefully consider how to support the other end of the router station. With a "normal" saw, a couple of legs would have been just peachy and they could almost go anywhere. Not so with a slider...the outrigger for the big panel-cutting sled extends and moves behind the saw a little bit as you move through a full cut. Here, I taped a simple stick on the end of the outrigger after mounting the panel sled to the slider so I could map out its travel.

    rs-12.jpg

    The pencil was nice, but in order to make sure that there was no doubt in my mind, I used some painter's tape to re-mark the "horseshoe" of travel...and a bit outside of the line of travel for good measure.

    rs-13.jpg

    At that point, I did a test mount of the table using a portable stand to hold up the assembly...I wanted to visualize where the leg would go on the back side (toward the wall) and think about how to support the front side. (closest to the slider)

    rs-14.jpg

    This was also the time to shim the table level with the saw top--I used foil tape so I could slowly build things up. Any bump here would be detrimental to using both the saw and the router station.

    rs-15.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 9:55 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    Ok, this next part was a little scary, but frankly, the top needed to be able to be screwed to the aluminum angle. For that, I had to drill and countersink holes in the cast iron. Easy job, but measure three times and drill once!

    rs-16.jpg

    At this point, we're actually jumping ahead in time. The 4" top extension and lift were delayed in shipping from Amazon, but business travel and other things caused that to be a non-issue. When they arrived and I got back in the shop, it was time to bolt the extension to the top. I did that on the bench, but later had to tweak the alignment once the whole thing was temporarily remounted on the saw as I built the leg and support structure.

    rs-17.jpg

    With the top assembly (sans cabinet) temporarily back on the saw, it was time to fit the back leg. This required a little patience as the whole thing needed to be coplanar with the saw's table and be "ever so slightly lower" than the sliding wagon so stock clamped to the slider wouldn't hang on the top. This also was to test for both the leg position and size.

    rs-18.jpg

    As you can see, I chose a beefy leg. It's about 1.75" thick and 4" wide. Poplar. I think it will be quite capable of its job!

    rs-19.jpg

    After re-assembling the cabinet to the bottom of the top, I carefully sized and measured a cross piece that would support the bottom edge of the cabinet by resting on the top of the outrigger "hinge" and tying into the leg at the rear. A small piece of aluminum angle scrap would serve to hold it to the saw.

    rs-20.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 10:05 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
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    At this point it was critical to check the slider again for smooth action without any hang-up on the router top. Honestly, I did need to make a very slight adjustment to the cross piece sizing to make that happen.

    rs-21.jpg

    The structure being complete, I moved on to mounting the switch in a convenient place below the slider at the end of the saw...it's actually in about the same position I'm used to from my old router table. Here the simple bracket is installed--again, using self-tapping screws in two drilled holes.

    rs-22.jpg

    The Bench Dog switch is a really nice design as it allows a lot of mounting flexibility. I chose to mount it from the bottom. A hex nut is slipped into the bottom track (there is one on the top; one on the bottom and two on each side of the switch) and then a hex-key bolt and lock washer are used to keep things tightly in place.

    rs-23.jpg

    This cast iron top system uses Allen screws as "levelers" for the router mounting plate or lift system. Here, I'm installing them after applying some thread sealant to help lock them in place after adjustment. They also get lock nuts not shown here.

    rs-24.jpg

    A few minutes of play resulted in the heavy Bench Dog lift system being about as level to the cast iron top as I could make it.

    rs-25.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 10:12 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    The next step was to assemble the ProFence that comes with the cast iron table system. I also installed the 2.5" fitting on the cabinet to accommodate the hose to the fence pickup. Here are things from the "back".

    rs-26.jpg

    And the same point from the front. Please note that I can actually work on either side of the table if I need to. The top has an additional set of slots for the fence on the "front" side so it's easy to reverse. I can even turn the lift around very quickly if I need the height adjustment handy in the reverse orientation. (Of course, I do need to be sure not to knock myself silly on that sloping underside of the stairway...DAMHIKT! Rob Bodenschatz also has an appreciation of that after his visit today... )

    rs-27.jpg

    Installing the router in the lift came next. It's a relatively easy process. Man, this thing is heavy...and when you add the router...wow!

    rs-28.jpg

    The 4" dust port was installed on the end of the cabinet...I had this piece in a bin upstairs for quite a few years and was happy to remember it was there before I hauled off and order one from somewhere! A hole already existed for the router cord, so I made a small cover to seal things up. Having the connection to the switch assembly outside of the cabinet means I can easily unplug the router without walking all the way around the slider to get to the wall outlet that is supplying the power.

    rs-29.jpg

    Given I was done futzing around with the top, it was time for a final cleaning and a good wax job.

    rs-30.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 10:22 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
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    Blue isn't my favorite color, especially on walls. I'm OK with deep blue, however, and felt that this router station would look nice in navy blue to somewhat match the dark blue trimming on the saw. So that's what I used.

    rs-31.jpg rs-32.jpg

    While the paint was drying, I busied myself with some other preparations. The Bench Dog lift comes with three VERY heavy insert rings. Like the lift in the table, each has leveling screws. The first step is to apply the thread sealer to insure that once adjusted, they stay that way.

    rs-33.jpg

    And then the Allen screws go in...

    rs-34.jpg

    Finally, each ring is put in place and jacked to level. This requires a little finessing as like the life, there are also two screws that hold it in place when in use...very heavy duty and very stable.

    rs-35.jpg
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 10:31 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    As you can see, this lift system really has a clean, no-nonsense design. It's pure heavy duty...very shaper-like.

    rs-36.jpg

    And oh, my...real "above the table" bit changes with this setup! My bent wrenches may get retired...

    rs-37.jpg

    Of course, I had to test the dust collection and am very pleased with the air flow...it's really outstanding.

    rs-38.jpg

    There was a little space on the end of the cabinet that was convenient to keep the insert rings and a few other things handy.

    rs-39.jpg

    Well...this shop project is now officially done and ready to use. The picture sums up what the setup is for sawing with the router fence removed and just a clean surface in place. It also shows my old router table (sold today to Creeker Rob B) in the position that another planned shop project will slip into...a mobile tool cabinet for all my hand tools, router cutters, etc. But that's a story for a future thread...right now, it's just a gleam in my tired eyes.

    rs-40.jpg

    ---
    A final word about the Bench Dog products I used for this project: Outstanding.
    Last edited by Jim Becker; 03-20-2007 at 10:40 PM.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  9. #9
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    Wow Jim. I marvel at your detailed, illustrated descriptions. What a great job!

    Thank you for all you do around here. You have been especially friendly and helpful to me as I try to get acquainted to the "modern" equipment and tools as well as techniques. I'm amazed at your knowledge and willingness to help others.

    Questions --
    1. Is a cast iron router table worth the extra cost?
    2. What are the advantages of a cast iron table top?
    Don Bullock
    Woebgon Bassets
    AKC Championss

    The man who makes no mistakes does not usually make anything.
    -- Edward John Phelps

  10. #10
    Excellent Jim. That is a top notch set up. How do you like the fence? I like my pro fence alot. You may not use it but the edge jointing feature is nice. I don't however care much for the bench dog switch, little button etc. I opted for another. Congrats on another great piece of equipment.

    Corey

  11. #11
    Wow, that's a very nice setup and it looks like many an exacting measurement was needed. It looks factory in the pics....

  12. #12
    Nice job Jim, great execution and use of wasted space. Looks like it came from the factory with it

  13. #13
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    Looks good, Jim.

    I was a little puzzled as to why you were mounting the power switch onto the end of your slider, rather than into the box of the router table. But that was because I thought you were planning to use it from the "back". I think I understand that you plan to use it while standing in front of the track of the slider? But then, it seems like you'd have to lean a fair bit over the slider carriage to get at things. Standing on the opposite side results in a bonked head under the stairs, and standing on the side with the DC port would mean tripping over the DC hose. Okay, maybe I don't quite get it. Just what is the intended working position of the operator?
    "It's Not About You."

  14. #14
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    This post is better than a magazine. Thanks!
    -Jeff

  15. #15
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    Hey! That looks familiar!

    I was able to check out the new router/shaper setup in Jim's shop yesterday. It really is great. The router enclosure looks like it is just part of the saw. In fact, when I walked into his shop, I thought it was. Great choice on the blue. The bench dog router top & lift is REALLY solid as well.

    You definitely made the right choice in replacing your router table with this option.

    Great description of the process. Thanks Jim.

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