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Thread: Finish on Shop Furniture and Jigs

  1. #1
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    Finish on Shop Furniture and Jigs

    What do people finish their shop storage and jigs with? I have been building a storage chest under my workbench out of BB and Maple veneer plywood. On a RAS cabinet I used a polyurethane, the fumes of which were strong in the house for at least a couple days. Is there something that would have less solvent off gassing? I am looking for a clear finish.

    Thanks,

    Mike

  2. #2
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    This will be moved to the finish forum soon but here goes...

    Anything waterbased or shellac is what you need.

    I normally finish drawers with zinseer shellac cut to 2#. Cabinet parts and anything with a clear hard finish gets Target USL waterbased.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

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  3. #3
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    I'm with Joe. Shellac is goof proof and inexpensive and easily repaired / repeated.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    Ditto. Shellac is inexpensive, easy to use, fast drying, repairable, and looks good to boot. Plus, the wax content (if it's not dewaxed) makes for smoothly sliding jig parts.


  5. #5
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    just one question. why does shop storage and jigs need to be finished? I may be nieve here, but It is just shop storage and equipment right??

  6. #6
    Nothing at all for jigs. The idea of a jig is to make the work go faster. Delaying the process for hours or days to make the jig look pretty doesn't make much sense to me. If a surface needs to be slippery, I'll put some paste wax on it, but that's it.

    If it's a storage cabinet, shellac or a waterbased finish will give you some protection from spills and such without stinking up the house.

    Bob Lang

  7. #7
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    Nothing or BLO or BLO/Shellac.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  8. #8
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    What is BLO?

    Thanks,

    Mike

  9. #9
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    If it needs a finish, it'll probably get whatever I have on hand and that might be paint of a light color. To me it's the old form vs function debate and in a shop environment function wins -- who cares about pretty or form

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Michael Lutz
    What is BLO?

    Thanks,

    Mike
    Boiled linseed oil

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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Wagner
    just one question. why does shop storage and jigs need to be finished? I may be nieve here, but It is just shop storage and equipment right??
    For me, if it's a quick one-time jig, no finish unless there is a reason like glue release. Others that get repeated use or shop storage, shellac takes nearly zero time, reduces splinters, and does not accumulate dust--easier to keep clean.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Wagner
    just one question. why does shop storage and jigs need to be finished? I may be nieve here, but It is just shop storage and equipment right??
    Anything made of wood will last longer and be stabler if it is sealed with a finish. Temperature and humidity levels change radically over the seasons in my neck of the woods, so the minimal effort it takes to slap on a coat of shellac (usually in the evening before leaving the shop, so no time lost) seems worthwhile to me.
    As far as being 'just a shop', I don't see any benefit in having an ugly, strickly utilitarian workspace. Form never trumps function, but I place a lot of value in having an inspiring and attactive environment to work in. To each his/her own.


  13. #13
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    Nov 2006
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    Hello Mike,
    I use MinWax water poly for a clear coay. It's fairly tough, easy cleanup and the Lowes right down the street carries it.
    I've made it my standard clear finish kind of by accident.
    I had 3 or 4 small cans of it laying around so i oured them off into a larger can. Now when I need a clear for something, I pick up a can at Lowes and what I don't use, I pour into the "slop bucket".

    The other thing I use is mistinted paint from the same Lowes. Again, I have a "slop bucket" that I pour most leftover latex into. I also have a can of almost black dark gray.
    Most of the nasty mistints are pretty dark colored. By mixing it all together and addding some of the very dark gray, I end up with a pretty consistant "utility gray" for around the shop.

    I was reminded this past Friday that uncoated wood can warp. My circular saw board - painted yellow - could double for one of the McDonalds golden arches.

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