Money To Burn, HELP I need to move quick! Before LOML wakes UP!

[Clint Winterhalter]

Well tonight at dinner, my wife asked me a question that almost had me fall to the floor. So are you still buying a new table saw? I told her in late 2006 that I planned to buy a new saw (that was before some major home repair issues, followed by a new home build computer.) I had pretty much decided that my CMan saw was going to last another year. Like they say, strike while the iron is HOT! When she asked the Saw question, I smiled and said I was just waiting for the weather to break! I figure I can spend arround $1K. What should I buy? Power isn't a problem. So do I Delta? Steel City? Powermatic? ETC. Should I do the Amazon dance or go local. I need some advice... I've got to move QUICK, before she wakes up!
Thanks..
Clint

[Jim Becker]

"Around a grand" gets you darn close to a Grizzly 1023SL cabinet saw...but if that doesn't work for you, one of the very nice hybrids could be just the ticket for your "about a grand."

[Clint Winterhalter]

Thanks Jim. I can swing a grizzly. I've put it on my short list. Thanks for the reminder!..

Clint

[Paul Douglass]

Steel City has some rebates until 3/31. Make some of there saws close to $1k I got the 35618 deluxe for 1599-150 = 1449.

[Don Bullock]

Clint, if she's in the giving mood why just stop at $1000?

Where to buy that depends on what you want. As for Amazon, I have made some good buys through them, but they do not always have the lowest price. The brands available there are also very limited. Amazon is best when they offer free shipping. Another plus for them over buying locally is no sales tax. Buying locally can have its advantages. You may have more choices, depending on where you live. You also have the support of a local dealer. Most of the time there is no shipping charge from a local dealer as well. Personally I like being able to see what I'm buying which is something that I couldn't do with Amazon.

If I wasn't set to buy a SawStop, I'd be looking at the Steel City line up. I've seen one of their models (35610 -- not their lowest price saw) selling right at $1,000 at http://electrictool.net/store/produc...products_id=65 at Electrical Tool & Equipment in Ohio. Here is the link to all the Steel City dealers in Ohio: http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/di...statesearch2=0 . Maybe one of them has a good deal on a Steel City saw. Remember the rebate ends March 31st.

[Clint Winterhalter]

Sawstop would be my first choice. If I could get someone else to payfor it!
I agree, Steel City is tempting. I plan to kick tires with these guys soon.

Thanks for the advice...

Clint

[Don Bullock]

I just discovered that we're getting about $4,000 back from Uncle Sam. Yes, that was after the decision to buy the SawStop, but that money will still pay the bill. The LOML is very happy!!!

[Ray Phillips]

I was going through the same decision making process a few months ago. I found this forum and enjoyed and appreciated all the opinions and good information I received. I made the decision to purchase the Grizzly 1023SL. I called the only Steel City dealer in Oklahoma and they could not tell me anything about the saw. Maybe it was just the wrong person who answered the phone. So much for buying local from dealer. In order to get the heavy trunions in the Steel City I would have had to order a different model and that would have cost approximately $500.00 more than the Griz. I am very happy with the 1023. It was pretty much ready to use out of the crate. It has no vibration. From what I read you will probably be happy with either the Grizzly or Steel City. I am very happy with my Grizzly.

[Rob Russell]

Sawstop would be my first choice. If I could get someone else to payfor it!

If that's your first choice, why not talk with the LOYL and see what ideas she has about finding the $$$ to get the Sawstop?

[John Piwaron]

Clint,

I recently got a General hybrid TS. I'm completely satisfied with it.

Is it a full on cabinet saw? No, but IMO it's got 90% of the features for a reasonable amount of money. And I got a biesemeyer clone fence on it.

[Don Bullock]

Sawstop would be my first choice. If I could get someone else to payfor it!
...
Clint

If that's your first choice, why not talk with the LOYL and see what ideas she has about finding the $$$ to get the Sawstop?

Clint, I agree with Rob. The LOML is very supportive of my decision to buy a SawStop. She's has helped me in the shop and has seen me wrestle with trying to get a straight cut with my old Craftsman table saw. She realized that it shouldn't be that hard to cut a piece of wood. One afternoon I showed her some of the videos from the SawStop site. We decided together that since it's a fantastic saw for the type of work I plan to do even without the safety features, but when she saw the safety features in action she told me to get one. We figured out the $$$ later. Yes, there are many here and elsewhere who don't agree. They say that they always use a blade guard etc., or they don't like the politicing of the inventor, but I've also seen posts where some of them have had accidents and regretted not buying one. Why should I risk my fingers just because there are some out there who don't like how the inventor tried to sell his invention? At my age (turned 60 last Saturday) my reflexes are not what they used to be. As a hobbiest, I'm not as skilled or experienced in the use of a table saw as many here are. I've worked hard all these years and as I get close to retirement I feel that I deserve the best. No one seems to think that the SawStop isn't a "top notch" cabinet saw. I know I'll get some flack for this, but I feel that the extra money for the safety features is a "cheap" insurance policy.

Only you and your wife can decide how much money you can afford to spend and what's best for you. No matter what you decide I wish you the best with your decision. There are many out there to choose from. I know you'll enjoy whatever saw you buy.

[Ryan Myers]

I too have the Grizzly 1023SL and am a very happy camper. My FIL has a X5 Delta Unisaw that I have used a few times. I will put my saw up against it any time, in terms of function and finish. I don't believe there is anything that his saw can do that mine can't. I originally was going to go with the Unisaw myself, but decided to use the money saved towards another equipment purchase.

There is no vibration and it purrs like a kitten when it runs. Truly a good saw for the money.

[brian lanning]

They say that they always use a blade guard etc., or they don't like the politicing of the inventor, but I've also seen posts where some of them have had accidents and regretted not buying one. Why should I risk my fingers just because there are some out there who don't like how the inventor tried to sell his invention?

I fear kickback more than cutting my fingers off by about 10 to 1. And the sawstop's main feature won't help with kickback. Although it's other safety features are first rate and will help with kickback. But then again, a lot of good saws have the same anti-kickback features for a lot less money. Don't aquire a false sense of security.

Still, if money were no object I'd have the sawstop. So if you can swing it, go for it.

brian

[CPeter James]

A friend just picked up a Steel city full cabinet saw for under $1000. Check it out. Nice machine.

CPeter

[glenn bradley]

In another thread which I wasn't able to find, a member discussed the Steel City fence and how it was made. This definitly places it in the 'better than Bies' catagory. I love my Bies but the improvements discussed would sure be welcome on it (fence faces machined after assembly and such). I'd give the Steel City folks a look. Now, if you had double the money the PM 2000 is quite a nice saw.