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Thread: Tacky Finish issue

  1. #1

    Tacky Finish issue

    I built a washboard from oak and finished it with minwax oil based stain and boiled linseed. the 2nd coat of linseed remain tacky and its been over a month. Sugestions?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    Did you completely wipe all the excess stain?

    Did you wipe the BLO dry on the surface?

    On another point, is this going to be real, working washboard?
    Howie.........

  3. #3
    You must have been posting as I messaged you. I didn't have excess stain. That part is fine. The BLO 2nd coat may have been a bit thick in places but not overly excessive. I didn't wipe it down "dry" however. I put it on with a rag and left it to dry. This is probably my problem. This isn't going to be used as a washboard and the term may not be right. This is a small stand with a drawer and 2 doors below it. I didn't put a towel rack on it and it's shaker style.

    I appreciate the input.

    David

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by David Watkins
    I built a washboard from oak and finished it with minwax oil based stain and boiled linseed. the 2nd coat of linseed remain tacky and its been over a month. Sugestions?
    Remove it with laquer thinner and start over ??

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    3,147
    Quote Originally Posted by David Watkins
    You must have been posting as I messaged you. I didn't have excess stain. That part is fine. The BLO 2nd coat may have been a bit thick in places but not overly excessive. I didn't wipe it down "dry" however. I put it on with a rag and left it to dry. This is probably my problem. This isn't going to be used as a washboard and the term may not be right. This is a small stand with a drawer and 2 doors below it. I didn't put a towel rack on it and it's shaker style.

    I appreciate the input.

    David
    You can rub the surface down with mineral sprits applied with 3/0 steel wool. Then wipe it dry with lots of paper towels.


    Now, boiled linseed oil is not a finish, it's more of a treatment to "pop" the grain or figure in wood. It provides no water or watervapor resistance and has no abrasion resistance. It requires frequent reapplication to maintain any type of positive appearence.

    If you want to use something that will give you more long term protection but still maintain the look and feel of the wood, use an oil/varnish mixture. You can either buy Minwax Tung Oil Finish or make your own. To make your own, mix equal parts of boiled linseed oil, your favorite varnish or poly varnish and mineral spirits. Apply a wet coat, let is set and soak in for 15-30 minutes and then wipe it dry. Let it dry overnight and do it again. The varnish component in this finish will give you some minimal water protection, some abrasion resistance and will last much longer than boiled linseed oil.
    Howie.........

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Lilburn, GA
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    413
    Watco Danish Oil finish is pricey but reliable and long-lasting. Follow the directions on the can.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Southport, NC
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    3,147
    Quote Originally Posted by Jules Dominguez
    Watco Danish Oil finish is pricey but reliable and long-lasting.
    Watco is an oil/varnish mixture similar to what I describe above. In fact, it contains less varnish and more linseed oil so it has less long term protection than the homebrew I favor. Of course, the homebrew is a lot less expensive.
    Howie.........

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