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Thread: Finished Oak DR table pics

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Seattle area , Duvall
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    Finished Oak DR table pics

    Hi, this is the table I have been working on. Its 36x80 by 1.5 white oak rift sawn. The apron is held together by stop dadoes and pocket screws and corner blocks. Plus the brace in the middle.
    Id say the top weighs between 140-170lbs. The legs an apron probaly weigh 65.
    Im concerned with fastening the top. I have had this conversation before with the board, but now I cant use table top fasteners due to not being able to get a saw kerf into the apron. I cant because 3 screws snapped off inside the leg and apron.I was just test fitting.
    So is it okay to just pocket screw 1.25 inches screws in every 8 inches or so from underneath. Will this suffice the weight an be okay with wood movement?
    The wood supply was stored indoors in the rough and it was 9-13% wet.It sat in my garage for 5 days on sticks. Then it was milled and sat for two more id say. Seems dry to me.

    Thanks for looking


    FYI I passed all the wood through a ridgid planer worked fine.Was 17/8 to 2" thick now 1.5.Had very new blades.Only the auto feed caused problems.Its very weak wont pull that stuff through at all.
    I jointed an faced all wood with my new 8" griz.Worked fine, no stuttering there.
    Ridgid TS worked well.Not like it wasnt hurting ripping the long stuff though.





    A Table 001.jpg

    A Table 002.jpg

    A Table 013.jpg
    Last edited by Craig D Peltier; 04-04-2007 at 7:06 PM. Reason: update

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Craig, that's a really nice table design! Bravo on your hard work! Keep the pictures coming...

    As to getting a slot in the aprons for using connectors that provide for movement in the top...use a biscuit joiner.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Seattle area , Duvall
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    Good idea!!! Do you think the pocket holes are a bad idea?

    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker
    Craig, that's a really nice table design! Bravo on your hard work! Keep the pictures coming...

    As to getting a slot in the aprons for using connectors that provide for movement in the top...use a biscuit joiner.

  4. #4
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    Nov 2006
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    Thanks

    Biscuit jointer for a kerf worked great.Very easy too.

    Underside oak table 002.jpg

    Underside oak table 003.jpg

    Underside oak table 004.jpg

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    State Capital, WI
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    Craig,

    Looks great. My dad and I have been working on a similiar table for the last few months, but built of 8/4 white quarter sawn oak top and aprons with 5-inch square legs. Almost identical dimensions. I don't think that two men could pick ours up when asembled. It took a fair amount of effort just to get the top onto the legs!

    Are your aprons mortised into the legs? Or just the pocket screws and the angle braces?

    How are you going to finish it?

    We saw a similiar table at Crate and Barrel that we modeled ours after. come to find out now that the legs on the C&B table have about a 3" dia hole drilled in them to lighten the load! the legs themselves seem to weigh 50 pounds each!

    - Rob
    oops ....1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 - yup all there, whew!

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    'Glad it worked out, Craig.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
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    Seattle area , Duvall
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    Its funny the client asked for this table, I happened to be looking at CanB catalog and saw it in there.She said she saw it at an exhibit for 20k.
    Anyways my wood was 8/4 rift sawn white oak 12 foot. Legs are 3.5 x 3.5 I figure they weigh 20lbs each I guess. I couldnt get top on myself I had to wait for my fiance to come home.
    The legs are stop dadoed in 3/4 inch and then rounded corners chiseled square.All thats left is getting the top to look nice.I had to use 2 7/8 aprons due to clients chairs have arms an are 25" tall. So after apron an top I only have 1/2inch clearance.
    Your table has alot of BF in it must been expensive! This one I think had 87 BF.

    The client hasnt figured out what finish yet, but milky stain on the darker side like a few oreos have been dipped in it

    Thanks for looking.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Wright
    Craig,

    Looks great. My dad and I have been working on a similiar table for the last few months, but built of 8/4 white quarter sawn oak top and aprons with 5-inch square legs. Almost identical dimensions. I don't think that two men could pick ours up when asembled. It took a fair amount of effort just to get the top onto the legs!

    Are your aprons mortised into the legs? Or just the pocket screws and the angle braces?

    How are you going to finish it?

    We saw a similiar table at Crate and Barrel that we modeled ours after. come to find out now that the legs on the C&B table have about a 3" dia hole drilled in them to lighten the load! the legs themselves seem to weigh 50 pounds each!

    - Rob

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
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    Finished

    This is done.Belt sanded the top and some hand sand. 120 grit. Looks smooth an even.
    Thanks for everyones help on the board. This board is great.

    PS Had to gloat the new jointer too. Shes camera shy, this is her first picture.

    Craig

    Oak Table done 009.jpg

    Oak Table done 002.jpg

    Table day one 004.jpg

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Craig...great work! That's a table to be proud of. And welcome to the new jointer!!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. Nice Table.

  11. #11
    Craig, great looking table. I really like the design, but I think my kids would too. That is to say, I think they would use the leg detail to store food like little chipmunks . Seriously, I love the table a lot. Very nice design.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Wimberley, Texas
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    Craig, the problem, if I understand it correctly, is the table would not be able to expand or contract due to the aprons being affixed to the legs. What if the aprons were NOT attached to the legs--in fact, moved inward a few inches and secured with expansion slots to allow the top to move? (I'm thinking of braces such as you might use on the underside of a large chest. See photo below.)

    The legs themselves will only experience a very small amount of movement cross-grain, but just to make sure couldn't the legs be secured only on the long grain side to accommodate that small cross-grain movement?
    Attached Images Attached Images

  13. #13
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bert Johansen View Post
    Craig, the problem, if I understand it correctly, is the table would not be able to expand or contract due to the aprons being affixed to the legs. What if the aprons were NOT attached to the legs--in fact, moved inward a few inches and secured with expansion slots to allow the top to move? (I'm thinking of braces such as you might use on the underside of a large chest. See photo below.)

    The legs themselves will only experience a very small amount of movement cross-grain, but just to make sure couldn't the legs be secured only on the long grain side to accommodate that small cross-grain movement?
    Good points about the apron being set apart from rest of table.
    As far as legs only being attached on long grain side that might not work. Due to weight of table an pulling on it to open up the leaf system. Alot of strain on it.
    Im still trying to decide which way to go. The client says if there needs to be a little gap that would be fine after all.

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Location
    Northeast Ohio
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    582
    Very nice table. I like the legs extending to the top. Nice jointer too!

  15. #15
    Craig,

    Cool table, love the expsed leg ends......

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