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Thread: Finished Oak DR table pics

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
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    2,103
    Quote Originally Posted by Ralph Okonieski View Post
    Very nice table. I like the legs extending to the top. Nice jointer too!
    Thanks, funny looking at the shop back then and it was only 9 months ago and its SO full now. I got rid of the ridgid TS and replaced it with 3hp jet exacta with 60 inch rails. That made a world of diff. The trailer is all beat up now ( 3 cars hit it already its too low for the SUVS I guess) , more dust etc. etc

  2. #17
    nice table - i really like the simplicity of the design - simple yet complex.
    great job.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    State Capital, WI
    Posts
    470
    Craig - we finished the one that my father and I was working on and have attached a few photos. The ended up very similar with the exception of the size of the legs and the method of attaching the aprons to the legs. I love being able to look down through the table top and see the aprons. I couldn't imagine spending $20k on this!

    - Rob
    Attached Images Attached Images
    oops ....1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8,9,10 - yup all there, whew!

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Milwaukee, WI
    Posts
    900
    Hey Craig, great table. My concern would be in the integrity of the joints...a 3/4" stub tenon in a stop dado, supported by the corner blocks that you have, considering the mass of that table...dunno. With no rails on the bottom, I think you may have issues with racking in the vertical plane. A full mortise and (long) tenon joint would have been a better choice me thinks. I would also suggest a biscuit connection on the corner blocks to apron. That end grain to face grain glue up will be weak. My two cents.

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
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    2,103
    Quote Originally Posted by Rob Wright View Post
    Craig - we finished the one that my father and I was working on and have attached a few photos. The ended up very similar with the exception of the size of the legs and the method of attaching the aprons to the legs. I love being able to look down through the table top and see the aprons. I couldn't imagine spending $20k on this!

    - Rob
    Came out just right!
    How didi you attach apron to legs? I se that corner block with that angled dado cut out of it, how didi you make that cut, tilted at angle with relief cuts in a chop saw?

    Im not sure if I posted in this post but im building another but with leafs, table out of ash. Will start in about 1.5 weeks. The table will be stained. Its for the sister in law of this table that I built.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
    Posts
    2,103
    Quote Originally Posted by George Bregar View Post
    Hey Craig, great table. My concern would be in the integrity of the joints...a 3/4" stub tenon in a stop dado, supported by the corner blocks that you have, considering the mass of that table...dunno. With no rails on the bottom, I think you may have issues with racking in the vertical plane. A full mortise and (long) tenon joint would have been a better choice me thinks. I would also suggest a biscuit connection on the corner blocks to apron. That end grain to face grain glue up will be weak. My two cents.
    Thanks for info,
    On the new one I think I will Mortise and Tenon it in and also put the metal corner brackets in. The apron will be 6/4 also. Hope this suffices for the pulling of in and out 2 times a year for the leafs.

    Thanks

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Fort Pierce, Florida
    Posts
    3,498
    The use of a bisquit jointer for slots is a good idea. Another option is to use a forstner bit to make a small rebate on the top of the skirt and then use figure-of-eight connectors. Either one allows for wood movement. Pocket holes from below probably would not unless you could widen the holes.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
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    2,103
    Quote Originally Posted by Thom Sturgill View Post
    The use of a bisquit jointer for slots is a good idea. Another option is to use a forstner bit to make a small rebate on the top of the skirt and then use figure-of-eight connectors. Either one allows for wood movement. Pocket holes from below probably would not unless you could widen the holes.
    Ive used both. i find the figure eights quicker to install.


  9. #25
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Seattle area , Duvall
    Posts
    2,103
    Quote Originally Posted by Glenwood Morris View Post
    My client is an interior designer.She had seen it at a gallery for I think 13k she said. I dont know the parameters of the table, size, wood etc.

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