Oak table ashy look needed

[Craig D Peltier]

Hello, I also pasted the Behlen wood grain filler post.Let me first say I put on the Behlen filler with a plastic spreader , bad idea, it spread out all over in differet shade an thickness.On the apron I tried a foam brush but its almost too gooey and it looked like i primered the surface for paint.

So the look I need is an ashy look, i cant have yellow of oak with poly on it. Any suggestions? Obviously im going to have to sand off the poly. Any other finishes that will give it an ashy dull look and not shiny an yellow?


THANKS

[Jim Becker]

Ash, while often having a similar grain and pore pattern than red oak, ash has a much lighter color. (White oak is sometimes closer, but still different) You could try bleaching and/or using a water borne finish (low color change), but oak and ash are two different looks when it comes to color unless you are making them dark with dye or stain.

[Craig D Peltier]

Ashy not the wood, like if you rubbed ash into it.So its kind of milky look.

Ash, while often having a similar grain and pore pattern than red oak, ash has a much lighter color. (White oak is sometimes closer, but still different) You could try bleaching and/or using a water borne finish (low color change), but oak and ash are two different looks when it comes to color unless you are making them dark with dye or stain.

[Jim Becker]

I think they used to call that "pickled"...look for a glaze that provides the effect.

[Nick Clayton]

Craig if you want to see one sample of bleached red oak check out my post here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...=556388&page=2

The picture in the link was invalid.
P1000929.JPG
two left samples are bleached. lightest one only has Hybrivar and the far left has 2lb shellac as a sealer then hybrivar.

[Craig D Peltier]

Thanks, Is 2lb shellac a brand name or the amount you used?
I used behlen wood grain filller.That stuff is not fun to work with.It dries in like -30 secondsa oastey white.So on a large tabletop you cant get any consistentsey, I tried rubber spreader, foam brush and a t shirt.Small pieces are okay.Just an FYI on my personal experience.
Theres just so much with finishing thats its overwhelming to learn.

Thanks

Craig if you want to see one sample of bleached red oak check out my post here.
http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...=556388&page=2

The picture in the link was invalid.
P1000929.JPG
two left samples are bleached. lightest one only has Hybrivar and the far left has 2lb shellac as a sealer then hybrivar.

[Steve Schoene]

The "2 lb. cut" is a reference to who much the shellac was thinned. Its basis is 2 lb. or dry shellac dissolved in 1 gallon of denatured alcohol. That is a moderately thin concentration that's pretty versatile. Liquid shellac comes in several "cuts", with 3 lb. cut being most widely available from the Zinsser company in either Amber or Clear. Those versions contain the natural shellac wax. A dewaxed version called Seal Coat is sold in 2 lb. cut concentration.

You can buy dry shellac and mix it your self. That ensures freshness, and opens up a wider range of natural shellac colors, in either dewaxed, or with wax.

[Nick Clayton]

Craig,

Steve explained it. I used Seal Coat from Zinsser http://www.zinsser.com/product_detail.asp?ProductID=72

It is both dewaxed and has a born on date so you know that you are getting fresh material. Again, like Steve mentioned you can always purchase the flakes (dewaxed) and dissolve them in denatured alcohol.