Shelf Supports

[Chris Jenkins]

Right now I am working on putting in some shelves in the master closet. These little shelves will be for holding shoes and other small items. See layout below. I'm using 1.5" W x 1/2" THK supports on three sides as seen below.

I have a tendency to over engineer things and was thinking of using two anchors per side, but that is really going to make a lot of work for me. So I'm thinking of relaxing a little on this project.

Since these shelves are only 20" L x 14" D you think I could get away with just shooting these supports with 1" staples into the corners? The way this works out the staples won't be hitting any studs, which is what worries me.

I was thinking of using construction adhesive in addition to the staples, but that will be a real mess if I take these shelves out or want to change the spacings. I'll prolly end up ruining the drywall if I try taking the supports off the wall.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking about 10 lbs max on these little shelves.

closet002.jpg

Thanks,

Chris

[Jim Becker]

"You" may be considering only 10 lbs on each of these shelves, but someone else may not be measuring the weight...

I'd use anchors to mount the supports if you can't get to any studs with fasteners.

[Andrew Williams]

Especially someone who decides to use the shelves as a ladder

[Chris Jenkins]

Good point on the ladder. I don't have any kids as of yet, but that isn't to say my wife wouldn't use the bottom shelf to get to something on a higher shelf. Guess I'm gonna just have to do this project the "right" way

[Robert Malone]

Chris, may I suggest a book shelf with adjustable shelves for spacing and IF you will even want to remove them later on.

[Ben Grunow]

You could use those adjustable shelving standards that have holes for the little support arms (different lengths available) and just put 3 screws in each...top, mid, bottom. Might be able to put one in each corner on the back wall and angle the screws slightly to catch the studs.

look here

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_ss_hi...shelf+standard

Ben

[Rob Blaustein]

I just put some shelves in a pantry in our kitchen using the same approach--cleats all around to support the shelves. The adjustable systems are nice, but I didn't have the time or energy to do that. I was able to find studs to attach the cleats to on each side of the closet, including the corners. I would think you'd be able to hit at least a few studs, and where you can't I'd agree that good drywall anchors will help. A good level helps--or a story stick--to ensure that your three cleats are level and even with eachother.

[Al Killian]

What abot building a shelving unit and slideing it into the space? This way you would not haave to worry about the shelf supports.

[Dave Falkenstein]

For spaces like yours, I install sheets of pre-drilled melamine, one on each wall - you can buy the melamine at Home Depot or Lowes. I use shelf pins for support and cut melamine shelves to fit the space. The shelves are just as strong as any other closet shelf, they are adjustable, they are good looking and they are quick to build. If you use this method be very careful to align the pin holes at the bottom so they match on the two walls and are level across the shelf span.

[Hal Flynt]

In answer to this:
"Since these shelves are only 20" L x 14" D you think I could get away with just shooting these supports with 1" staples into the corners? The way this works out the staples won't be hitting any studs, which is what worries me."

No, 1 inch staples won't be long enough, 2 1/2'” – 3” finishing should be long enough.

Your supports could be 1-1 1/4" wide with a single 2 1/2" or more nail at the studs and I think that would be fine. I have numerous Pantry shelves on furring strip supports that are nailed at each stud as described and span 7 feet and carry considerable weight.

The predrilled melamine is good too.

[Art Mulder]

"You" may be considering only 10 lbs on each of these shelves, but someone else may not be measuring the weight...

I agree with Jim on this. It's exactly what occurred to me.

I'd use anchors to mount the supports if you can't get to any studs with fasteners.

I would consider lengthening the shelf supports so that they reach right to the corner of the wall, so you can be sure of getting the stud at the corner. I know, a bit ugly having it extend past the shelf, but as you said, it's just for shoes in the closet. Or you could just make the shelves deeper to match.

[Scott Loven]

I would run long screws into the corner (Pocket hole?) if it were me. I have shelves in a number of closets that are nailed in the corner with 4-5 2.5" brads from an air gun. They have heald-up fine for 10 years.
Scott

[Chris Jenkins]

Thanks for all the suggestions. I originally was going to build a free standing case that would fit between the walls made out of the pre-drilled melamine, but then I figured why waste the money on materials for sides when I already have them (the walls that is), plus I already had the plywood for the shelf supports as well as the dry wall ancors.

I'm going to go with the drywall ancors, sure it is a bit more work, but I have all the materials and won't need to spend any extra money or time at the store.

[Chris Jenkins]

Just doing a quick follow-up. I finished this project last night (pics coming if you're good). Part of me regrets not building a case. Only cause the walls aren't square (as I suspected) so my square shelves look a bit shotty. The wife says who cares it's a closet and once you put things on the shelves you won't see the gap between the shelf ends and drywall.

If I would have built a whole case I could have just shot a piece of corner bead up and no would have seen the gaps... Hinds sight is 20/20...

I was starting to get pretty frustrated at the end cause each shelf had to be cut at least two times to get a "tight" fit. Don't know if you can call it tight when the walls are shapped like a parallelogram...

She just doesn't understand us WWers. Our type kind of get obsesed with a tight looking joint...

[Dave Falkenstein]

Chris - The problem with out-of-square and out-of-plumb walls in more typical than not. When using my earlier suggestion of two predrilled melamine panels, I usually wind up cutting each shelf to fit, and often must cut them out of square to look decent. Sometimes I make a cardboard template because the walls are so out of whack. Your wife is correct - they always are - it will look fine with stuff on the shelves.