Can someone recommend a saw set?

[Brian Hale]

Hi Guys!

I want to learn how to sharpen various saws, both rip and crosscut, but i've got no idea what saw set i should be using. Most likely i'll scour ebay for a used one.

Any suggestions?

TIA

brian

[Michael Fross]

Hello Brian. I'm looking forward to this discussion. I'm planning on trying my hand at saw making per the Norse woodsmith's amazing tutorial:

http://www.norsewoodsmith.com/ww/dovetail/bs-index.htm

I've been looking at saw sets from ebay and LV. The LV one looks interesting, but I'd like something that can go to 15tpi, not just 12.

The Stanley 42x Sawset looks to be a heavy favorite as it holds the blade before the anvil bends the teeth.

Regards,

Michael

[Clint Jones]

Sorry to but in but I have a new stanley 72 saw set I will sell for $25 it is new in the original box with instructions.

[Charles McKinley]

Yep Stanley 42 seems to be the favorite.

[Mark Stutz]

Clint,
Saw sharpening is one part of this slopeI've not yet startede. How does the 72 look/work compared to a 42 or 42X?

Mark

[Jim Mitchell]

You might want to check with Mike Wensloff (SP?) and sons. Those guys make some great saws. I have also bought saws from Daryl Weir ( Weir@GRICS.Net) Another thought for recommendations would be Chris Schwarz at Woodworking Magazine. Best of luck


Jim

[Tom Hamilton]

Hi Brian: You might want to peek at vintagesaws.com. Pete has written a couple of "how to" articles (posted on WoodCentral) and also sells the files necessary to complete the process. He also has instructions on his web site.

My research on this subject confirmed the 42X as the best of the bunch.

Tom, in Houston, with saw sharpening on his "to do" list.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

The blue one from either LV or Tools for Working Wood (same one, a Somax) will do 16 ppi without modification (same as a 42X) and smaller if modified. It works best on teeth from 10/11 ppi up.

The gold colored one, also a Somax, which you can get from Tools for Working Wood will do well on teeth say from 6 ppi to 12 ppi (with care).

Those are the ones I recommend to people all the time. They work well and are fairly inexpensive. They are remakes of the venerable Eclipse.

The text on LV's web site concerning the Somax is provided by the manufacturer. But it is wrong. The only difference, btw, between the blue and gold ones is the width of the strike pin--which is the doohickey which presses against the tooth.

I suspect these sets would last the average woodworker their lifetime.

Another good resource for sharpening is Pete Taran's Vintage Saws web site: http://www.vintagesaws.com/library/primer/sharp.html

I also recommend people begin sharpening a rip saw of preferable 7 ppi or less. A cross cut is fine as well, but look for one about 8 ppi (or less). The rip is best to start on because it is simply easier. There is less going on as regards the angles and the effects of the file. Another reason for using a full-sized handsaw for the first time sharpener like those mentioned is the steel is thicker and so it takes more effort, which means less can go wrong quickly.

Take care, Mike

[James Mittlefehldt]

I have a question that has been sort of bugging me as I may have been led astray in the past. I was told in a class on handtools that the reason most sets don't go beyond 12 ppi is that any saw finer than 12 does not require any set, I wondered about that at the time, perhaps Mike you might comment on that.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi James,

One could argue that a fine pitched, thin-bladed saw used to cut DTs or finger joints can get by without set. This is due to the shallowness of the cut. The reality is, it depends on the residual burr from sharpening. The instant that wears/breaks off on side vs. the other you are left with a drifting saw.

If one stones both sides to remove the burr completely, and uses pretty hard wood, then there will be a modicum of success. But the cutting goes much slower and requires more effort.

fwiw, there use to be saw sets which went higher. As well, the hammer and punch sets used traditionally one can go as high as one can see.

In general, I refuse to make a saw with higher than 16 ppi, and so setting isn't an issue. Higher pitched for a furniture maker is all but unnecessary. I have made some higher by request--have one in process right now that is to be 18 ppi iirc. But in nearly all respects for nearly anyone, this isn't required.

Take care, Mike
back to a flood of emails...

[James Carmichael]

Do a forum search or checkout woodnet. Bob Smalser posted an excellent tutorial on saw sharpening a couple years back.

[Brian Hale]

Thanks Guys!!

Lots of good information as usual!

I should be receiving a Stanley 42X in the next few days and i've got a bunch of old dull saws just waiting for attention.

Brian