What hand saws to buy?

[Jeffrey Larsen]

I have been jumping in over the past few days and know that I must be asking the same old questions that have been asked over and over; I know that often new folks ask the old questions and it can be quite irritating as I know from one of my other hobbies/forums.


Haveing said that, I am interested in purchasing some hand saws and would like to know what models and brands I would need to have a reasonably equipped shop (again, I do this as a hobby). At this point, I am hoping to buy quality old saws as compared to the new expensive ones--this looks like an area second to none for proceeding in this fashion--It blew my mind to see that a basic hand saw can run 100-150$! It appears, at least from my limitted perspective that you can get a good vintage saw shipped to your home for under 30$ in many cases. In the early stages of this hobby, I am looking to pretty much stick with hand tools and then gradually get into more power stuff. my emphasis is to take rough sawn lumber and turn it into something nice and smooth and square all by hand.... .


Advice on the saw question?


Thanks ! Jeff

[Ryan Cathey]

Disston and Atkins. Someone more knowledgable will be along to help you shortly.

[Brian Kent]

I'm glad you asked the question. I have used two Japanese hand saws so far - a dozuki and a Ryoba. The Rockler Dozuki was top rated and is $42.99. I think I got the Ryoba at Lee Valley, for about the same price. I would highly recommend this style saw.

Having said this, I am planning on buying a couple of western style saws in 2008. My plan would be to buy one new saw and several old ones, after finding out more about sharpening techniques.

I am looking forward to what others with experience have to say.

[Mike K Wenzloff]

Hi Jeff,

Any vintage saw from 1930 or so and back has virtually the same steel. Just look for ones which are nearly full height and have a good sound handle. Pass by ones which are rusty.

In general, you want longer and coarser saws for breaking down across the grain (cross cut saw) and with the grain (rip saw). As you get closer to working on final length/width pieces you would want finer pitched (more points per inch, PPI) and shorter saws.

Until you arrive at the joinery aspects, at which point generally one uses saws with brass or steel backs (back saws). For tenons think longer back saws with fewer PPI and for dovetails, a shorter saw with greater ppi.

For small open handle dovetail saws, look for British ones. They are more plentiful and do not in general command the prices as American ones and are arguably nicer saws from back before 1900.

You'll want to clean the saws of any scale and or rust and sharpen them. You may be lucky enough to find ones which are ready to go...but in general this will not be true.

Good luck. Mike

[James Carmichael]

Assuming you're not referring to joinery saws, old Disston D8s (or #8) are plentiful and inexpensive. The 12-series (#12, D12, & 112) were their premium line and the 16-series somewhere in between, so examples of either of the latter tend to be pricey. I personally think the steel in the 8s is just as good and prefer their lighter weight due to the scalloped spine.

From what I've seen, Atkins tend to bring higher prices and are reputed to have better steel. I believe the #68 & #400 are considered their top of the line. LOML scored me a nice Perfection at a garage sale recently for $1.50. I'd guess was probably made in the 1950s.

As much as I love my vintage western saws, my go-to handsaw is a Tashiro Zeta with a joint blade.