Selecting finish for cherry bed

[Landon Satterly]

Hello all. I am entering the process of finishing our new bed my wife and I had built. I have searched around the site to see what is the best finish for our needs. Considering the fact that we want a natural appearance to darken over time (NO stain) and for it to actually feel and look like real wood (satin finish, no gloss) it seems that BLO is the ticket. We don't want a yellowish appearance, so I am afraid to try a shellac over the BLO. We have a dachshund, so a very durable top coat would be ideal. I am looking for the solution for a natural, simple finish that will last.

and could you specify what the 'borg is?

Thanks in advance!

[Dave Sinkus]

Landon,
I like the bed frame and headboard a lot. I do not have the answer to your question, but I will be working on a cherry project and have the same requirements, except for the dachsund.

Also, I see 'BLO' referenced a lot, but don't know what the TLA (three Letter Acronym) stands for. I'm guessing something something Oil B____ L____ Oil. What is BLO?

Thanks for the help

[Nancy Laird]

Landon, first, welcome to the Creek!!!

Finish: lacquer, lacquer, lacquer. Spray with a coat of sanding sealer, quick go-over with 400 grit, then three coats of sprayed lacquer. You can get satin-finish lacquer. There are several advantages to lacquer--first, if it gets scratched, you just rough it up a little with steel wool and spritz it with a rattle can of the same lacquer. You'll never know where the scratch was. Second, your grain and color of the cherry will remain--and will age and darken naturally without any "outside" help.

A 'borg" is a "big ol' retail giant" - sometimes known as Lowe's, Home Depot, Menard's, etc. (started as "big orange", but has morphed into meaning any of the big-box stores).

Nancy

[Nancy Laird]

Also, I see 'BLO' referenced a lot, but don't know what the TLA (three Letter Acronym) stands for. I'm guessing something something Oil B____ L____ Oil. What is BLO?

Thanks for the help

BLO is Boiled Linseed Oil.

There's a list of acronyms here on the Creek - http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...light=acronyms
Nancy

[Dave Sinkus]

I see you also translated BORG.

[Landon Satterly]

What kind/brand of lacquer specifically is the best, from personal experience. I have used Minwax in the past and was wondering if a wipe on poly would be good. I have read on the boards here enough to know that Minwax is not really a preferred brand though. Thanks!

[Nancy Laird]

We use Behlen's Qualalacq, and spray. Poly isn't repairable like lacquer is, so damage would have to be repaired by stripping a piece and completely refinishing it.

Here's a link to a source: http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=848-754

Don't know where you live (you can put it in your profile), so don't know if your state is on the "list" where it can't be shipped, but gallons NOT AVAILABLE in AZ, CA, DC, DE, KY, MA, MD, ME, NY, NJ, PA and VA, and none is available in California.

Nancy

[Landon Satterly]

It figures, I'm in KY. Thanks again! I can spray it, but are there any non-spray alternatives?

[Nancy Laird]

Let me check with LOML - he's pretty knowledgable about this stuff. But, I will say that lacquer is usually better and gives a better finish sprayed rather than brushed. DAMHIKT!! The quarts can be shipped to KY, just not the gallons. Depending on where you are in Kentucky, (if you're in the eastern part), it might be worth a drive to Graham, NC, to be able to purchase it directly at the WWS retail store there. (It's in that strip along I-40 through Burlington, etc., where all the outlet stores are.)

Nancy

[Dave Sinkus]

Thanks for the informationNancy. Thanks for asking the question Landon.

I am assuming the lacquer is applied after the BLO? Kewl

[Larry Fox]

I agree with Nancy about the lacquer being the best option for you in terms of topcoats but I might opt for a WB one like Target USL as it is water-clear. If you are sure you are going to use BLO you might be well served by putting down a coat of extra-pale dewaxed shellac if you do go with a WB topcoat. Another option for you might be Waterlox or Watco natural.

With cherry, you have to be aware that it might exhibit some "splotches" when you apply the oil. Some don't mind it but I try to avoid it if I can.

[Nancy Laird]

With this lacquer, you don't really need anything else, although on our oak furniture we do use a natural stain to pop the grain, and you might want to do the same with the cherry. Moser's Natural is oil-based and we regularly use that, then the sanding sealer, then lacquer. Again, that can't be shipped in gallons to Kentucky , but I'm guessing that Moser's is available at places other than WWS.

Nancy

[Jim Becker]

I prefer to use BLO on cherry as a first step, followed by de-waxed garnet shellac, followed by my top-coat, which is usually Target Coatings USL. I'm about to try a new product of theirs that is a hybrid alkyd water borne finish that really is great on cherry, however. While you can brush all of these products, most folks prefer to spray water borne or lacquer because they set up so quickly.

[Craig Kershaw]

I am using a the Waterlox high gloss finish on a cherry bar am I making. It wipes on with a cloth, no brushes to clean. Its also available in semi gloss. Fumes are minimal unlike with laquer. It does however require about 5 thins coats to get a real nice finish. Prior to using Waterlox I used the Minwax ploy, I'll never go back.

[Joe Chritz]

Like Craig mentioned. Waterlox is my finish for 90% of the projects I don't spray. I spray about 90% of the projects but the depth and look of waterlox is fantastic and would look great on cherry.

You could most likely skip the BLO as the waterlox is solvent based and pops the grain very well.

For a spray coat (which would be my first choice on a large project) I use Target USL satin.

Joe