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Thread: Selecting finish for cherry bed

  1. #16
    Thanks for the replies everyone. This helps to guide me in the right direction. I will be sure to post pictures when everything is finished.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Craig Kershaw View Post
    I am using a the Waterlox high gloss finish on a cherry bar am I making. It wipes on with a cloth, no brushes to clean. Its also available in semi gloss. Fumes are minimal unlike with laquer. It does however require about 5 thins coats to get a real nice finish. Prior to using Waterlox I used the Minwax ploy, I'll never go back.
    Craig, does the Waterlox look better than the MinWax Poly? Maybe I'll switch like you did..

    Matt

  3. #18
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    hand applied finish

    I too would recommend the Waterlox. I am in the process of finishing a Maloof style rocker and am using the original formula in the red label can. It is used as sealer and finish and leaves a satin sheen as well as a slight amber tint. Wipe it on with a rag and give it 4 or 5 coats then wax. Very easy (almost fool proof) and it sounds like what you are looking for

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nancy Laird View Post
    but I'm guessing that Moser's is available at places other than WWS.

    Nancy
    I'm pretty sure the Moser's is the house label for WWS finishing products.

  5. #20
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    I'm not Craig, but to me the Waterlox definately looks better than the Minwax, at least after you get a fair number of coats on. It is also better handling in a subtle sense. (I'm thinking particularly of the Original/Sealer--the Waterlox core product comes in three flavors Satin, Original/Sealer, and Gloss. The Original/Sealer works perfectly well as a top coat, and has a mellow gloss that I find attractive, without a hint of "plastic" sense.

  6. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Paldy View Post
    Craig, does the Waterlox look better than the MinWax Poly? Maybe I'll switch like you did..

    Matt
    In my opinion, FWIW they are not even in the same category. It is more costly but well worth it.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  7. #22
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    Cool

    Quote Originally Posted by Nancy Laird View Post
    We use Behlen's Qualalacq, and spray. ...Here's a link to a source: http://www.woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FU...ARTNUM=848-754

    ... and none is available in California.

    Nancy
    I just discovered the "none is available in California" today. I'm finishing a cherry table and found out that the only way I can buy laquer in California is in a spray can. It seems to me that spray cans are even worse that quarts, etc. Yes, Ive reverted to using spray cans. I guess on my next cherry table (now being designed - bought the curly cherry yesterday) I'll have to try shellac or perhaps something else.
    Don Bullock
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  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Don Bullock View Post
    I just discovered the "none is available in California" today. I'm finishing a cherry table and found out that the only way I can buy laquer in California is in a spray can. It seems to me that spray cans are even worse that quarts, etc. Yes, Ive reverted to using spray cans. I guess on my next cherry table (now being designed - bought the curly cherry yesterday) I'll have to try shellac or perhaps something else.
    Why can't you mail order it? I know the PRC is wacky about solvents &c, but you should be able to mail order it from someplace.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Shank View Post
    Why can't you mail order it? I know the PRC is wacky about solvents &c, but you should be able to mail order it from someplace.
    These products, when they are shipped, MUST BE LABELLED as hazardous, etc. The US Mail and other carriers can not ship them to California (and other states that have banned them). There are ways to get around the ban, but I'm not going there.

    Nancy
    Nancy Laird
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  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Landon Satterly View Post
    I am looking for the solution for a natural, simple finish that will last.

    If you want nitrocellulose lacquer, I'd see if Jeff Jewitt can ship it to you. I don't use it but have received plenty of packages marked as hazardous material...they generally have to be shipped ground. I'd gather that shipping to commercial versus residential might have different rules. I also think that Woodcraft sells solvent lacquer and I'd think that many commercial cabinet and furniture makers still use solvent lacquer here in Cali.

    I like to spray and don't have enough space for a dedicated spray booth....hence I use waterborne lacquer. That is another option. Again, Jeff Jewitt is a great resource - call and talk with him about your situation.

    I'm not sure why you're worried about the dog. Do they chew furniture? I can't imagine dog claws being an issue with a bed frame. At any rate, no topcoat is going to be impervious to the goings-on from a dog. For a bedframe, I don't think physical protection is a huge concern. BLO and wax are all I'd do.
    Tim


    on the neverending quest for wood.....

  11. #26
    Well, I would apply of mixture of Tung Oil, BLO, and Turpentine in the ratio of 1:1:2 as a first coat (it's a bit lighter than just using BLO) and then finish with shellac, probably starting with a Kusmi shellac (redish brown, lighter than Garnet) and then finishing with a lemmon shellac (a bit lighter than orange). A dog will mangle any finish and a bed is not a high wear item. I prefer the shellac as it is very, very easy to repair by hand, without spray equipment, if it ever needs it. If going with a shellac finish (not shellac as a sealer) then I would go with a waxed shellac. Once you get a good build of shellac it will be fairly glossy but that is easily knocked down when you rub out the finish, or you can add shellac flat (see Jeff Jewitt). Shellac also takes transtint dyes very well if there are some areas that you would like to even out the tone on.

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