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Thread: FWW article on strength of Glues

  1. #1
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    FWW article on strength of Glues

    In the last FWW , there is an interesting article on the strength of different clues. Pva glues did very well! Epoxy was as good and the wood actually failed rather than the glue. Hide glue was approx 80 % as strong... The worst was Gorilla glue or other polyurethanes at only 58 %. That is what I always thought....it is really no surprise ...and I hate the mess. See this older thread..
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthre...t=gorilla+glue
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  2. #2
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    I just got the mag yesterday, but haven't had time to crack the cover. But that article did catch my eye and I look forward to reading it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
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    Read it also it was just what I thought. I actuall signed up on line and you can get the current issue and all the back issues. So if you want info on something just do a search and they usally have a couple of articals it looks like they have stuff several years back. For $4.99 a month it is a nice resource, especally for someone starting out.
    -=Jason=-

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    I agree Mark. The few times I used Gorilla Glue, I was not impressed and I still haven't gotten the mess cleaned up! The FWW article has given me the last push I needed to throw the stuff in the trash. Thanks FWW.

    On another note, I was a little surprised to see that liquid hide glue did as well or better than the hot stuff.

    Interesting article.

    Hank

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hank Knight View Post
    I agree Mark. The few times I used Gorilla Glue, I was not impressed and I still haven't gotten the mess cleaned up! The FWW article has given me the last push I needed to throw the stuff in the trash. Thanks FWW.

    On another note, I was a little surprised to see that liquid hide glue did as well or better than the hot stuff.

    Interesting article.

    Hank

    In some old post , I mentioned that i thought the strength was about the same....Liqid hide is very good for fixing flaws in the wood surface and does not bother the finish much
    "All great work starts with love .... then it is no longer work"

  6. #6
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    I've seen some trick fixes pulled off with Gorilla Glue; none of them had anything to do with WWing. I have a small bottle in the shop but have never found the need to break the seal.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  7. #7

    gorilla or titebond 3 poly glues

    Something I haven't seen mentioned is that the poly glues are very temperature sensitive too. Particularly LOW temps. Titebond 3 lists 58°F as the minimum temperature. I used some in a cold shop and it failed totally. Gorilla glue is the same. Original Titebond, if it will set up it's fine. The same with TB 2. Epoxys work fine as well. West Systems are familar to me from composite aircraft building, a great product.
    Bill Jepson

  8. #8
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    They tested two PVA glues, but no urea formaldehyde; which is quite disappointing and doesn't make a whole lot of sense.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by glenn bradley View Post
    I've seen some trick fixes pulled off with Gorilla Glue; none of them had anything to do with WWing. I have a small bottle in the shop but have never found the need to break the seal.
    Squeeze that bottle. If it feels crunchy, save yourself the effort of opening it. The shelf life on that stuff aint all that great. I bought a new bottle that had already hardened and have felt a quite a few on the store shelves out of curiousity. About 1/2 had already hardened.
    Use the fence Luke

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Jepson View Post
    Something I haven't seen mentioned is that the poly glues are very temperature sensitive too. Particularly LOW temps. Titebond 3 lists 58°F as the minimum temperature. I used some in a cold shop and it failed totally. Gorilla glue is the same. Original Titebond, if it will set up it's fine. The same with TB 2. Epoxys work fine as well. West Systems are familar to me from composite aircraft building, a great product.
    Bill Jepson
    I had the same experience. The temps really need to be 65+ for me to get TB 3 to really work out for me. I need to finish insulating up the garage this summer and that's one big reason.

  11. #11
    I have always liked the PVA glues myself. I just didn't like the extra mess with Gorilla glue.

    PVA Glue Clean Up:

    This has always been an issue with these glues. You will see Norm wipe off with damp towel or rag and by doing so he is rubbing the glue into the fibers and you must rely on your sanding to remove it or you will get the Tell Tale glue trail during finishing. I expect we all have had a few of those suprises. I picked this tip up off of a Woodsmith video. Instead of wiping like this... let the squeeze out set up to a (sorry don't mean to be gross ) a sticky boogery consistency and then slice it off with a razor blade and then sand the residue left when dry. Much less chance of forcing it into the pours of the wood I am told. Made sense.

    I got this tip from a member of another board. He says wipe off the squeeze out like Norm does but spray a 50/50 mixture of water and vinegar prior to drying and there will be no tell/tale glue trail. Don't know if it actually works but plan on trying it out. Anyone try or use this and it works?

    Sorry Mark, I didn't mean to take the thread another direction. I just happened to think of this while we were talking about glues.

    Corey

  12. #12
    Hi Corey, I'd be worried that the water and vinegar would work too well and get down into the joint. When on the extremely rare occasion (Yeah, right ) when I've had to disassemble a jointed glued with PVA, I use the water/vinegar mix as an aid to soften the glue. It works very well.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Singer View Post
    In the last FWW , there is an interesting article on the strength of different clues. Pva glues did very well!
    Hey, I just finished that article not five minutes ago!
    (usually us Canucks are way behind you in getting mags)

    I do wish they'd tested the Lee Valley 2002 GF glue. It's a PVA also, I believe. It has been my main glue for the past 3-4 years, though I also use Titebond II on some occasion.

    Anyone know of articles that have compared the different PVA glues? Or are most of them pretty identical?

    ...art
    "It's Not About You."

  14. #14
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    My last two attempts at Gorilla Glue have messed up the project. One I finally planed down to clean wood. The other, gluing aluminum to oak, I messed up the aluminum finish and the glue still isn't off.

    What (besides a gorilla) shoul I use for joining unlike materials like wood and aluminum? Epoxy?
    Veni Vidi Vendi Vente! I came, I saw, I bought a large coffee!

  15. #15
    youll want to wear gloves when using the gorrilla glue. It only wears off.

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