First try with the European pen kit

[Patrick Taylor]

I like this kit, it feels good in weight and curve. A rather unspectacular piece of Birds-eye maple.

[Bernie Weishapl]

Patrick that is a classy pen. Nice job.

[Mike A. Smith]

Very nice! I'm going to have to try turning one of those stands you've got it on.

LOML wants a pen from me sooner or later. Right now, I don't see myself getting too deep into pens, but then I said that when I bought my little PSI lathe, "just to see if I liked turning".

You guys have been doing lot's of these, what would you consider to be the minimum start up equipment for turning pens if you aren't planning on doing many?

[Patrick Taylor]

Mike, that stand is just a little metal frog that my wife had on the shelf, and I was tired of pen photos with no stand!

As for doing pens, I resisted for a while because I didn't want to buy a bunch of stuff and the multitude of kits and techniques and styles was a bit overwhelming. (I like bowls because they're simple and elegant) Having done some, they're REALLY fun! They're great instant gratification when you do simple ones, but apparently can be as complex as you want. Trust me though, you'll be surprised at how easy it is to turn your first pen.

To start, I got set up to do some slimlines, then tried a euro style. I think it's a good way to start and soon I'll try some more complicated ones. I have a jet mini and an extra live center with the 60 degree taper, so here's what I needed:

1. pen kits, I tried slimline first
2. pen blanks, or DRY wood to cut your own
3. drill bit, 7mm for slimlines
4. thick CA to glue the tubes if you don't have it already
5. a vice or similar to hold blanks while I drill (I drill by hand because I'm too cheap to buy a drill press, and besides the 2" quill travel and having to move the table in the middle of drilling sounds like a major PITA.)
6. friction polish and wax, or some other finishing supplies
7. a pen press to help with assembly (this REALLY helps, and it's only ~$40)
8. pen mill set for squaring the ends of the blanks
9. a mandrel to hold the blanks for turning
10. bushings to guide the thickness when turning

Like I said, I saved on not getting a drill press when someone at woodcraft suggested I dril by hand, and I've had no problems. Those items will get you started with slimlines, and you'll just need different size bushings and bits for making other styles.

Try it and post your results!

[Benjamin Dahl]

Patrick, very nice pen. I have found that the European's are some of my best sellers though not my favorite to turn. I do like the clean shape and weight they have. thanks.
Ben

[Jim Shaver, Oakville Ont]

Hey Patrick,

Well done, very well done. I always found the centre band the challenge, turning the tenon down and getting the hardware fit is not that easy the first time out...Well Done!

[Patrick Taylor]

I always found the centre band the challenge, turning the tenon down and getting the hardware fit is not that easy the first time out...Well Done!

Thanks Jim. I was nervous about it, and probably went a couple thou too far on the tenon, but it glued up fine.

All, do you use the thick or thin glue for the center band on these?

[Jim Shaver, Oakville Ont]

All, do you use the thick or thin glue for the center band on these?

I always used glue on mine, I was almost never able to get a tight press fit....I have not made one of these in over 5 years..

[Benjamin Dahl]

Patrick, I use a dab thick set glue if the tenon is a little small (Jim might have other methods). I have found that the challenges are worth it but this pen takes longer than others due to the tenon.
Ben

[Gary Herrmann]

Patrick that turned out very well. I have a couple of those in the shop but haven't tried them yet. Great job.

[Grant Wilkinson]

Patrick

I don't glue mine and haven't had one fall apart yet. (We need a fingers crossed icon.)

I don't turn the tenon, though, so I think that may help, since I don't have the risk of turning a bit off the tube.

I have a disk sander, so I can easily make the upper blank the exact final length. I glue the tube in, and the "tenon" is already formed and sticking out from the blank. I've done all mine this way, and not had any issues.

[Patrick Taylor]

Patrick

I don't glue mine and haven't had one fall apart yet. (We need a fingers crossed icon.)

I don't turn the tenon, though, so I think that may help, since I don't have the risk of turning a bit off the tube.

I have a disk sander, so I can easily make the upper blank the exact final length. I glue the tube in, and the "tenon" is already formed and sticking out from the blank. I've done all mine this way, and not had any issues.

I'm confused... with the european kit you're taking the upper blank to final thickness, then gluing the tube in with the end sticking out, and then gluing the ring to the tube? The ID of the ring is much larger than the OD of the tube... how does that fit?

[Rich Souchek]

I'm confused... with the european kit you're taking the upper blank to final thickness, then gluing the tube in with the end sticking out, and then gluing the ring to the tube? The ID of the ring is much larger than the OD of the tube... how does that fit?

Patrick,
No.
The european is turned just like the regular other pens, but the metal center ring callls for another step. After turning, (adn for me, sanidng and finishing), a tenon is formed on the bottom end of the upper cap segment for the metal center on the finished ring. Ton't remember exact sizeof the recess, but is is about .25" wide x 4.020" dia. Thecenter then should be a tight fit on the upper pen body segment. If (as I usually do) cut the tenon too deep, the center is loose and must be glued on to stay in place.

All that said, the Eropean is one of my favorite pens. I cut the lower section fat so there is a smooth contour over the entire pen. The pens weight, ballance, and size seems to fit most people. It lloks very good.
Rich S.

[Keith Burns]

Patrick, very nice pen. I like the classic looks, no beads, coves, etc. Great job