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Thread: Siding nailers & Hardie board

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Skillman, NJ
    Posts
    933
    Did not that framer get really heavy after awhile? I see it weighs in at 8.5 lbs. I am no weakingly but something that heavy being held out away from your body on a ladder might take its toll after some time. I have roughly 4000sf of siding to put up....Did you ever look into the Hitachi NV75ag? It is a coil nailer which can take both framing & siding nails. Most siders weigh in between 4.5 to 5.5 poundplus add a full coil of nails and it will get up there a bit too. Did you use stainless ringshank or galvanized?

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Central Illinois
    Posts
    297
    It does get heavy after awhile. The reasons for the choice at the time were that my other framer was an Bostich N-80-CB Utility coiling nailer. I used it to resheath my roof and it got real heavy when you put the coil of nails in it. For a horizontal application it would have been even worse. It also didn't have an adjustable depth stop, which comes in handy for the siding. So I wasn't looking for another coil nailer at the time. I use the stainless ring shank to attach the siding and galvanized ring shank to attach the sheathing. It appears that going on our fourth summer of siding the house that we are replacing almost all the sheathing and sections of structural supports in each of the walls we open up. Good luck on your project.

    Mike

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Near saw dust
    Posts
    980
    Never installed it but here is a little trick we use on clapboard butt joints (other than caulking and good nailing).

    Make a piece of vycor or ice and water shield (adhesive backed rubber membrane for waterproofing roof/windows etc- flexible flashing- vycor is the best for side wall applications since it is the thinnest) that is slightly larger than the hardi is tall and about 6" wide. When you nail a piece of siding on leave the side that will butt the next piece unnailed and slip the piece of vycor (with paper backing peeled) behind it so half of it is exposed and the bottom is over the piece of siding below. Now finish nailing and move on to the next piece.

    This just makes a backup for when the siding moves or the house settles or the hurricane blows the rain up instead of down and makes sure that any water that might get through is brought back out rather than free to run down your tar paper or hosue wrap and rot your sheathing over time.

    It is a lot more work, but it is necessay as all of these products move, even the plywood they are nailed to. Start by making a bunch and then they are ready when needed.
    Strive for perfection...Settle for completion

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Los Angeles, CA
    Posts
    224
    Paul, get the max CN565S. It is the best siding nailer (low pressure) on the market by far. Super light never missfires and built like a tank. When do you need it? I might be selling mine and going to the Max powerlite (400psi) system very soon. The Powerlite is the "Martin" of the nailers. Email if interested in my CN565S.

    Dan

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Sopchoppy Florida
    Posts
    95

    Who about saw blades

    I will be using Hardie board lapped siding for my new shop. The instructions call for a specialized blade that you order from Hardie.
    Is this necessary or can I use a throw-away crosscut carbide tip?

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Skillman, NJ
    Posts
    933
    Larry,
    I was told the special blade will last quite a while. It has very few teeth...very similiar to a dedicated rip blade

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    St. Louis, MO
    Posts
    21

    blades

    Larry, I believe the 7 1/4 Hardi blade has only 4 teeth on it. If you are going to be doing a lot of cutting or ripping for your shop you need to get it.
    Please be careful with this stuff. This is concrete and once cut it will cause silicosis. I would suggest using some electric shears. No dust=no problems.

    Clayton

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kanasas City, MO
    Posts
    1,787
    Paul-Larry,
    There are carbide tipped circ saw blades for cutting Hardie Panels. Mine are 6 tooth. Caution when using them in regards to speed of cut as the few teeth can't be forced through the material or you'll burn up the carbides... DAMHIKT . Also, if you are using the lap siding, don't try gang cuts again the heat will KILL the blade in a heart beat.. DAMHIKT.
    You can also get these blades in 6 1/4" for cordless circ saws (like my Milwaukee 28V). All told, I think I went through 4 blades goind my house, including ripping a couple pieces of the 4X8 sheeted stuff.
    Definatelty don't cut in the garage or upwind of the your house & close all windows... it makes an EPIC cloud. FYI, I ran a box fan behind me when cutting these all outside in my driveway along with standard issure goggles & canister breather.

    Greg

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Skillman, NJ
    Posts
    933
    Here is some stupid questions for you post-installation Hardie guys....did you cut the siding with a CMS or skillsaw? I am assuming lap siding here of course and doing the normal crosscutting. It seems most blades are only for skillsaws. Kind of makes sense because I know it would be conveinent to cut on a chop saw but it would most likely kill the saw after done with the entire house. How about little cuts that needed to be notched around something? did you use a jig saw or shear or ???

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Kanasas City, MO
    Posts
    1,787
    Paul,
    I cut mine all with a circular saw... notching etc (around light fixtures, sill cocks, electrical & phone boxes) was done with basically the drywall method of score n snap or I acually had good luck using a 2" Borg chisel. The siding is thin enough so if you use a backer, one good wrap with a hammer and the chisel will cut all the way through.
    I used both methods depending on what tool I had in the pouches, ya get sick of trips up n down the ladder after a day or 3!

    Greg

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