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Thread: stabilized pen blanks advice

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504

    stabilized pen blanks advice

    So far my pen turning experience has been limited to plain slimlines using plain wood blanks and finishing with Deft. After being given a couple of Americanas(?) by Ernie Nyvall, my wife decided she wanted some fancier pens. She picked out some Euros at the Woodcraft store in Spokane on our way home from Houston. I decided "Why not" and ordered some stabilized wood blanks...mainly burls from CSUSA. Are there any tricks or do you have any advice about turning these stabilized blanks? Any out of the ordinary finishing techniques or advice?

    Any advice on turning Euros or working or finishing with stabilized wood blanks would be greatly appreciated!

    Thanks!
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    306
    Ken, it is probably easier than working with wood, since it has less tendency to tear and pull out. I would just sand through micromesh and finish with CA, but you may have a preferred method.
    What you will discover is that you waited too long to try these blanks. What you will also learn is that it doesn't really make a lot of financial sense to use a fifty-cent blank to make a 20 dollar pen when you could use a five dollar blank to make a 50 dollar pen.
    Arizona Silhouette probably has the best selection of stabilized blanks. Their dyed buckeye burls are special, in my estimation.
    If you've not made a Euro yet, I suggest using a cheaper blank first, just to be sure you understand what you are doing. It hurts to throw an expensive blank in the uh-oh box.
    Look forward to some pictures.
    Joe

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Kennewick, WA
    Posts
    349
    Ken,
    Got some from Arizona too. Sanded ending with micromesh. Since they have a lot of resin through and through, I used Novus 3, 2, and 1 (in that order). Its from the windshield repair folks. Don't have any feedback on the wearability of this finish but did look like glass when I sent them out as gifts.
    Ernie (Kennewick)
    Ernie on-the-dry-side; WA

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    Goodland, Kansas
    Posts
    22,605
    Hey Ken the only thing I can add is if you happen to turn the blank where the center ring goes on a little small and the ring is not quite tight enough just add a touch of epoxy and all is well. I had a little trouble with my first ones and Russ Fairfield told me to just use epoxy. You can google him and he has a excellent site on finishing and turning pens. It helped me a lot.
    Bernie

    Never put off until tomorrow what you can do the day after tomorrow.

    To succeed in life, you need three things: a wishbone, a backbone and a funnybone.



  5. #5
    Turning stabilized blank is easier IMHO. They will be a bit harder and will tend to produce chips and not curls while turning.

    Though they finish much better, I haven't turned one that I can leave bare/unfinished yet though. Honestly, it all depends on your taste and standards.

    Note that different wood, stabilizes differently. Some harder wood stay almost unchanged, while most softer wood benefit from it a lot. Redwood is soft but in my experience hardly benefits from stabilization.

    For me, the biggest cost in making pens is MY labor (unless you get the top of the line high end kits) so I don't skimp on my kits or blanks. Way I see it is, I will spend the same time turning a slimline or an Emperor anyway.
    Dario

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Newportville, PA
    Posts
    197
    I like using the stabilized wood for pens and bottle toppers. Sharp tools and finish with the skew then you can start sanding with 400 grit. Put at least one coat of thin CA on it, you'll see it soak into the spots were the stabilization didn't soak into then start sanding/polishing away. I usually finish up with some EEE Ultrashine to get the extra gloss look. I've been disappointed a few times when using dyed and stabilized woods, sometimes the dye just doesn't penetrate very well which ends up being the same areas were the CA soaks into.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2007
    Location
    Niskayuna, NY
    Posts
    120
    Ken,

    Since I don't have micromesh, I've been using automotive polishing compound on my pens (after sanding up to 800) and it gives them a nice smooth, clean finish. I follow that up with some renaissance wax. So far, so good.

    Jason

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Mendota, IL
    Posts
    760
    Ken

    I use alot of Arizona Silhouttes Stabilized blanks for bottle stoppers and have have several pens with them too. I rough with a 3/8 bowl gouge. Using my rough gouge has been too aggresive and resulted in big blow outs.

    Sand to 600, deft, EEE, & friction polish works for me. CA finish has not been a friend to me but I did get a lesson recently and need to try again.

    Even if you use whatever finish you always use you'll be surprized how much more shine you'll get off the Stabilized blanks

    Frank
    'Sawdust is better than Prozac'

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