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Thread: Sublimation

  1. #16
    Mike, I agree with all that was said about the H/P 4550.

    It is my understanding that the Konica model sold by ColorStar does not have the bleed problem and is therefore usable for the entire selection of sublimatible products.

    The Oki is supported by Al from Att Transfer. I have not heard as much good regarding his options but he is pushing a white toner option pretty hard.

    The absolute beauty of laser sublimation is the lack of clogging problems that have been the main challenge of the process.



    www.colorstarink.com
    www.atttransfer.com

    All the usual disclaimers, not a representative of either company, just a heat transfer user.

  2. #17
    Can I use my current HP Color LaserJet 2605dn but with the specialty papers that are around? I've read that this sometimes called an OEM Laser transfer.

    If I have my brain around all this "dye-sub" stuff, it seems like there two primary methods related to using a color laser printer (excluding the entire InkJet realm). One method seems to be using plain old toners (thus called OEM I assume) but specialty paper as the transfer medium. The other method seems to be using special sublimation toners but with plain copier/laser paper as the transfer medium. Is my thinking/understanding correct on this?

    Whew!
    Thanks,

    Mike DeRegnaucourt

    Axiom AR8 Pro CNC, 60-Watt Epilog Legend 36EXT, Prusa MK3 3D Printer, SE-DC16, Powermatic Bandsaw, JET Lathe, Craftsman Lathe, Rigid Drill Press, Excalibur Scroll Saw, Craftsman Tablesaw, Delta Dust Collector, JET Air Filtration, Craftsman Planer, Old Craftsman Jointer, JessEm Router Table with Porter Cable 7518 Router, etc...


    Aspire v9.5, CorelDraw 2021, Corel Video Studio 2019, ShaderMap Pro, GIMP, Mesh Mixer, Fusion 360, Sculptris, Google Sketchup, etc...


  3. #18
    Mike, In the most basic of terms, your understanding is correct.

    As for running a coated paper in your laser, unless it has been previously tested, it is on you. If your fuser is too hot, for an example, it may heat the coating to much and cause damage inside your laser. You will have to decide if your printer is expendable. I know that I have been looking at the new color lasers offered by Dell and am strongly considering buying one just to test...when I have a couple hundred I can afford to throw away....

    The other element of unknown results is, how good is the H/P OEM toner in regards to adhering to the substrate and what is the UV life? It is believed that the Oki toner has the best UV life, but no real, accelerated, testing has been done to my knowledge.

    Now that you are thinking OEM laser transfer, celebrate the thought of being able to buy substrates locally, not paying high shipping costs of expensive coated product. No more polyester t-shirts, no more coated tiles or mugs, ability to print onto acrylic....and don't tell anyone, plain glass.

    Doug

  4. #19
    Hi Doug,

    Thank you for the information. Sounds like the Okidata might be a good choice. I get the impression that you also use OEM toners as well, correct? Based on other sources I've read, it appears that that the laser toner method is cheaper than inkjet when broken down to a piece-by-piece comparison.

    Do you have a good source for the specialty papers? Are the VersTrans papers from PSI/Cactus a reasonable option?

    When doing OEM laser transfer to coffe mugs, how do they hold up to dishwashing?

    What about "white"...do you rely on a white background of the substrate as the "white" for an image on the item? This sounds like dark substrates would be out if there is a need for white on the image...at least when doing OEM laser...correct?

    As always, the members at SawMill Creek have been such an incredbile help. It's forums and communities SMC that make newer members like myself proud to be associated with such a great group of folks.
    Thanks,

    Mike DeRegnaucourt

    Axiom AR8 Pro CNC, 60-Watt Epilog Legend 36EXT, Prusa MK3 3D Printer, SE-DC16, Powermatic Bandsaw, JET Lathe, Craftsman Lathe, Rigid Drill Press, Excalibur Scroll Saw, Craftsman Tablesaw, Delta Dust Collector, JET Air Filtration, Craftsman Planer, Old Craftsman Jointer, JessEm Router Table with Porter Cable 7518 Router, etc...


    Aspire v9.5, CorelDraw 2021, Corel Video Studio 2019, ShaderMap Pro, GIMP, Mesh Mixer, Fusion 360, Sculptris, Google Sketchup, etc...


  5. #20
    Mike

    Based on one of your posts I read on another forum I would encourage you to follow Steve's advice and talk to Jack or Roy at Alpha Supply (colormagic) as they are the most knowledgeable people I've found in the sublimation area.

    Even though the HP 4550 has been discontinued I believe they are still recommending re-furbished units.

    For what it's worth, I am discontinuing printing sublimation transfers and will outsource that to someone who has a volume operation. Sublimation printers using ink msut be operated frequently or clogging will occur.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Lake Stevens, WA
    Posts
    468
    I make a note to at least print a nozzle check once a week on my Epson. I have some standard Tee Shirts and dye sub mugs I sell a lot of and I simply put a color bar at the bottom of the image. I run a sheet of each through if I'm not planning on using the printer in the near future. At least I have the transfers for future use.

    There are some really amazing things that can be done with tiles and hardboard. Especially, if you're into woodworking or have a laser as well.

    (really cool jigsaw puzzles too...)

    Pinnacle ZX Explorer II
    40W, X3
    Vinyl Express Lynx 24"
    Epson 4800 Dye Sub Hybrid

  7. #22
    I am trying to find an alternative method than going with the sublimation specific toners that are being sold. The approximate $300 per cartridge seems pretty steep. However by using OEM style toner, it means having to use more expensive specialty paper. I'm just concerned about purchasing a refurbished HP 4500/4550 and then eventually having problems finding parts and/or making repairs. I wish there was a source providing sublimation specific toners for a model of printer that is still being manufactured today.

    I'll contact the folks at Colormagic and see what they have to say.
    Thanks,

    Mike DeRegnaucourt

    Axiom AR8 Pro CNC, 60-Watt Epilog Legend 36EXT, Prusa MK3 3D Printer, SE-DC16, Powermatic Bandsaw, JET Lathe, Craftsman Lathe, Rigid Drill Press, Excalibur Scroll Saw, Craftsman Tablesaw, Delta Dust Collector, JET Air Filtration, Craftsman Planer, Old Craftsman Jointer, JessEm Router Table with Porter Cable 7518 Router, etc...


    Aspire v9.5, CorelDraw 2021, Corel Video Studio 2019, ShaderMap Pro, GIMP, Mesh Mixer, Fusion 360, Sculptris, Google Sketchup, etc...


  8. #23
    Mike,

    I currently, only run OEM Laser transfers. I'm not doing any sublimation currently. Got very tired of the clogging and color shifting, and, expense of coated tiles shipped into the NW. Now I can go to the borg and buy tile, Walmart and buy a tshirt, or to my sandcarving stash for a chunk of glass!

    Yes, Versatrans is my coated paper of choice, but, I have to disclose, I'm friends of Mick from Cactus and Steve at PSI was a previous distributor of my frame products so I'm biased. That said, on the leading forum for sublimation you will find both Steve and Mick much more visable that the other OEM laser coated paper folks, that means much to me.

    Yes, OEM is still a light substrate process.

    As for coffee mug dishwasher ability...don't own a dishwasher so I have not done testing. I suggest anyone that gets a mug from me, hand wash. Have not heard anymore. I do post bake my tiles and mugs for awhile in the oven before handling them or using them. Also, I have found that a satin glaze or in the case of tiles, bisque is the best. I've had some challenges on glossy glazes.

    As for cost savings. Don't know. I've never considered the price of the ink and transfer paper to be a big issue compared to what I charge for the process itself. If I'm able to make a little more money know because of OEM laser, it is more because of lack of ink wasted on clogs or color shifting and maybe a lower cost of ink and paper.

    One thing I would suggest. You might want to consider the minolta due to being able to switch between oem and sublimation toner is you wish to down the road. I'm not a fan of the need for a leader strip on the transfer paper on the Oki...I don't seem to need it on my Minolta.

    Good luck.

  9. #24
    Hi Doug,

    [quote=Doug Jones from Oregon;659708]You might want to consider the minolta due to being able to switch between oem and sublimation toner is you wish to down the road. I'm not a fan of the need for a leader strip on the transfer paper on the Oki...I don't seem to need it on my Minolta.quote]

    When you refer to the "leader strip" does that basically mean the Oki will not print edge-to-edge? Does the Minolta permit edge-to-edge printing?
    Thanks,

    Mike DeRegnaucourt

    Axiom AR8 Pro CNC, 60-Watt Epilog Legend 36EXT, Prusa MK3 3D Printer, SE-DC16, Powermatic Bandsaw, JET Lathe, Craftsman Lathe, Rigid Drill Press, Excalibur Scroll Saw, Craftsman Tablesaw, Delta Dust Collector, JET Air Filtration, Craftsman Planer, Old Craftsman Jointer, JessEm Router Table with Porter Cable 7518 Router, etc...


    Aspire v9.5, CorelDraw 2021, Corel Video Studio 2019, ShaderMap Pro, GIMP, Mesh Mixer, Fusion 360, Sculptris, Google Sketchup, etc...


  10. #25
    Mike, the leader strip is a small piece of paper applied to the leading edge of the paper. It aids in the feed of each sheet into the printer. Not sure I understand why it is necessary, but, it is.

    I've experience nothing like this with the Minolta as long as I remember to set the heavy paper selection...otherwise, ugly things happen!

    I don't think I've ever seen a laser that will do edge to edge on the paper. I'm sure none of my 3 will. Minolta, Dell, and the H/P 4550

    Doug

  11. #26
    Mike

    I believe it is cheaper to make products using the CLT process as the toners are less expensive than sub. ink by a long way. Paper is more expensive but the ability to use any substrate more than offsets that. I find the reject rate on CLT to be far less than with dye sub.

    If your image requires white you must have a white substrate regardless of the process.

    In the case of dark shirt transfers there is a 2 part paper which provides the white but it must be trimmed to the image.

    My system is an old Panasonic P8415 using the Magictouch papers and drivers (no longer supplied). It was expensive but has been ultra reliable.

    I use Scotch tape on the leading edge of my paper as I have experienced some jamming from time to time.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  12. #27
    Hi Mike,

    Thanks for the info. I think I'm ready to make the plunge. I'll have to post some pictures once I'm setup and ready.
    Thanks,

    Mike DeRegnaucourt

    Axiom AR8 Pro CNC, 60-Watt Epilog Legend 36EXT, Prusa MK3 3D Printer, SE-DC16, Powermatic Bandsaw, JET Lathe, Craftsman Lathe, Rigid Drill Press, Excalibur Scroll Saw, Craftsman Tablesaw, Delta Dust Collector, JET Air Filtration, Craftsman Planer, Old Craftsman Jointer, JessEm Router Table with Porter Cable 7518 Router, etc...


    Aspire v9.5, CorelDraw 2021, Corel Video Studio 2019, ShaderMap Pro, GIMP, Mesh Mixer, Fusion 360, Sculptris, Google Sketchup, etc...


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