How do you assemble your cabinet carcasses?

[Alan Tolchinsky]

Steve, Thanks for the demo, very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Could you explain your pocket hole cutter set up? Thanks Alan

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, you left out the 15 minutes of sanding to level out the face frame joints... wait a second, that's the OTHER pocket hole jig! Thanks for taking all of those helpful pics.

Oops

Very seldom do I have a face joint that has to be ground down.

Angle of pockets really helps.

[Steve Clardy]

Steve, Thanks for the demo, very interesting and makes a lot of sense. Could you explain your pocket hole cutter set up? Thanks Alan

Sure. I will email it to you Alan.

[John Schreiber]

Thanks Steve, that's nice.

Is it a swinging router setup that cuts your pocket holes? What angle do they go in at? Looks much steeper than the standard jig.

[Steve Clardy]

Thanks Steve, that's nice.

Is it a swinging router setup that cuts your pocket holes? What angle do they go in at? Looks much steeper than the standard jig.

Yes. It has a PC690 router. 6 degree's. Almost straight.
Very seldom any creep when the screw is inserted.

[Bill White]

1/2" stuff for backs? Isn't that overkill? I've always used 1/4" ply or hardboard. And I have no idea why my font just changed.
Bill

[frank shic]

Bill, if you're using a nailer (horizontal piece that stretches across the top of the back) you could use thinner sheet stock although it requires you to buy two different sizes. I made my first set of kitchen cabinets completely out of 3/4" maple plywood so that I could screw through the backs when fastening to the wall. I don't do this anymore since I've adopted suspension wall brackets which allow me to get away with 1/4" as you mentioned.

Steve, that angled nail through the side into the face frame is a sly trick. Guess I won't pitch all of my bessey clamps just yet!

[Steve Clardy]

Bill, if you're using a nailer (horizontal piece that stretches across the top of the back) you could use thinner sheet stock although it requires you to buy two different sizes. I made my first set of kitchen cabinets completely out of 3/4" maple plywood so that I could screw through the backs when fastening to the wall. I don't do this anymore since I've adopted suspension wall brackets which allow me to get away with 1/4" as you mentioned.

Steve, that angled nail through the side into the face frame is a sly trick. Guess I won't pitch all of my bessey clamps just yet!

Thanks

No holes to fill, and it doesn't tie up all your clamps.

[Von Bickley]

Yes. It has a PC690 router. 6 degree's. Almost straight.
Very seldom any creep when the screw is inserted.

Steve,

What about a thread on your pocket cutter. I know a lot of people could benefit from that....

[Bill Huber]

Steve !!!

That is really a very good tutorial on building a cabinet.
I have this thread bookmarked under cabinets.

Thank You Ever So Much...

[glenn bradley]

"Gun nail from the inside. No fasteners show, no holes to fill
I use a 3/4" 18ga nail, angled from the plywood to the face."

That is one of the coolest tips I've seen. Thanks Steve.

[Aaron Hamilton]

I'm a beginning cabinetmaker having great success with:
1. Pocket screws on face frames (using the Kreg K3 Master)
2. Somerfeld offset tongue and groove (no nails in my faceframes!!)
3. Pocket screws for dividers inside drawer bays and exterior unfinished ends.
4. Nail-on cleats (or straps) similar to what Mr. Clardy does for added strength.

results in a crazy strong cabinet - and very little need for putty! Also allows you to easily "capture" the back panel so you don't have a million staples to put in!

[Steve Clardy]

Steve,

What about a thread on your pocket cutter. I know a lot of people could benefit from that....

I get a little extra time I will do that Von.

Thanks