Securing studs to concrete

[John Hain]

Thanks for all the replies.

Alfred, I just moved to Omaha, but the seasonal changes will still require worrying about humidity. I will used pressure treated lumber as suggested, I would have probably forgot about that.

My brother-in-law is a construction engineer, so I'll probably ask him to find a Hilti for me

Again, thanks.

[Dixon Peer]

A lot of responses to this one. The right way to do this is the pressure treated lumber "shoe" on the floor, a 2x plate at the ceiling, and stud it up at 16" on center. That way you'll have a nice straight wall (if you can get decent studs, an increasingly difficult thing to find) with an air space behind it. If you have the money and want the best, go for manufactured studs such as Timberstrand or similar. They'll be dead straight and stay that way.

[Rich Engelhardt]

Hello,

Although I don't like buying cheap tools, one of these inexpensive Harbor Freight rotohammers is a good alternative:

A problem I found with the lower cost hammer drills is that the bits will slip. They hold ok for the first dozen or so holes, but then start to slip.
It's not bad if you only have a dozen or so holes to drill, but it get's a bit old after that.
Hitachi and DeWalt both offer a keyed chuck model for under $100. @ Lowes. In retrospect ( plus after ~ the 30th hole ) I was wishing I'd have gotten one.


Re: Drilling into the floor/walls.
Before doing that, and I apologize for not reading more carefully the initial post, make sure the walls and/or floors aren't pre-stressed concrete.
I'm not 100% sure why you aren't supposed to drill into it, but I've read a lot online that you're not supposed to.

[Loren Hedahl]

I am wondering why not just use some polyurethane construction adhesive?