Logs for turning?

[steve fleischmann]

I'm renting a cabin in N.C. and it's about a year old. There are quite a few oak and maple trees that are laying around the property. With the owner's permission of course, is this something I can use on my new Jet 1642? All the trees are 6 - 10" in diameter. If this is something useable should I do anything special when cutting it? Any particular lengths...?
As always thanks in advance.
Steve Fleischmann

[Brett Baldwin]

You could certainly get some decent practice wood form a 10" diameter tree. If you are going for bowls, cut the logs at least 2" longer than the width to allow for any checking. Sealing up the log ends as soon as possible (log sealer is best but latex paint is better than nothing) will minimize the checking.

[Gordon Seto]

With that size, leave the log as long as you can handle. Seal both ends and cut of the checked ends when needed.


Gordon

[joe greiner]

Amen, Gordon. There's no point in cutting them shorter yet. In addition to sealing the ends, store them off the ground and under cover (DAMHIKT). For sealing, I'd recommend, in order of preference, paraffin wax, Anchorseal, surplus latex paint. The paint will likely need occasional re-coating (also DAMHIKT).

Joe

[steve fleischmann]

Thanks for the advice, how will I know if they're dry enough once I get home?

Steve

[Paul Engle]

When you thump 'em the sound will start to change as they dry, the drier they are the sharper the " tink" it will be , also you can weigh them on the bath room scale.....

[Steven Wilson]

Steve, you want them to be wet for awhile. When you get them home you'll need to rip them (get rid of the middle) and then prep them into bowl blanks (cut the corners). You can then mount them on a face plate and rough turn an outside shape and a base for mounting your chuck (to turn the inside). You can then mount it on a chuck and rough turn the inside and then seal again to let the blank dry, or you can final turn the entire piece wet and then seal it again to let it dry. You'll really enjoy turning wet wood as it cuts like a dream

[Gordon Seto]

Steve,

Probably we will be old before the log will completely dry. Unlike flat work which has to be below certain moisture content before you can use the timber.

You can either turn it green from start to finish and allow your turning to distort. Or you rough turn to even thickness and let it dry slowly. You re-turn the rough turned blank to final shape after it has dried.

If you are not familiar with all these process, I would suggest you find a local turning club. It will shorten your learning curve tremendously. They will have more experience on what's is the best procedure for your area's climate condition.

http://www.woodturner.org/community/...t=Chapter+List

I would also suggest you watch the 1st DVD by Bill Grumbine, Turned bowl made easy. It covers everything you need to know about how to turn a bowl - from safety, harvesting wood to finish.

Gordon

[Martin Braun]

Another idea is to rip half way into the log to remove the pith throughout the entire center of the log. This will relieve some of the radial stress as it dries, yet keep the log whole for easier manageability. Of course end treat as suggested above.