FESTOOL circular saws

[Scott Felicetti]

How is this system? I watched the videos on the website for the TS75 and TS55 and was very impressed. The saws seem safe to me and very effective. However, I didn't see any simple mechanism for squaring up the rail to make sure you are cutting a straight line. The rail simply winds up on the cutting surface and the actor/woodworker cuts away.

The EZ smart system is also impressive and obviously does a whole lot more. The ez smart cuts look cleaner. However, the plunging circular saw and dust collection system looks very good.

Any first hand reports on this system? If all I'm going to do is make repeated cross cuts and rips and need accuracy and cleanliness (plus I'm up for a new circular saw) would this be a good choice? As always, thank you for your responses in advance. I'm always put on the right track here.
Scott

[Jim Becker]

Many 'Creekers, including myself, own and use the Festool saws. The guide goes "right on the line", so as long as you marked your workpiece "square", the cut will be the same. The dust collection is excellent as is the cut quality. Do keep in mind that the Festool saws are not "construction" type tools, so if you really need to do that with one tool in addition to cabinetry and furniture, than the EZ system with a regular circular saw may be a better choice. I have an old B&D circular saw I use for construction/home improvement, for example, and the Festool is reserved for shop and installation work.

[Loren Hedahl]

I originally bought the Festool TS55 plus all the other items to make it a system for it's dust control. A local independent wood supplier had taken on the Festool line and actually offered to let me take it home and use it for a day or two. I was sold, and am still very happy with the system.

I was aware of the EZ system, but had never seen it until the last woodworking show this spring in our area. Now having seen both, I'm not sure which way I would go if I could start over. It would depend on my intended use.

The EZ rails are definitely more robust. However they are thicker and you need a bigger saw to cut to the same depth.

I like the idea of generic saws and saw blades that are used on the EZ. However the Festool saws are more refined than any generic saw and I enjoy that refinement every time I use it.

Festool has superior dust control. However I think I would be satisfied with the EZ modification to generic saws in this area.

EZ has more attachments and gizmos for their guide rails. However I tend to lose or misplace those kind of things and don't have them when I need them.

I'm sure I could carry this on for pages -- but "you get the picture".

Loren

[Dixon Peer]

No question in my mind, the Festool 55 and 75 are great saws, and the guide rail is superb. We have two 55's and one 75. I go for the 55 first as it's a lot lighter, but when you have to cut the bottom of a 2 1/4" door, the 75 is the one.

As far a cut quality, there's none better, and with the newer saws there's a little plastic foot that attaches to the outside of the saw that prevents tear-out on the side of the work opposite the guide rail.

I don't know about the EZ system, except that I have read on one of the forums that it raises the bottom of the saw further off the work than the Festool rail does, so the effective depth of cut of your saw is less.

[Greg Funk]

I use the TS55 mainly to break down sheet goods and then do the final cutting on the tablesaw. This makes it easier to get consistent dimensions without having to measure and mark each piece. If you want to make square cuts with the saw and guide you would need to get one of the MFT tables as well.

Greg

[Burt Waddell]

I've had the pleasure of owning and using the EZ System for about 2 years now. EZ has a very good square that can help you with crosscuts and a repeater system that can be set for repeat rips of the same width. One of the repeaters and a square is called a cabinet maker and works great for repeat cuts. We use it for cutting cabinet parts - fast accurate and EZ.

As for the saws, I have a 55 series Festool saw but it has only been used about twice since I bought my First Hilti. I now have 3 of the Hilti 267e saws and many people say they are superior to the Festool. Hilti offers a "use when you need it" style plunge system vs the Festool system that requires you to always use. As for goodies on the two saws, Most key features are offered by both. To me the key difference of the Hilti 267e vs the Festool 55 is first, the Hilti has much better power, secondly it feels better in my hand, thirdly it is safer to use. On the flip side the Festool probably has the best saw dust collection because of the design of the saw.

From my experience the ultimate setup is the Hilti 267e and the EZ rails. If you really want the ultimate system, try the EZ power bench along with the Hilti.

[Don Eddard]

I have an old B&D circular saw I use for construction/home improvement, for example, and the Festool is reserved for shop and installation work.

Out of curiosity, why? Cutting 2x4s and such should not be any worse for the Festool than cutting hardwood lumber. It seems like owning a Yugo and a BMW, driving the Yugo only to the local 7-11, but driving the BMW everywhere else.

I have an old Skil saw and a decent Worx saw. I always grab the better saw when I need one. The Skil is only taking up space in the shop now.

[Michael Schwartz]

As far a cut quality, there's none better, and with the newer saws there's a little plastic foot that attaches to the outside of the saw that prevents tear-out on the side of the work opposite the guide rail.

I don't know about the EZ system, except that I have read on one of the forums that it raises the bottom of the saw further off the work than the Festool rail does, so the effective depth of cut of your saw is less.

A fine homebuilding review rated the EZ Smart system as having the best anti chip protection in a review that included the Fesstool System.

The Fesstool and EZ systems are the only systems that have anti chip protection on both sides of the blade with no offset.

As far as the Cut depth is concerned with the EZ system, it is less, but is enough to cut in up to 1-3/4" with a Hilti 267 and servile other 7-1/4" saws. The saw can be used off the rail for an even greater cut depth. I can cut doors and countertops on the guide-rail with my Hilti 267, and off the rail using it as a strait edge with my other saw.

The Fesstool is a fine system, and the MFT table is a great addition. I too looked very closely at it before I bought my EZ smart gear. I feel the EZ smart system is a more comprehensive solution.

[Dan Lautner]

Scott the Festool system has some very important advantages you should be aware of.

1. Bevel cuts can be made right on the rail edge.

2. The saw sits directly on the super thin rail which gives you
a much deeper depth of cut for a given size blade.

3. Dust collection is excellent

4. Blade changing is brilliant and lightning fast.

5. Depth setting and bevel settings are super precise and fast.

6. Hook the vac up to Festools full line of industrial sanders and you have a zero dust hepa sanding station.

7. The plunge feature not only allows for plunge cuts but makes it almost impossible to be cut by the blade.

I have the TS 55 and 75 and use them both daily

After you get the saw check out the Domino which also hooks up to the vac.
The Domino is truly a revolutionary tool for tenon joinery.

Dan

[Gary Keedwell]

After you get the saw check out the Domino which also hooks up to the vac.
The Domino is truly a revolutionary tool for tenon joinery.

Dan

What makes you think he got the saw or wants the domino?

Gary K

[Scott Felicetti]

The operation of the Festool saw is why I'm leaning to the Festool system. The operation of it makes sense. Safe. Plunging looks like the way to go. I don't see a proper fence option. I saw a nice post a week back where the EZ system was set up on a table with a Uni Fence. Real nice. I guess I could build something similar with the Festool gear.
Depth of cut is not an issue for me, I work with is 1 lumber or veneers.
I want ease of use. Repeatability. Accuracy. Safety and clean simple dust collection. Thanks for all the great input.
Scott

[Jim Becker]

Out of curiosity, why? Cutting 2x4s and such should not be any worse for the Festool than cutting hardwood lumber. It seems like owning a Yugo and a BMW, driving the Yugo only to the local 7-11, but driving the BMW everywhere else.

I have an old Skil saw and a decent Worx saw. I always grab the better saw when I need one. The Skil is only taking up space in the shop now.

The Festool saw is certainly capable of cutting 2x4 lumber, but it's not set up to do it comfortably, both due to the plunge format and the riving knife...it's designed to be used as a guided saw and excels at that task. You also don't have the same view of the blade as you do with a traditional circular saw...something I prefer when working "in the rough". When I cut construction lumber with my circular saw, it's either free-hand or with a speed square...or more likely, with my CMS instead. If I bought another circular saw for construction work, it'd be a worm-drive unit like the dudes are using to build our addition.

But there certainly isn't any reason why one can't use the Festool saw for this purpose if you want to...

[Burt Waddell]

The operation of the Festool saw is why I'm leaning to the Festool system. The operation of it makes sense. Safe. Plunging looks like the way to go. I don't see a proper fence option. I saw a nice post a week back where the EZ system was set up on a table with a Uni Fence. Real nice. I guess I could build something similar with the Festool gear.
Depth of cut is not an issue for me, I work with is 1 lumber or veneers.
I want ease of use. Repeatability. Accuracy. Safety and clean simple dust collection. Thanks for all the great input.
Scott

Scott,

The plunge mechanism on the Festool Saw is a mixed bag.
- You always have to make the plunge motion for any cut.
- Extended cross cuts can be difficult - you have to hold the saw in the plunge position and push at the same time.

- Safety of the saw can be questioned. Dust can build up in the saw. When you pull the trigger to start the saw, the dust has caused the blade to be in contact with the wood. You pull the trigger, the saw jumps and you cut into your rail. A few months ago there was a thread here on sawmill creek where this was referred as "the rite of initation into the world of Festool".

Burt

[Burt Waddell]

The Festool saw is certainly capable of cutting 2x4 lumber, but it's not set up to do it comfortably, both due to the plunge format and the riving knife...it's designed to be used as a guided saw and excels at that task. You also don't have the same view of the blade as you do with a traditional circular saw...something I prefer when working "in the rough". When I cut construction lumber with my circular saw, it's either free-hand or with a speed square...or more likely, with my CMS instead. If I bought another circular saw for construction work, it'd be a worm-drive unit like the dudes are using to build our addition.

But there certainly isn't any reason why one can't use the Festool saw for this purpose if you want to...

But look at the highlighted portions above for some considerations.

[Bob Michaels]

Burt Waddell, please excuse my bluntness, but why do you do a *Paid Political Announcement* every time something like this comes up. I'm sorry, but this is just really starting to feel old and, if anything, you're doing more harm to EZ than you guys may think. I for one really start to question why it's necessary to take shots at Festool every time you can. Is that the only way you can sell EZ. Your twisting of Jim Becker's post was way out out of bounds. Jim is a respected, knowledgable, impartial, and important contributor to this forum, but you managed to twist his helpful post. I'm sure others feel the same way. Please give it a rest. I'm not trying to start WW III, please don't respond.