6" PVC pipe source

[J.R. Rutter]

I don't know if this source has been covered already, but this is a company I used to deal with...

http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ant%5Fid=31005

[Mike Heidrick]

$2.41 a foot seems way high too me. Is that a good price?

[Jim O'Dell]

That seems high to me too. I paid 1.86/ft for the first 2 sections, then one of the guys sold me the other three at just under 95 cents per foot. One of the other guys questioned him about it and he said, yeah, it'll be all right. The 1.86 price seems more in line with what others pay across the US, although quite a few get it for a buck a foot. See if they will tell you where they get it? Jim.

[J.R. Rutter]

Shows what I know about PVC!

Compared to a shop full of Nordfab, the price is right ;-)

[Mike Heidrick]

That NordFab ductwork sure looks awesome!

[Jim Becker]

Yea, the NordFab stuff is really nice and the ultimate in flexibility. Quite a number of folks have found value in combining it with regular duct, using the expensive NordFab fittings where they provide necessary utility and then using the less expensive materials for the general duct layout. I've seen a number of combo machines set up this way.

Recently, I retrofitted the two ceiling drops in my shop with the Grizzly quick-connects that are similar to NordFab. These drops are used by my drum sander and router table setup and I don't want the hose in play (since they are in the middle of everything) when the drops are not actually in use. The quick connects are much nicer to use than just jamming a hose on a piece of duct and fumbling with a screwdriver to tighten a compression band...

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Why do people go with PVC when galvanized steel is so much cheaper?

[Matt Meiser]

Cliff, are you comparing snaplock pipe or the higher end pipe? Sewer pipe or drainage pipe? The sewer pipe fittings are very pricey, but the drainage pipe fittings are pretty cheap.

Here's my logic: I got a quote from Oneida for something like $2000 for the steel pipe to do my shop. PVC probably cost under $500, both numbers including hose, etc. I chose PVC because it was so much easier to work with than the snap lock pipe for me. I've tried both. I do have a few pieces of metal pipe here and there where it was easier or appropriate. The two biggest turnoffs for the snaplock pipe for me was 90's and wyes. To get a 90 degree sweep you needed two of the HVAC 90's and a ton of tape or caulk to seal it--either that or buy dust collection sweeps. For PVC I just used two 45's and a little caulk. For the wyes, I would have had to buy dust collection wyes or fab them--in PVC you can get 6-6-6 or 6-6-4 wyes from Lowes.

Of course you also have to decide which side you believe on the static debate. Lets not go there...

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

The pipe you can use to assemble an HVAC system or vent stack that you buy in flat sheets in the BORG.


It assembles easily works easy and is easy to ground. The only reason I can think of for not using it is that it might be noisy.

[Doug Shepard]

...Recently, I retrofitted the two ceiling drops in my shop with the Grizzly quick-connects ...

Are these what you're referring to?
http://www.grizzly.com/products/g7365
I struck out searching their site for quick connects and a few other tries. This is the only thing I saw that looks like it might qualify.

[Jim Becker]

That's the correct series, Doug, although not the specific product. Look at the "Hose Adapters" and "Machine Adapters" on page 176 of the catalog. You also need the clamp. I put the "machine" adapters on the drops mated directly to the blast gates with pop rivets and sealed with HVAC caulk. The first few times you use them, things are a bit tight to get connected, but that works out over time.

[J.R. Rutter]

As far as I know, those are NordFab products that Grizzly is selling, but my NordFab dealer has better prices! I have a whole shop full of it - expensive but super easy to reconfigure. We redid the layout at the start of the year and were back up and running after a weekend of disassembly / reassembly. And that was about 20 drops.

[Doug Shepard]

That's the correct series, Doug, although not the specific product. Look at the "Hose Adapters" and "Machine Adapters" on page 176 of the catalog. You also need the clamp. I put the "machine" adapters on the drops mated directly to the blast gates with pop rivets and sealed with HVAC caulk. The first few times you use them, things are a bit tight to get connected, but that works out over time.

Hmmm. Do you think that would work for connecting flex to the TS port? I spotted these yesterday that look good but they're only in 4". For right now I might use that but eventually want to put a bigger port on the TS.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/dcflange2.html

How long are those adapters? I'm wanting to avoid a long fixed piece on the back of the saw.