Exist mag. switch on Jet 14" BS wired for 220V?

[Dominic Greco]

Hello Everyone,

This question is directed at those of you who are versed in Electrical Wiring, or have done a good amount of upgrade work on their tools.

I'm in the middle of a massive upgrade project for my 14" Jet Bandsaw. I'm dropping a brand new 2Hp 220V Baldor motor into it, along with new machined sheaves and an industrial link-belt. But this new 2HP motor is 15" long, (about 4 1/2" inches longer than the old 1 HP Taiwanese motor that came with the saw). And since I really didn't want to cut a "window" in the old metal base, I decided to design and fabricate a new closed base.

I'm also adding a 220V 1/4HP 30 CFM filtered cooling fan to the cabinet to help cool the motor. There will be a louvered vent for exhausting hot air on the opposite side of the case from the fan. When I used to resaw with this bandsaw, I noticed the motor got quite hot. At times it was even too hot to touch. I could never understand the logic behind having a totally enclosed fan cooled motor (TEFC) that gets installed in a sealed metal box! There were no vents to draw in cool air at all. (It ran hot,...Go figure!)

I plan on wiring the motor and fan to the same magnetic switch so that they come on at the same time. The amp draw for this fan is a meager 0.08 amps. You don't see any problems with this do you?

I looked through the meager owner's manual (my one major complaint about Jet tools) that came with the saw and noticed diagrams showing how to wire the 1HP motor for 220V. But I did not notice any diagrams showing how to wire the magnetic switch for 220V. I assume that if the motor can be wired for it, so too can the switch.

The specs from Baldor say that the new 2HP motor's Full Load amp draw is 24 A if wired for 110V, 12 A if wired for 220V. I would assume that this existing magnetic switch would have to be rated for that amp draw, and voltage.

Have any of you used this switch in conjunction with a 2Hp 220V motor?

Is there a way for me to find out the specs on this switch? Hopefully without having to call Jet! I'd rather not spend an hour waiting on hold to Jet's Technical Service line to ask someone this question.

If I can't use this switch, I will need to buy a new one. The most likely source is Grizzly. (Part number G4572 which retails for $49.95) However, this switch is rated at 8.5 to 12 amps. I may have to jump up to the 3Hp switch (part number G4573 which retails for $59.95) and is rated at 17 to 24 amps. (BTW, this is the same switch I have on my 3HP Unisaw.)

So what it comes down to is this: If the old switch can handle the amp draw use it. If not, possibly drop another $60.00 for one that can.

As you might have guessed, I really rather not have to spend this kind of money if I don't really need to. I'm already waaaay over budget for this project.

And I really didn't get to the best part about all this upgrade work I'm doing. Once I've completed all this work, I'm giving this bandsaw to my big brother Joe. I have a Jet 18" bandsaw, and I don't have room for two.

Thanks in advance!

[Jim Becker]

To the best of my knowledge, the stock switch on the Jet 14" bandsaw is just a standard push-button switch...not a magnetic unit. If you want the added safety of a mag switch, you should be able to add one without any problems. If you do keep the existing switch, check the amperage rating on it to be sure it will handle the larger motor you're adding.

[Scott Greaves]

Hi Dominic!

I'm no help either! But when you do finish up this project, please, please, please write up one of your detailed articles about it! I would love to add a 2hp Baldor to my Jet 14" bandsaw, but I could use all the help I can get!

A guess is that you should probably get the better switch. But you may try Ebay for it. There is all kinds of electronic stuff that sells there. I pretty much outfitted all the electrical in my shop off of Ebay!

Good Luck!

Scott.

[Dave Malen]

Hi Dominic,
Jim is right. the standard switch is not magnetic. This probably doesn't help, but for what it's worth I rewired my Jet edge sander to 220 using the standard switch without any problem. Your project is quite ambitious. I too, have been toying with the idea of upgrading by jet 14 inch saw. I was looking at the 1.5 hp lesson motor for about $225. It's the same size as the present 1 hp motor. Good luck with your project. Please tell us how it works out.

Dave

[Mike Cutler]

According to the switch specs,located on the back of the switch, INSIDE THE SWITCH ENCLOSURE ( You have to take the switch apart to find this info). The switch is rated for 18amps at 125VAC. They definitely didn't make this info readily available. I'm with Scott on this one Dominic. I'd also like to see the finished product because I'm seriuosly considering doing something similar. Good Luck

[Sparky Paessler]

Dominic

Most 110V switches are one pole. Meaning they only switch one wire. On 220 I like to use a 2 pole switch to switch both hots. This is much safer.

Sparky

[Ron Meadows]

Dom,

I'm breaking my usual policy of not answering electrical questions. The switch on your bandsaw, if it came from the factory with the option of wiring the motor for either 120V or 240V, is a DPDT switch. This means that the switch disconnects both the black (hot in either application) and white (neutral in 120V, hot in 240V) wires. An easy way to verify this is to remove the switch cover and look at the contacts. You should see 4 wires connected to the switch where as a single pole switch will only have the black wire connected to the switch.

Hope this helps,

Ron

[Mike Cutler]

The Switch on My Jet 14" Bandsaw is a DPDT, break before make, non magnetic latching style switch. 4 leads connect to the back of the switch.Switch labeling internally is A1, A2 & B1, B2. The ground leads for both the power in and load side cables are tied together at a common point , which is tied to the ground wire of the switch enclosure, and subsequently the frame of the machine. Hot and neutral are clearly identified using standard convention I.E Black-Hot, White -Neutral, in the original wiring application of 115vac. The Ground leads are appropiately colored green and this convention is carried out Throughout the wiring "Harness". The only reservation that I would have is the 125VAC rating. "Jet" would have a hard time justifying the voltage interrupt capability rating of the switch if it were wired for 240VAC, if the switch had not been tested for,and labeled for 240VAC use. While the amperage rating of the swich is capable of carrying the current generated in a 240 circuit,the 125VAC rating surprised me. Which bothers me slightly, because Jet clearly shows how to wire this machine for 240VAC in the manual. This is also the same switch on my DC-1100 dust collector and 6" Jointer from Jet. I'm not sure if this is the same switch on my tablesaw. The Electrical Engineers here at work, agree that the switch is capable of carrying the current, but would be hesitant to use it in an application that the SWITCH VENDOR had not certified or tested it in. Bottom line is that I think Dominic may still have to contact Jet to find out if there is an additional certification for use in 240VAC application from the SWITCH VENDOR. My .02 FWIW

[Dominic Greco]

Thanks you all for the information!

I've had a chance to talk with my brother Joe, who is an electrical engineer (PE). After I described the switch, and showed him the schematic, would felt it would work just fine in this application.

But since this bandsaw is eventually going to be his, he will probably add a magnetic switch at a later date just to be on the safe side.

See ya,

[Dominic Greco]

According to the switch specs,located on the back of the switch, INSIDE THE SWITCH ENCLOSURE ( You have to take the switch apart to find this info). The switch is rated for 18amps at 125VAC. They definitely didn't make this info readily available. I'm with Scott on this one Dominic. I'd also like to see the finished product because I'm seriuosly considering doing something similar. Good Luck

Mike,
Thanks for the taking the time to take the switch apart and look inside. I feel stupid that I didn't think of that!

Once I get everything together, I will post something. I still have to finish construction of the case. And last night I just noticed that I made an error and cut the access door opening 1" too wide and tall. This is, of course, after making the frame and panel door! Oh well.