Pen and Bowl finishes

[Jim Podsedly]

Trying to broaden my pen and bowl finishes.

Right now i am using EEE ultra shine and Shellawax for pens. This is what iI learned at my pen making class and just have been using it since.

For bowls I have used the EEE and Shellewax and also have tried Watco Danish oil. Depends on if i want glossy or more natural sheen.

Would like to hear about your favorite types and techniques to finish pens and bowls.

Thanks,
Jim

[Paul Heely]

For pens I used to use a CA/BLO finish (super glue and boiled linseed oil). I find the fumes from the CA too much to take so now only use it to wet sand and fill wood that has a very open grain. I am currently using Enduro for my pens. Have only done a dozen or so with it but so far like it very much.

I've only completed a few bowls so far, have a lot that are drying. On the ones I've completed I used watco and then used my beal buffing system (tripoli, white diamond and carnuba).

[Mike Vickery]

For pens I almost exclusively use CA.
For non food bowls I use simple wipe on wipe off oil finished usually Watco danish oil, Minimax Antique oil, or a homebrew danish oil.
For food safe I use Tried and True Original formula.
Not saying it is right just that it is what I use.

[Patrick Taylor]

I like watco danish oil for bowls, followed by buffing for gloss.

For pens, I fully subscribe to Russ Fairfield's CA/BLO method, and believe that sweat and oil will certainly make shellac break down over time. From what I've read and seen, CA is the most durable finish out there, but I've been hearing about enduro and have not tried it.

[Jim Podsedly]

I like watco danish oil for bowls, followed by buffing for gloss.

For pens, I fully subscribe to Russ Fairfield's CA/BLO method, and believe that sweat and oil will certainly make shellac break down over time. From what I've read and seen, CA is the most durable finish out there, but I've been hearing about enduro and have not tried it.

Maybe this is a stupid question but here goes.

Don't your bushings get all messed up with the CA glue?

I think the CA/BLO finish is one i will be trying.



thanks,
Jim

[Brent Dowell]

I use a little wax paper between the bushings and the pen blank. Just makes seperating a bit easier.

And the CA on the bushings? Nothing a little acetone soak can't fix.

[Patrick Taylor]

And the CA on the bushings? Nothing a little acetone soak can't fix.

Exactly! I soak mine in a little container of nail polish remover for a few minutes and then wipe of the gunk. No big deal.

Others make delrin bushings for finishing, or just turn between a dead center and live center with no bushings or mandrel during the CA application. Whatever floats your boat. Have a look at the penturners.org library for different methods of CA finishing.

[Sparky Paessler]

My favorite finish for pens is to soak them in poly and pull a vacuum on the jar. This causes the finish to pentrate all of the wood. Like blanks that have been stablized. The finish never wears off this way and the blanks turn better also. You can see my setup here http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=24139

[Frank Kobilsek]

Jim

I apparently am not smart enough for the BLO/CA finish so for pens and stoppers I still use thinned Deft/EEE/Mylands/Trewax

Bowls & platters:
For arty-er pieces Watco Danish or Minwax Antique Oil, buffed

For useful bowls - Mahoney's Walnut oil followed by his wax. I really like his finish especially on Walnut, Cherry or hard maple

I try to use finishes I can by at my local hardware store. Nothing worse than opening a can to find it has kick over hard and now I have to wait till I can drive 100 miles to Woodcraft or order something in the mail. Most hardware store owners will source thing for you if you ask.

Frank

[Bernie Weishapl]

Have been using strictly CA without the BLO. Seems to work better for me. I have also started using Enduro Sanding Sealer/Enduro finish. It takes longer than the CA but just as nice a finish.

[Jim Becker]

One of the few Minwax products I buy is their Antique Oil Finish specifically for finishing bowls. I use an on-lathe wiping/friction technique to "push" the finish so I can get a lot of coats on at one sitting and then buff out a week or so later. I rarely turn pens, so I can't help much there.

[Steve Trauthwein]

A good trick with the bushings that will prevent ca from adhering them to the blank, just before you do your ca finish loosen everything on the mandrel and hit the end of each bushing with a stick of bees wax. I just turn the bushing with my hand and do little swipes until I am back to the start. No more sticking to the blank.

I had hit and miss success with the blo/ca finish myself, so now I just use ca. I apply two coats of thin and three coats of thick with the lathe turning at 500 rpms. I apply the ca with a strip of viva paper towel that has been folded a number of times to keep from gluing my hand to the towel (been there, done that). The thin is pretty easy, with the thick it just takes a little practice to apply and use a couple of leveling swipes. I then sand 400 to 1200 and micro mesh from 2400 to 12000.

The only time I ever have any difficulty with this finish is in porous wood, then I will use a sanding sealer first. What happens to me with ebony is I will get what seems to be a perfect finish and then a week or month later it will cloud. I think it is the oil in the wood. I have been trying to use sealer on this with varying success. Your mileage may vary.

Regards, Steve