Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Trouble with BLO/CA

  1. #1

    Trouble with BLO/CA

    I've used BLO/CA a few times with great results. But my last 3 pens all have the same problem. They look right as they come off the lathe, but after I assemble and they have been sitting for a day or so some of the finish seems to just be gone. There are rough spots, as if the CA had receded. These spots are most often on one end or the other of the blank. Anyone have this problem before?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,875
    Are you letting the BLO cure before you apply the CA? That's like a week or so...when the smell goes away, the oil is cured.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Are you letting the BLO cure before you apply the CA? That's like a week or so...when the smell goes away, the oil is cured.
    I never let the BLO cure before applying CA. I follow Russ Fairfield's method, like many others, so I don't think this is an issue. I suspect a sanding/polishing issue, where the whole thing looks great in one light, but when you get into another light you can see spots with less luster. It's common for CA finishes I think if you're not careful to sand and polish thoroughly after doing your last CA coat.

    Just my opinion.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    SE PA - Central Bucks County
    Posts
    65,875
    NP...I was using conventional thought in my question...which likely doesn't apply!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #5
    Jim, your comment actually makes me wonder what's happening inside that waterproof/airtight layer of CA if BLO has not cured. Does it ever cure? I think the BLO gets mixed in with the wet CA during the application, and perhaps the CA chemical reaction or exotherm has some curing effect on the BLO? This is all speculation, and I wonder if anyone knows the right answer!


    (sorry to hijack, Nicholas, but I think we're still on topic!)

  6. #6
    A few months ago, Russ penned a rather lengthy discussion over on IAP about whether you should use BLO first and then CA, or CA first and then BLO. It was very technical, very specific, and way over my head! But the bottom line is that he recommends CA first and then BLO. His results speak for themselves.

    I understand it would be a TOS violation to post a link to that other place. Maybe Russ could do a cut-and-paste here on SMC? (hint, hint)
    Working for a living is really starting to interfere with my hobbies!

  7. #7
    Thanks for the replies guys. My biggest frustration is that I have done a good BLO/CA finish in the past. Some of them came out very nice. Not sure what I'm doing different. Perhaps the brand of CA? I usually do about 3 coats, sanding from MM 2400 - 12000 in between each coat. I've also noticed that my recent pens have a softer finish, it is easy to leave a dent on them with your finger nail. I suppose this could be due to the type of wood though.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2006
    Location
    Gilbert, AZ
    Posts
    396
    When I first started with that method I had that happen a couple times. Now I always friction dry the BLO and usually let it set overnight before CA goes on. I also found that more, thinner coats of CA works better than a few thick ones.
    After changing my method I have never had a finish go bad.
    Now only if I could get the same consistancy on bowl finishing.
    Kevin
    Insert witty saying here.

  9. #9
    Thanks for the tip Kevin. Now that you mention it, I think I was using medium CA before, and now I am using think. I'll try some of the old stuff and see how it comes out.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Rio Rancho, NM
    Posts
    2,568
    Nicholas, you might also try sealing the BLO with shellac, then going to the CA.

    Nancy (121 days)
    Nancy Laird
    Owner - D&N Specialties, Rio Rancho, New Mexico
    Woodworker, turner, laser engraver; RETIRED!
    Lasers - ULS M-20 (20W) & M-360 (40W), Corel X4 and X3
    SMC is user supported. http://www.sawmillcreek.org/donate.php
    ___________________________
    It's nice to be important, but it's more important to be nice.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Atlantic City New Jersey
    Posts
    1,066
    My can of BLO states the oil is absorbed into the wood and excess should be wiped off or it will cause a "GUMMY MESS".

Similar Threads

  1. Ipe Finish trouble
    By larry merlau in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 6
    Last Post: 12-22-2006, 10:51 AM
  2. lacquer trouble:(
    By larry merlau in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 09-28-2006, 9:50 AM
  3. Garage Door / Opener trouble
    By Art Mulder in forum Off Topic Forum
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 08-22-2006, 10:04 PM
  4. jatoba-brazillian cherry trouble
    By larry merlau in forum Project Finishing
    Replies: 5
    Last Post: 03-24-2006, 12:27 PM
  5. Grizzly shipping trouble?
    By Mark Rios in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 33
    Last Post: 02-25-2006, 12:03 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •