Wood countertop question

[Jeff Monson]

Decided to try my first attempt at wood countertops. Would paint grade soft maple be a good choice for the countertops? Or should I rethink the choice? The trim in the kitchen is poplar that is stained with a water based dye, the countertop will have the same dye applied, that is why I was thinking soft maple.
This will be a long grain glue up, 1.5" thick, 25" deep.

Also what is the best finish for countertops? I can spray or hand apply.

[Sam Murdoch]

Jeff are you building a wood counter for the kitchen sink area? The answer will effect most following replies. My first thought otherwise is that a soft wood top will completely depend on the finish to be resistant to abuse. A hard maple top can be left unfinished (not suggesting that) and still look good years from now because the material itself is just more resistant to abuse. I have built plank tops for kitchens out of pine, hard maple, teak, walnut and cherry and they all served the purpose well. You and family have to agree on the level of use your c-top will get - just food prep? - a place to plop all your gear when you come in from soccer? - a cutting surface? etc. etc. If you are inclined to use maple, I would definitely upgrade to hard maple, just because .

As for finish - I admit that I haven't been in a spray booth for nearly a decade now and so am out of touch with current state of the art. I think it is still safe to say that most sprayed finishes do no lend themselves to easy repair in the field (read - in a working kitchen). There have been quite a few recent post running here in The Creek about the use, benefits and deficiencies of Waterlox, a tung oil finish. I am a huge fan of Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish. Accept no substitutes, in the Waterlox family. Some guys write with high praise for Behlen's, but I haven't used it so can't say. The Original Sealer/Finish is easy to apply and unbelievably rugged and resistant to water and the average household chemicals once it has cured, and is easy to repair. I apply it liberally with a brush and build up 3 coats. The down side is that is does require a full 24 hours between coats and at least 1 week of dry time after the last coat before you can put your c-top into "light service". After 3 weeks you've got a real solid c-top. After 3 months you can have a dance on the thing.

Well, so here is a start to the conversation ...

[Andrew Pitonyak]

I used waterlox for a table I built to put next to a wash basin and cloths washing machine. Looks AWESOME!