Less Alternative to Freud Super Dado?

[Pat Germain]

^^ Thanks, Jim. I recall reading something about this on another thread, but I didn't know my saw was one of the problem machines.

I'll check my arbor. I can likely live with the problem. I guess I could fill the hole with some body plastic or something similar.

[Jim Becker]

Pat, I don't know if your saw is one of the affected models, but it immediately came to mind when you mentioned it was a Craftsman. And only a small "defect" will cause the problem you cite.

[Perry Schmidt]

A few years ago I bought the Dewalt Dado set. I really like it. Nice kit, good blades and the dados have very smooth bottoms. I think it's easily as good as or better than the Freud, but much cheaper.

I don't know what they cost now, but got mine for around $110. That was when they were new and were really trying to get them in the market.

I've had good luck w/ Dewalt's woodworking blades. I bought another one a year later (rip blade) and haven't used it much, but when I have a very nice blade. I really like their blades better than Freud - which I've used a lot in the past. Still can't beat a Forrest though

Perry

[Ryan Hovis]

In your later post you make reference to the fact you are using a Craftsman contractors' style saw. There is a known issue with the arbor on some saws from that vendor where an unfortunately placed groove on the arbor causes one of the components of the stacked dado set to be out of center, thus causing a noticeable anomaly much as you describe. The only solutions are to "fill the hole" or replace the arbor with one that had the issue resolved. This problem is not brand specific relative to the stacked dado set...

That explains the same exact problem I have with my Craftsman contractor saw and 6" dado set.

Good excuse to get a better saw

[Mike Goetzke]

If you go to the Jungle they have 20% off on the set you want!

[Jim Kountz]

The only solutions are to "fill the hole" or replace the arbor with one that had the issue resolved. This problem is not brand specific relative to the stacked dado set...

Actually there are quite a number of easy solutions. A cheaper and much easier solution would be a dado clean out bit for the router. You can get one from MLCS (just google MLCS router bits if you dont already have their website bookmarked). They do a great job at flattening and cleaning out the bottom of a dado or rabbit.
A simple router plane works good as does a nice cranked neck chisel.

Jim

[Jim Becker]

Jim, that's kinda what I was referring to when I said, 'The "inside" of the dado, groove or rabbit is of less consequence since it doesn't show most of the time and can be easily cleaned if necessary after the fact.' at the end of my post that you quoted from. That said, there may be some times when that cutting anomaly might be problematic if it's causing a dip, rather than a ridge, right where it would show on the project.

[Jim Kountz]

That said, there may be some times when that cutting anomaly might be problematic if it's causing a dip, rather than a ridge, right where it would show on the project.

Jim,
True true, one would have to take into account the amount of "dip" or "ridge" whichever the case may be for their saw when making the cut so as to leave enough "meat" in there to correct or flatten the dado. Either way its a quick and easy fix for the Op's problem.

[Pat Germain]

I took a look at my saw arbor and it appears I do indeed have the problem with a groove in it. It causes excess play where the first chipper sits on the arbor. I was able to reduce the problem by putting the dado shims over this area. Of course, this won't be possible if I'm not using shims for a cut.

I can't imagine why the arbor was machined this way. How difficult is it to obtain and install a new arbor? The problem it's creating is no big deal for me now, but it may be a problem in the future. My saw is over ten years old. I doubt parts are still available for it.

[Pat Germain]

If you go to the Jungle they have 20% off on the set you want!

Thanks, Mike, but I already picked up a Freud dado set at Woodcraft. It was 15% off, which was nice considering I was able immediately walk out the door with it.

[Larry Prince]

LOML has been dogging me hard to make more bookshelves and such. My current dado blade is a real POJ and, after many years of use, I'm sure it's quite dull to boot. I need to get a very nice dado plade pronto! (FYI, I've tried making dados with my router and really didn't like it. I don't have a router table; yet.)

I'd like to buy a Freud Super Dado. However, I'm somewhat reluctant to pony up the $200 which is the price everywhere I've looked (including Amazon.com). Can anyone recommend a suitable, less-expensive alternative?

The last time I was at my local Woodcraft store, the sales rep recommended a CMT dado set. It listed for $167, but at that price, I would feel better going with the Freud SD for $30 more. I can probably cough up $200 if that's the best solution. However, I want to be sure of this before I do do.

Thanks!

There are any number of cheaper alternatives out there but i suggest you strongly consider the Freud Dial-A-Width set. It's $40 more than the SD, but I can guarantee that once you use it you will never cry over the dollars spent.

The hassle and time of setups is almost totally eliminated and the cut is glass smooth on the sides and the bottoms are dead flat.

At $240 (Amazon) it's pricey but like all quality tools its a real joy to own and use.

[Ron Blaise]

Model H7777 ($50.00). I can't believe the performance I got with it for the price. This is a 3/4 x 1/4 deep dado cross-grain in Walnut. Not bad at all in my book.

[scott spencer]

I took a look at my saw arbor and it appears I do indeed have the problem with a groove in it. It causes excess play where the first chipper sits on the arbor. I was able to reduce the problem by putting the dado shims over this area. Of course, this won't be possible if I'm not using shims for a cut.

I can't imagine why the arbor was machined this way. How difficult is it to obtain and install a new arbor? The problem it's creating is no big deal for me now, but it may be a problem in the future. My saw is over ten years old. I doubt parts are still available for it.

The problem first showed up with the Craftsman saws, then flaired up again with the Ryobi made Ridgid 3650. The problem either originated with Emerson or Ryobi...not sure which, b/c Ryobi started making the Ridgid for Emerson and may have inhereted the arbors from them. Do you know who made your saw or what year it was made? If Emerson, it's pre-1997 and would start with 113....if Ryobi, it's post 1997 and would begin with 315 IIRC, but am not certain. Either way, I agree it's a silly mistake to miss, and even sillier to see it resurface several years later!

It's possible that the arbors are interchangeable. JB Weld has been posted as a very acceptable and easy solution.

Here's a pic of the arbors:
arbor.jpg

[Chuck Lenz]

There are any number of cheaper alternatives out there but i suggest you strongly consider the Freud Dial-A-Width set. It's $40 more than the SD, but I can guarantee that once you use it you will never cry over the dollars spent.

The hassle and time of setups is almost totally eliminated and the cut is glass smooth on the sides and the bottoms are dead flat.

At $240 (Amazon) it's pricey but like all quality tools its a real joy to own and use.

Sounds like a nice set, but my question is, can the set be resharpened ? And if so at what cost ? I use to have a Craftsman Excalibur dial a width dado that no one could repair and resharpen. That blade cost me $90 when it was new. Needless to say I wasn't happy about it. Thats when I bought the Freud SD208 stacked dado set. I wished I had bought the Freud from the start, much better cuts and is repairable and can be resharpened.

[Don Wurscher]

I have a 60's vintage Craftsmans saw with a ShopFox fence.

I solved the problem, by stacking a couple of blade stiffeners next to the arbor shoulder. The problem is the thread is under cut just after the 5/8" lip on the arbor. This causes the next cutter to not center.

Granted with my technique you lose some max width, but this has cured my problem.

Another thing to keep in mind, is if you using a "0" templete, you must cut a new one as the stiffeners shift spacing.

Don W