[OP]
Member
Has this ever happened to anybody?
Roughing the outside of a bowl and BAM!!!!!!!!!!
What a shocker. I did not get a scrape or anything. WHEW!!!
This is a very new gouge from Woodcraft. I just sent an email to the customer service at Woodcraft. We'll see what they say.
Is this typical for a pinnacle gouge?
Jim
Contributor
Jim,
Roughing gouges are meant for spindle work not bowls............
Check out this warning from CSUSA...
http://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/wo...uge_safety.pdf
A bowl gouge has the same diameter shaft as the tool portion going back into the handle. Spindle gouges or a roughing gouge taper down into a tang as shown in your photo and they are weaker. That is why they are not recommended for bowl work. I hope you weren't injured when it snapped!
Ken
So much to learn, so little time.....
[OP]
Member
Ken,
I would understand not to use when roughing out a bowl core but the when roughing the outside of the bowl, too?
jim
[OP]
Member
I guess i will be ordering some bowl gouges!Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald
Thanks for the link to CSUSA.
jim
Member
Jim, I would check with Pinnacle or Woodcraft. That steel looks defective to me. The give away is that there is no apparent stress to the wood in the handle.
Success is the sum of Failure and Learning
Member
Jim, glad you didn't get hurt. Please be sure to post the result of your customer service inquiries.
Member
I'm like Jim, can they not be used to rough the outside of a bolw into a blank? To me it seems that was what he was stating. I would think that it's not a problem if you are roughing the outside, but never stick a roughing gouge into a bowl!!
Be a mentor, it's so much more fun throwing someone else into the vortex, than swirling it alone!
Member
This looks like a Sorby roughing gouge that did the same thing for me. I was using it to rough a small portion of log in spindle mode. Woodcraft told me that I could send it back to Sorby directly but they were not likely to do anything about it as the damage was not caused by defective material. I replaced it with a P&N roughing gouge. That thing is a beast.
Contributor
I don't know I'd use a roughing gouge to begin on a bowl blank. Depending on the blank you go from end grain to long. This would certainly chatter. I guess it's possible but I don't know I'd recommend it. a bite into end grain could cause it to catch and the wider surface area of a roughing gouge to a smaller tang in the handle could cause this very thing.
A good bowl gouge will do the trick.
Glad you're ok, flying metal does wonder to skin, especially when sharp !
"The element of competition has never worried me, because from the start, I suppose I realized wood contains so much inspiration and beauty and rhythm that if used properly it would result in an individual and unique object." - James Krenov
What you do speaks so loud, I cannot hear what you say. -R. W. Emerson
Member
Roughing gouges aren't designed to take the stresses that a bowl gouge is. Look at how small the tang on the gouge is and compare it to any bowl gouge.
That being said, I did break a Sorby bowl gouge. I had a bad catch and the gouge was over extended. It broke in the middle of the flute.
May all your turnings be smooth,
Brodie Brickey
Member
I use a p&n roughing gouge on the outside of most of my bowls and hf's but that is one stout roughing gouge
Bob
Member
Ok I have a solution!! forget all these high priced roughing gouges and get a set of HF tools with the roughing gouge included. All the abuse I've given mine and the only worry I've had is broken handles.
Success is the sum of Failure and Learning
[OP]
Member
Woodcraft is sending out a new gouge tomorrow.
They said it looks defective and no other questions asked.
Jim
Moderator
I'm glad they're replacing it for you, Jim. But do remember that these things are now "semi-officially" called "spindle roughing gouges" and should never be used for work that the grain of the material is across the axis of the lathe spindle--face-plate orientation...IE, most bowls. They are designed for work where the grain of the wood is parallel to the lathe spindle...IE spindles and "some" smaller hollow forms. This presents the edge of the tool such that it peels the material away which is a far less stressful operation than you get when cutting face-plate oriented material. The tang of the tool is very small...and using it on bowls is very similar to using a 1/4" shank router bit to hog out an inch of material in one pass. (snap...)
--
The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Moderator
Jim - WOW! Glad to hear you are OK and also that Woodcraft is replacing the gouge for you! Please take Ken's advice and use a bowl gouge from now on. Catches happen in even the best of situations and a bowl gouge is built to handle the additional stresses. Have fun - turn safe!
Steve
“You never know what you got til it's gone!”
Please don’t let that happen!
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