Alex - "Your interest in an Oliver"
Alex,
I would get over there and do a visual and mechanical inspection on that Oliver- take some pictures. look at everything on the lathe - ask them to run it through every process, i.e. step pulley, motor speed, carriage ~ power carriage, tail stock Quill movement, plate attachments , inboard and outboard - run to look for wobbles, #4 Morse taper tools in both ends ` check for wobbles -before you check the bed ~ it may have been installed improperly (leveled-twisted bed) . - bring a good level and check from the front to back trueness ~ perpendicular to the length of the bed-If the bed is twisted you will not get an accurate line up with the tail stock ~ It does not mean the bed is out of centering (warped) it needs to be leveled properly - this is a vital part of setting this lathe up, very,very important. If the bed is leveled and true then you can proceed to check the entire bed length for centering.
Here's what you need to do- it's very simple:
PICTURE 1 ~ Throw the drive spur in the headstock spindle and the live/dead center in the tail stock Quill ~ move the tail stock close to the headstock, the points being 10" away from each other, crank out the quill on the tail stock till the points are a 32nd of an inch away from each other, you are Lining up the tail stock live/dead spur end (doesn't matter) with the drive spur in the headstock spindle to check for centering alignment - if they don't line up to each other horizontally there is an offset nut at the front of the tail stock and may have been out of adjustment with out them knowing it-crank the nut in either direction until you line both points up using the off set nut adjustment ,once you get them both aligned PICTURE 2 ~ then back off the quill all the way and move the tail stock up close to the drive spur point - both points should line up again,(this checks for slop in the quill as well) , ~ Move the tail stock all the way to the end of the lathe -your locked in at dead center now with the tail stock. PICTURE 3 ~ put a the tool shank and a bit in the post on the carriage , move the 1st tier (lower tier) in to the drive spur point, move the tool holder shank with the bit in and adjust it so it is in line with the point on the drive spur, then lock the tool shank with the top nut on the tool holder, once that is aligned ,centered, back off the lower tier until you can't back it up any further, now move the top tier up until you align the tool bit with the drive spur point again, you may have to move the 1st tier in a little if it doesn't reach ~ ( your checking both tiers for accuracy) if that lines up - your good at the headstock end- after that, PICTURE 4 ~ move the carriage all the way down the other end to the tail stock live/dead point , do the same - 1st tier~ then the second tier , if you line up the tool bit with the point of the live/dead point - your true , PICTURE 5 ~ you can check the bed through out the whole length of the bed this way starting from the tail stock going in 1 ft increments with the tail stock point from the end of the bed to the headstock to check for accuracy.
Regarding your questions:
As far as the Head stock spindle - No you won't have to replace it- but I am answering a blind question - can you get pictures of the lathe and give me some more information about the lathe? Tail stock-the quill I think is what you meant- no that won’t have to be replaced. I think you are referring to the tooling that goes in either end. They are a #4 Morse taper housing. You can get adapters down to a #2 Morse taper, but if you plan on turning heavy large objects that his lathe is capable of- don't use #2's - safety issue! Here are some questions you should ask:
1.) What year was it made?
2.) Is the bearing configuration, Babbitt or Ball bearing?
2a) Is there any play in the headstock spindle/and the quill in the tailstock?
3.) What tooling comes with it?
4.) Is there a carriage included with the lathe-do both tiers on the carriage move freely and is there play, side to side and lateral movement in the slide channels?
5.) What condition is the bed in- is it true from end to end (looking for bow or excessive worn areas)?
6.) Is it the original motor on the lathe or is it a replaced motor, what are the specs- 3 hp,5hp, , 220v or 440? If the original motor is still there it is likely a 3ph motor and could be either 220v or 440v motor. If not it could have been replaced with a single phase motor or 3ph with the same specifications as the original- find out!
6a). Is there a Variable frequency drive that has been added?
7.) Is there a powered carriage feed with this model, separate motor attached to the carriage or is it a acme shaft working off of the headstock spindle and does that work, are there any problems with this area?
8.) Is it being used currently?
9.) what is the reason for selling the lathe?
10.) Is there any original literature/manual with the lathe- any documentation that comes with the lathe/ any history of where it has been and how they acquired the lathe?
11.) Any receipts, repairs or updates that have documentation-proof?
12.) Is there any surface rust on the lathe and where is it?
When you get into this type of lathe - your entering a totally different category- This lathe is some pretty serious equipment Alex- It doesn't get any better than an Oliver (but that's coming from someone that owns one-a little biased maybe)- but there are things you need to look at before you take the plunge.
if you can get more information- I’ll be glad to help you out. See if you can get some pictures as well.
Brian
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. Make sure that there is absolutely no play in that spindle-slop in the housing, and I mean none! those are tapered bearings I believe they may be able to be adjusted snugly if loose , I am not positive about that-I don't have the information about your lathe yet ~Oliver changed there designs on the bearings ,but Minor changes ,with how there housed with certain models and in different years ,but only once, like I said without any other information I really can't give you an educated opinion- get as much information as you can and PM me or list it on this thread. sounds good already! Once you get the information gathered and pictures , find out what they want and I can give you a better idea of what your looking to spend. Keep in mind- these lathes go for booko bucks if in exceptional running condition. they may just want to get rid of it to clear some room and no reasonable offer will be turned down. Keep the information you have about the location of the lathe to yourself if you want a chance of owning it. As far as moving it- I know all about what that experience is like- it was very intimidating rolling around 2 tons of mass but I can help you out with that- not a problem - and NO - you don't have to pay someone to move that Oliver ~ when you get to that point well talk, first off - see if that's your new lathe- and what a lathe you'll have! the Mercedes of all pattern lathes! 