Jointech/Clincher/Smartfence questions

[Brian Knodel]

The system arrived last week safe and sound all the way from Texas to Canada. A pretty intimidating system for a first time user and I realize I have to spend way more time in the user manual. Cutting regular dovetails are not a problem as long as there is a supplied template. But right of the bat I have to route dovetails as shown in the top left diagram and as there are no templates for this type of spaced dovetail I'm at a loss where to begin.

Some other questions:

If the stock is ¾ inch thick, must I used a ¾ inch bit?

What are the incremental templates for as I found no reference to them in the manual, but possibly they could be used to figure out oddly spaced joints and my problem.

Thanks
<O
Brian

[JayStPeter]

I think there are some templates for uneven spaces of pins and tails there. But, there is also another answer and you'll have to play with the system to figure it out exactly. You can skip through the evenly spaced templates. For example, you can choose to use only every other red mark. Then go back and cut every black mark and the red marks you skipped on the other piece.
My best suggestion is to cut some practice joints and mark them as to where you would like more wood added/removed. Then reinstall and see where you would have to cut or not cut the piece to get the spacing you desire. You can get some non symmetric patterns, but you can't change the spacing of the pins away from being an even multiple of the basic spacing for that template.
The joint diagrams in the book are full scale. So, you can take the actual side piece for your cabinet and lay it on the drawings. This can also help you visualize which marks to use/not use. You will probably also have to play around with left vs. right on the pieces to make sure you orient them correctly. It can all be done, just do it on scrap to get comfortable with the operation before committing to expensive wood.
I hope this makes some sense.

Jay St. Peter

[JayStPeter]

Silly me, I forgot that there is software out there to generate custom templates for incra/jointech systems. Google "dovetail template generator". It generates a printable template that will slip right on in the jig. I've used one of the versions of it before and it worked well. Since I already have the understanding of how to skip around on the jointech templates, I haven't needed it. But your assymetrical layouts may be a perfect application.

Jay

[Michael Ballent]

You can also get the Master Refrence book

http://www.woodpeck.com/accessories.html#34

and they have a Project book that has some templates, but I do not know if the templates from both books overlap...

*EDIT*
Did not realize that you had the Jointech setup... Not sure if these will be of any value to you.

[JayStPeter]

You can also get the Master Refrence book

http://www.woodpeck.com/accessories.html#34

and they have a Project book that has some templates, but I do not know if the templates from both books overlap...

*EDIT*
Did not realize that you had the Jointech setup... Not sure if these will be of any value to you.

It's funny you mention that. The Incra and Jointech templates are interchangeable between the systems. They each slide into the others system perfectly. The Jointech templates are color coded and are easier to use for the beginner. The Incra templates are easier when you want to vary the pin/tail sizes. I'll explain. The jointech templates simplify things by using red and black lines for each cut. The red is for cuts on the pin board and the black on the tail board (or I might have this reversed, in some cases it matters and some it doesn't). Anyway, the Incra has numbers and letters for each pin/tail pair. That is 5A and 5B each represent a cut. A could be on the tail board and B on the pin board or vice-versa. It depends on how you align the template with the center. If you want to vary the spacing or leave some extra thickness on the ends .. etc., you just come up with a "cut list". So, for even spacing the cut list would be 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A for one board and 1B, 2B, 3B, 4B for the next. To vary the spacing you would simply change your cut list to 1A, 1B, 2B, 3A, 4A, 4B for one board and 2A, 3B ... for the other. That would give you double width. With the jointech, you really have to put a piece of tape on the clincher and mark your cuts in situ. I usually did that with the Incra anyway, but I could write down notes easier to duplicate my setup if necessary. When I first got the Jointech I considered buying a set of the Incra templates, but I haven't found a situation where I can't do what I want with the Jointech templates in some manner. But, I have to admit, I spent a lot more time just playing around with joinery on the Incra system.

Jay

[Brian Knodel]

Thanks very much for the tips all I'm slowly getting it

Spent all afternoon fiddling with the Jointech router system and finally came up with these ¼ inch dovetails in ¼ inch willow. System works fine except if you go by the book all dovetails will be quite proud and need a fair bit of sanding which would require adding on the sanded off dimension to the stock. I'll have to refine this a bit.
<O
Brian

[Brian McCutcheon]

I know I'm replying to an old post but I'm new and can't post new. Hopefully you are now quite proficient with your jointech and can help me out. My clincher system is not clinching properly and seems to have too much play when the threads are engaged. Seems to me that the clincher handle should have the same resistance going into the open as well as closed mode. Mine is stiff going open and very light going into the engaged mode. I can't see any adjustment screws for this so think there may be a missing part. Is there a parts diagram for this beast? Any help would be most appreciated.

[Larry Heflin]

Brian,

I have the Jointech CabinetMaker's System. I have not used it in quite a while, but I pulled it off the wall to see if I could come up with an answer. Mine works as I remember it. I don't have a parts diagram. All I have it the large (17 x 11) "Reference Handbook and Template Collection"
In the introduction it mentions the three Cam-Handle Clamp Positions.
1) Handle UPRIGHT- Carriage is released from leadscrew for full movement over its range. I.e. it slides freely.
2) Handle 45 DEGREES - Position to make micro-adjustments with thumbwheel. The movement is so small that without the ruler in place I hardly notice it, but it is moving on mine.
3) Handle DOWN -Carriage is fully locked in place for a cutting operation.

I can plainly feel the handle's cam engage/disengage in positions 1 & 3. In position 2 it's quite loose.
There's a brief comment about reducing gib tension by adjusting the two outer #10-32 socket cap screws on the base. They determine the freedom of Clincher movement in the unclamped state."gib adjustment screws" at the base.

I'll just try to insert a scan of that part of the manual. (Don't know what this will look like.) If the upload is no good PM me and I'll send it to you privately. If I'm not even in the ballpark, just disregard. Anyway, hope this helps.
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