"Right Stuff"

[Rick Dohm]

I'm still confused by the discussion over the "right" plane to use on figured wood to prevent chipping. Some seem to prefer low angle and others higher angle. If one wanted to, is it possible to get higher or lower pitched frogs for vintage planes (say a Stanley #4), is there a source, or is that a pipe dream?

Also, is there a "right" TPI for an all-purpose backsaw, or should one acquire different saws for M&T, DT, etc.? If so, are there preferred TPIs for each?

Still learning, but getting smarter everyday!

Rick Dohm

[Zahid Naqvi]

The rule of thumb about figured wood and planing is that the bedding angle should be in direct proportion to the figure. That is to say higher the figure higher the bedding angle of the plane and vice versa. Keep in mind the fact that the lowest bedding angles produce the smoothest surface. For really nasty burl type stuff use a card scraper, cabinet scraper or a scraper plane. Do not discount the use of sand paper if all else fails.
Instead of bedding angle you can create the same effect by putting a bevel on the back side of your plane blade. For example a #4 with a 45 degree bedding, bevel down blade, with a back bevel of 10 degree results in a 55 degree contact angle between blade and wood.

You will need separate saws for each type of joinery. It makes a huge difference in the end result. The right tools for the right job will produce best results, although craftsmen with significant expertise can use tools in quite versatile ways. Mike, Bob et al. can tell you exactly what type of saw is needed for what job, I am only good for motivational speeches

[mike holden]

Rick,
Do NOT get hung up over the "best" - it is all relative, every piece of wood is different. Really good woodworkers have gotten along for years with only a single frog angle, sharpening the blade, and when all else fails using a scraper in the rough spots.
Buy a quality plane, learn to sharpen it, use it for a while and when you need to move on to more exotics, you will know - and it wont be because you HAVE to, but because you WANT to!
Same with the handsaw, get a quality dovetail saw, and dont worry about configuration. Use it till YOU feel you could get an improvement with something else. At that point YOU will have a very good idea of what you need for the work YOU do. (You CAN use a dovetail saw for tenons or general cutting - heresy, I know, but you CAN!)
Mike

Planes - my recommendation is for either lie-nielsen or Lee Valley, bevel up or down, your choice.

Saws - my recommendation is for Wenzloff, lie-nielsen, adria, or Gramercy

None of the recommendation are in any order, other than as they came to mind. I own a tool from all the companies mentioned except adria.

[Eddie Darby]

The wilder the grain in a piece of wood, the steeper the angle of attack.

The best and easiest angle for simple, easy, straight forward planing, is the lower angles, then as the grain gets tougher, the angle must be increased.

The Bevel Up planes allow you to pursue all these angles with a changing of the blade. Perfect for someone on a budget.

The other thing that will help in wild grain, is a tighter mouth opening on the plane. Otherwise if the wood isn't too demanding on the cut, then a liberal opening is fine, and helps to keep the plane from choking with shavings.

As you go to a steeper angle of attack, you change the way the chips form in the operation of cutting them. The problem with low angles of attack is that a crack can run ahead of the cutting, and is free to raise havoc. As you get steeper you need to push harder, but the chips break in the plane sooner as they are forced to ride up the steeper blade. This keeps them from running all over the place. The tighter mouth helps to keep downward pressure on the wood, just ahead of where it is being cut, so that a crack is less likely to break free ahead of the cut.

[Marcus Ward]

Back bevels on regular plane blades allow you to pursue changes in angle without buying a new plane also.

[Rick Dohm]

Thanks for the advice. If one wanted to experiment, can the blade in a bevel down bench plane be turned over and be "made into" a bevel up, or does the plane have to be built for one or the other? If so, you could have several blades cut to different angles as Eddie suggests. If not, I guess you could still try it with different backside bevels as Zahid suggests. I know good technique will always overcome the shortcomings in tools. It just seems prudent to be try to be sure you've asked the right questions BEFORE you screw up a nice piece of wood.

And Mike, I'll check out those saw makers. I recall seeing the Wenzloff name bragged up on this site. I was hoping to get lucky on ebay for starters, though.

Rick

[Zahid Naqvi]

No hard in flipping a blade and making it bevel up, but keep in mind that it will increase the mouth opening considerably. Just try it and you will see what I mean.

[mike holden]

Rick,
You did not hear this from me, but, go to the local woodworking store and buy an inexpensive japanese saw. Most of the performance, little of the cost.
I have lie-nielsen and the new Gramercy dovetail saws, but still reach for my cheap japanese when cutting thin material.
Mike