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Thread: Building a box: How to attach the bottom?

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Macon, GA
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    Building a box: How to attach the bottom?

    I am familiar with some of the techniques on how to make boxes but looking for some advice.

    I am making a box that is about 26(L) X 10 (W) X 15 (D). I plan to dovetail all four corners but my main question is how to attach the bottom and top....but....there is a catch. The bottom must be flush with the sides of the box and also needs to be strong enough to hold 30 pounds or so. The top needs to be flush too but obviously does not need to be as strong as it will not be holding the weight. The box will be picked up with handles on the sides. I am working with 1/2 stock (walnut, cherry, maple--haven't picked out the exact wood yet) but can make the bottom 3/4 if that is suggested.

    I am familiar with a few different techniques, but wanted to get some opinons. Right now I've narrowed it down to using dowels, splines, or a rabbets but there may be techniques I have not thought of.

    Any and all suggestions welcomed.

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
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    St. Louis
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    3,349
    Tongue and groove joint (tongue on the bottom - groove on the sides) with the bottom flush to the sides?

    Never built a box with the bottom flush, but thats the first thing that comes to mind.
    Where did I put that tape measure...

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I like Gary's idea if you meant flush with the bottoms of the sides.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Macon, GA
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    Yeah, I mean the bottom needs to be flush with the sides. I am making the lid removable so I can then flip the bottom over and use it as a display base. Thanks for the suggestions.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
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    I asked the same question last summer on this thread and ended up following Todd's post on that thread
    http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=38115
    It worked out great.
    Use the fence Luke

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    T&G for the bottom still allows for a flush bottom, too, as you can off-set the tongue by making it a rebate around the edge of the bottom piece. Size/thickness according to your needs.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
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    Ipswich, Ma
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    What they all said. That was my first impression too.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Mohr View Post
    Yeah, I mean the bottom needs to be flush with the sides. I am making the lid removable so I can then flip the bottom over and use it as a display base. Thanks for the suggestions.
    Ahh I'd make a dado on the inside of the sides and mount the bottom in that dado fully capturing it. To get the bottom to be flush I'd make the dado smaller than the thickness of the bottom and rabbit the bottom part all round so that when it's inserted the dado and rabbit work together to bring the bottom of the base flush with the bottoms of the sides.


    (these days I think they call a rabbit joint a rebate joint some folks call it a shoulder)

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    La Salle, IL.
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    How about using a dado and a false bottom?

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2005
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    La Salle, IL.
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    144
    Sorry, forgot I was reading ah old post.

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