Simulating Milk Paint

[Lance Norris]

I just finished 2 small bookcases for my woodworking books, made of pine. I want a country look to these and want a milk paint type finish. I want the grain to show, but want color on these bookcases. My father has made lots of pine pieces(bookcases,footstools,benches) and used latex paint thinned 50/50 with water. Has anyone used the 50/50 latex/water technique? Any tips?

[Steve Schoene]

Why not use real milk paint, it's available at a lot of places? It's much more durable and you won't have any problem with "blocking" where things like books stick to even fully dry finish like you could get with latex paint.

When you thin latex paint that much you can also break down it's film forming ability.

[Lance Norris]

I guess I didnt realize it was available without special ordering it. I have never had any problems with sticking on anything my dad has made. Is this really a concern?

[Steven Wilson]

use real milk paint, it's a great looking finish. For finishing pine with milk paint I do the following.

1) apply a 1-1.5lb cut of dewaxed shellac to the pine. This will seal the pine.

2) mix and apply milk paint, thinned a bit to show grain, multiple coats to hide grain.

3) Once dry, lightly sand with grey scotch brite pad

4) apply a coat of boiled linseed oil to the milk paint and rub into the paint (not a thick application just enough to get the sheen right on the milk paint).

5) let boiled linseed dry and then top coat with two coats of General Finishes Arm-R-Seal (semi-gloss). Not looking for a large build, just something to finish off the finish.

The result is a very interesting look and a finish that can withstand abuse. Of course try on scrap first. BTW, this will look way better than latex paint.

[Brian Penning]

use real milk paint, it's a great looking finish. For finishing pine with milk paint I do the following.

1) apply a 1-1.5lb cut of dewaxed shellac to the pine. This will seal the pine.

Unless it's a previously finished piece the instructions for using milkpaint don't require the shellac or any sealing.

[Rob Tolentino]

My local Woodcraft has the real milk paint (powder form) that you mix yourself and also carries General Finishes version of milk paint. Both kinds work real well. General Finishes also has a video on their website abut finishing with their milk paint to get the "country" look.

I just recently built two small Shaker style benches and used their products. If I wasn't digitally challenged I would have posted a picture. Good luck with your projects.

[Rob Tolentino]

Also, I've found this site that has both the acrylic paints and simulated milk paints. I've been contemplating ordering from them for future products. Here it is www.oldecenturycolors.com/.

Again, good luck with your projects.

[Steven Wilson]

Unless it's a previously finished piece the instructions for using milkpaint don't require the shellac or any sealing.

Well if your pine has knots, the knots will telegraph through the milkpaint unless you use shellac to seal it. If you use alder or maple and glue up boards for table legs, the glue joint will show through unless you seal it with shellac. You can always spot seal with shellac (i.e. just apply some to the knots) but you'll probably be able to tell where you applied and didn't apply shellac first. To avoid any problems at all, seal the entire piece with shellac first. If you do then you can apply a very light coat of milkpaint to get that grainy washcoat effect.

Use the real milk paint and not the latex imitation

[Sandra Force]

I just use a heavily thinned latex paint. It works best with a pastel color, use water to thin to the look you want. It works the same as milk paint and doesn't have the drawbacks. Also, doesn't crack or get chalky as it ages.

[Larry Fox]

I agree with other posters who have advised just going straight to the milk paint. It is really cheap, great to work with, etc. I also agree with the advise to seal with shellac if you have any doubt as to what is on or in the wood that you don't want coming through.

I use the General Finishes stuff and it performs wonderfully although I do topcoat it with a few coats of lacquer.

[Steve Schoene]

General Finishes doesn't make milk paint. They make a 100% acyrlic paint in milk paint colors. Not the same thing at all. If you buy something in liquid form it is not milk paint.

It works best over bare wood. If you seal the wood, as with shellac, then you may need to add a bonding agent--essentially an acyrlic paint base, so it will adhere well. The look will be a bit different as a result.

Milk paint is much tougher than acyrlic paint. After it has cured for a month or so, I don't think methyl chloride paint stripper will remove it. It will water spot, but that is cosmetic and doesn't reduce the durability of the finish. Overcoating with an oil/varnish mix is the way I would guard from water spotting and give the darker richer colors often seen.

[Gary Keedwell]

I made a chimney cupboard for SWMBO and she used milk paint and then stenciled it. And if I remember correctly, she just rubbed BLO on it. Been in the master bath for 3 years and looks great.
Gary

[Lance Norris]

Thanks all for the advice.

[Steven Wilson]

Steve, if you use a thin coat of dewaxed shellac you don't need to apply a bonding agent. A thin coat of dewaxed shellac doesn't show any build and isn't glossy, but it will have done the job of sealing knots, glue joints and other things. If you were to put on a bunch of coats of shellac to get a build then you may want to use the bonding agent. I use milk paint on a lot of my projects and it's a real pain if you get a knot, glueline, or other artifact to show the the paint. Stripping milk paint is a pain.