Is this older Powermatic 60 8 inch jointer a good one?

[larry bradley]

Hi - pretty new here and appreciate all of the knowledge I've been gaining by reading the many thoughtful posts shared by so many. I'm still searching for my ideal bandsaw - and am leaning towards a Mini Max MM16 or an Agazzani B-18 or B-20 but that's another topic. Any advice on this prospective jointer would be appreciated.

I'm looking to buy my first jointer and have a lead on a Powermatic 8" Model 60 circa 1984 I think for around $800. I'm trying to get the serial number and more info. I don't have a photo but have one of a similar one down below. I seems like it's been well used but well cared for in a serious hobbyist home shop.

Is this era of Powermatic 60 a good machine generally? When did production standards for Powermatic change and then cease in the U.S.? 1988 new ownership, 1999 new ownership and offshore manufacturing - is this right? So would that make an '84 model 60 a good (med.) old iron one?

If I could get a 60 in good working order for $800 would that potentially be a good deal? And how do I move a 460 pound jointer?

What are the maintenance/care/red flag issues to inspect before I do buy it?

I plan on using it to help me make old pine flooring and panelling for an old house renovation - then have it for my shop as I find more time to create with wood.

Any Help/Ideas/Advice/Questions to ask would be appreciated.

Thanks!
LB

Photo of a similar one attached was given to me by the owner. The info I have on my prospective Model 60 is this:

Powermatic III Model 60 8” Jointer, 1.5HP, 1984

[Kirk Poore]

I'm looking to buy my first jointer and have a lead on a Powermatic 8" Model 60 circa 1984 I think for around $800. I'm trying to get the serial number and more info. I don't have a photo but have one of a similar one down below. I seems like it's been well used but well cared for in a serious hobbyist home shop.

There is nothing wrong with PM jointers of that class and era, in general. Deal breakers would be broken castings and worn bearing seats or cutterhead shaft. You need to inspect it for yourself, but if it is "well cared for" these shouldn't be a problem. Check the tables to make sure there is no droop on either end (they are parallel to each other)--this can be fixed, though, as can one table tilted left or right compared to the other. It is most unlikely that the tables won't be flat. Other than that, then maybe new blades and belt would be needed. It may be time for new bearings, but you can tell that by running it. I don't think they would be hard to change and PM seems to use standard size bearings. You can probably get a manual off the OWWM.com site, and ask more detailed questions on OWWM.org.

Kirk

[JayStPeter]

My personal opinion is that $800 is a lot for a used jointer when you can get very good ones new for that cost. I think "good old iron" is overrated in this category of tool.
Overall jointers are pretty simple machines. Check the tables are flat and coplaner and that the fence is solid and flat (the fence being the key issue with older jointers). Also make sure the adjustment mechanisms work well and there is no play in anything once locked down. If the thing has any issues, I'd either pass or offer significantly less money. Fixing a few things on an older jointer wound up costing me way more than I expected.

Jay

[Mike Spanbauer]

Hi larry,

I own the green version of your unit with handwheels instead of the arms. It's a solid unit, but I'd argue that any of the Tenn. PM's are ROCK solid. Shorter tables, but with care and proper technique it can be addressed. Put link belts on it quick, the vibration difference is immense and you'll be pleased with the results.

For $800 it's a fair price, but not a steal. The Invicta built DJ-20 can be found for about $1000 generally and possesses longer tables and a better adjustment mechanism IMO.

I'm considering upgrading my cutter head to a byrd, which runs about $450-500 and this is where I'm struggling. I can resell mine for 7-800 or I spend another $500 and possess a $1300 jointer which I know I can't sell for that... VS. a new 12" G0609 Grizzly machine

Since you're evaluating high end bandsaws, I would recommend pausing a moment and evaluating your commitment to woodworking (not whether you are, but rather how much and for how long ).

The reason I ask this question is a jointer is a simple tool, but you will use it on EVERY project. My bandsaw I use frequently, but not on every project... (Oh, btw, I do have an MM16).

I purchased my jointer before considering the work methods and would have opted for larger and not now be experiencing growing desires...

A 12" unit is a nice compromise between first and last jointer you'll ever buy and if you don't have a nice planer yet, you could even go with something like this: http://www.grizzly.com/products/G0633

Just some food for thought. I like my PM60, but I find myself wanting more now.

mike

[larry bradley]

Thanks very much guys. I'd like to buy local as this one is, and good old American made - though I'm sure Grizzly is making decent stuff. I was thinking this US made machine from 1984/85 might offer more heft and better quality for a long term commitment - if indeed it doesn't need refurbishing of major components, and everything is still flat and true, etc.

I have read some grizzly jointer comments that weren't glowing on quality and performance (perhaps lower models?). would this PM 60 8" (if in good running shape) not offer that old throwback "keep it for decades quality"?

Obviously the price point determines whether this makes sense or not as well.

Thanks for the input.

[Chris Rosenberger]

I traded for a Powermatic 60 over the weekend. They are nice machines. The one I have was built in 1989 & built in Tiawan. It was use in a small cabinet shop & help up very well. I do not think that $800 is out of line if it is in good condition.

[Ron Williams]

I have a PM 60 that was made in Tenn with the wheel adjusters instead of the arms it has served me well for years. I recently bought a 12 Extreme grizz. Have not decided what I am going to do with The PM probably use it on large trim jobs

[Carroll Courtney]

Larry,IMO 800 is at the top,but I think that is about the going rate.Plus in 10 or 20yrs that jointer will be the same.I think that the overseas one's will be lucky to get 10yrs out of them and if so will probably need parts.Good luck on finding parts.How about 20yrs from now, think about resale.No problem w/the PM but others will be worth alot less because something else will come along that is in style.If I was going to buy foreign,it would be the Giz.I do have the spindle and the drum sanders and love them.Parts are just a phone call away.I tell LOML that PM and Rockwell in an investment and as good as money in the bank.So far so good

[Bill Wyko]

Price seems to me a little steep but the quality should be top notch. When i go to buy a big tool like that I'd have 650 in one pocket and another 150 in my console of the truck just in case.

[Al Killian]

For a jointer that is 13 years old, I wouldnt go higher then $600. Many try to sell older tools for top price, but few get that top price when it is sold.

[Simon Dupay]

My personal opinion is that $800 is a lot for a used jointer when you can get very good ones new for that cost. I think "good old iron" is overrated in this category of tool.
Jay

You can't get this quality of a jointer from grizz,these jointers are made to last unlike imports where they want you to buy another one in five or ten years
larry bradley:
Is this era of Powermatic 60 a good machine generally? When did production standards for Powermatic change and then cease in the U.S.? 1988 new ownership, 1999 new ownership and offshore manufacturing - is this right? So would that make an '84 model 60 a good (med.) old iron one?

Powermatic I think stopped making machines (other then the 66,72, and the 27) in 2000-2002? when they where bought by jet.