router table insert recommendation

[Andy Henriksen]

Hello,

Anyone have any recommendation on a router plate for a Dewalt 618 router? I think maybe my next project should be to cobble together a servicable router table. I'm looking for the perfect mix of cheap, sturdy, and idiot-proof (it would be nice if there was a template available for cutting the hole in the table top).

I'm probably just gonna make the top (mdf+laminate), and build a quick table top stand for it from scraps, and use a simple clamped-on shop-made fence. Down the road, I'll probably make a proper cabinet and real fence.

[right now my only router table is a horrible cheap craftsman and the router that is in it only has a 1/4" collet, so I can't use half my bits. And there is no good way to mount the dewalt in the table. I really hate it, and will welcome the day I can unload it for good.]

Oh, and I probably won't be getting a new base anytime soon for the router, so I'll have to sacrifice one of the 3 bases for the table. I'm assuming the regular fixed base is best? this would leave me the D-handle and plunge base for free-routing. Does that make sense?

[glenn bradley]

Fixed base for plate attachment is affirmative. Think on this one a bit; the plate you choose will to some degree determine other things. I went with the Rockler plates and they have been great. Downside is (as with almost all manufacturers) that they are sized for Rockler's stuff; Woodpecker plates are sized for Woodpecker's stuff, etc.

I plan to get a lift and don't care for Rockler's options value-wise. A PRL carries a larger and thicker plate than Rockler (which my RT is built around). Fortunately I took this into consideration when I built the table and have room to expand and deepen the plate recess.

Just passing along the experience, limited as it is.

[Ron Bontz]

Hi. Just a thought. If you plan on going to the expense of building a router cabinet later, then you may consider going with one of the smaller aluminum plates initially. If and when you decide to go with a router lift you can always make the cut out bigger. The router lifts generally have templates available. Take care. Ron

[Andy Henriksen]

Hi. Just a thought. If you plan on going to the expense of building a router cabinet later, then you may consider going with one of the smaller aluminum plates initially. If and when you decide to go with a router lift you can always make the cut out bigger. The router lifts generally have templates available. Take care. Ron

"later" is likely several years from now, based on the way things tend to get done around these parts...

That said, my further research has me leaning towards the smaller aluminum rockler plate - 50 bucks, plus another 10 for the template and a few bucks for the pattern bit. Looks do-able, and would allow for expansion down the road as you suggest.

Edit: OK, now the whole table top w/ fence from rockler is looking like a good bargain at $170. How is it that happens with EVERY purchase. I start out looking at something around $50. Next thing I know I'm committing to several hundred dollars, and my head is spinning with schemes to hide it from the wife...

Thanks guys!

[Bill Huber]

Jointech has their phenolic universal plate on sale until 12/31.
It is a 3/8 plate 9 1/4 x 11 3/4 and comes with 3 insert rings and has 8 leveling screws, it is a nice looking plate.

http://www.jointech.com/routertops_plate-inserts.htm

[Ron Bontz]

I agree with Mr. Huber. The jointech is a good thought and is also the same size as the Woodpecker PRL, Jointech and Jessemm lift plates as I recall. I made my own router table and cabinet as well.

[Don Bullock]

...How is it that happens with EVERY purchase. I start out looking at something around $50. Next thing I know I'm committing to several hundred dollars, and my head is spinning with schemes to hide it from the wife...

Thanks guys!

You have that problem too? My jointer purchase suddenly jumped from less than $400 shipped to almost $900. Fortunately SWMBO usderstood the reason for the change. I'm afraid what a router and router table will cost me. Right now I'm avoiding that decision. Good luck with your decision and share the results with us.

[Norman Pyles]

I just picked up the Rockler plate and its probably good as any. I am going to mount a Frued 1700 in it. I am currently using a DW 618 in a home made table. I made the table from the top off a old chest of drawers. I just routed a spot in the bottom for the router to sit in. I left the area where the router mounts about 3/8's thick, and screwed the router to the bottom. Drilled a hole for the bits and had a top. I built a fence and just clamp it on. Made a small cabinet to mount on a workmate to set the table on. I put hinges on the top and just filp it up to change bits. With the 618 you can just drop the motor out, set it on the top and change bits. If you want quick and easy this sure worked for me, but I am going to make a real table in the near future. I have back problems and I need to have every thing mounted really high so I don't have to bend over. Good luck with what ever you choose.

[frank shic]

andy, keep in mind that the rockler plates come in two sizes and that the smaller size will not fit a raised panel bit. i found that even the larger size was a little on the tight side so i had to grind out the opening slightly to fit the freud 2+2 bit.

[Dave Stoler]

This is my first response to a post and I hate to say it but Rockler had a great deal last friday at there store.Router table $189 , get a free PC 1 1/4 hp router free.
So there are deals out there.Black friday traffice and a cleveland snow storm weren,t fun.

[Andy Henriksen]

andy, keep in mind that the rockler plates come in two sizes and that the smaller size will not fit a raised panel bit. i found that even the larger size was a little on the tight side so i had to grind out the opening slightly to fit the freud 2+2 bit.

I'm sure this is quite short sighted, but I don't see me needing to run any huge bits anytime soon. But, if the need arose in the future would it not be possible, to raise the router quite high, so that the bottom of the bit is above the table top surface (so that only the shaft is going through the insert hole), and then use a piece of mdf or plywood between the work piece and the table top? An extra step, and certainly less than convenient no doubt, but possible, yes?

[frank shic]

yes, your solution would work, andy.

[Brian Dormer]

Steer clear of Rosseau (also sold by MLCS) phenolic plates. They have a "crown" in the center thats supposed to be "pulled down" by the weight of the router hanging there.

In practice, even with the router hanging off the plate, the hump is still there - it's NOT FLAT. Just try cutting a long sliding dovetail or a box joint on one of these things and you will understand the problem.

Go with Rockler or WoodPeckers plates. Phenolic or Aluminum really doesn't matter that much - they are both good. You could also look at a Jessem Router Lift FX - fits the DW618 perfectly (yes, I have one).

bd

[frank shic]

brian, can you believe that i actually had three of those at one point before realizing why my rails and stiles never fit perfectly together? the upgrade to the rockler aluminum router plates WAS NOT CHEAP but a worthy investment for future projects.

[glenn bradley]

andy, keep in mind that the rockler plates come in two sizes and that the smaller size will not fit a raised panel bit. i found that even the larger size was a little on the tight side so i had to grind out the opening slightly to fit the freud 2+2 bit.

I run a 3 1/8" RP bit with no problem. Frank is right to warn you if you do a lot of RP's though as the small plate opening is 3 1/4".