Chainsaw sharpening problem

[Fred Voorhees]

sounds like the right teeth and the left teeth are different sizes from wear and sharpening. when did you last get a new chain? I think the bar is probably fine.

I've had this problem with my chainsaws in the past. It isn't the saw itself. It's the blade. Get a new blade and I'll bet dollars to donuts that your problem dissapears.

[Rob Will]

Yeah, you are wrong. I have been using a Stihl 019 since 1992. I cut wood for two woodstoves, also trim trees and clear fence rows. I have had chains with some teeth 1/8" longer than the others. I also have had a few missing teeth (from hitting barbwire). Neither makes a difference.

I also use Oregon solid steel bars without sprockets on the nose.....

You have got to be kidding. I have seen a blade cut sideways by simply giving one side of the chain an extra stroke with a file. Guys that cut timber for a living can lay a cruddy-looking old 066 into a butt log and throw long shavings with unbelievable speed and volume. It is all in having the right touch with the file. Rubbing small tree limbs in half with an 019 must be a different science from cutting a 4' log with an 066 . I think Chris has this one right.

If your time is worth anything replace the bar and chain.

Rob

[Jason Roehl]

One more issue not mentioned is whether or not the chain is tensioned enough while running the saw. A loose chain can result is curved/wandering cuts...

I don't sharpen by hand, unless it's just a touch-up in the field, I keep my chain tensioned, and I don't have any problems.

[Randy Cohen]

I have a stihl 038 since about '89 and i have never changed the bar. it cuts true and fast using the most aggressive chain i can buy. i hand sharpen as needed....no more than 2 strokes per tooth. i use a file guide. i have cut a lot of locust for firewood. when it cuts poorly its always the chain.

[Steve Dewey]

...Otherwise, will take to dealer and have them determine why this occured. Could sharpen and even the teeth but might simply happen again.
Many thanks to all the folks sharing their ideas. Had I looked more closely I could have saved you guys some time...sorry about that. Still must find out why the teeth are not identical...OR EVEN CLOSE. Need to get this fixed....there is a log still waiting .

The reason the teeth are not identical is because over time you sharpened untill they were sharp, not untill they were the same size. You also mentioned a rotary stone - that will take of metal mighty quick.

There is no need for the shop to "diagnose" the problem. Either replace the chain or have them sharpen it for you. When sharpening by hand, only use a file & do the same number of strokes on each tooth. Since most of us have a dominant hand (right or left) we tend to pull differently nearside & farside when sharpening the chain - leading to uneven teeth. Every once in a while, bring the chain in to the shop to get it back in spec.

[Steve Hilbert]

The are three reasons the kerf is curving:

1. The bar could be bent, sight down the bar and if it curves at all, time for a new one.

2. Uneven depth gauges. Physical teeth size does not matter. As long as the teeth are the same angle and the depth gauges are the same the saw will cut. Uneven teeth angles cause a larger chip to be cut because is more cutting surface to take a bigger chip. The cheapest way to test depth gauge is to lay a flat file on the teeth and sight the depth gauges. About the thickness of a dime is all you need.

That being said it is better to file all things even.

3. The other problem is a burr developed on the bar, on the sides. Run your finger nail along the bar and if you feel it catch near the bar grove you have a burr and it will need to be filed flat. Top and sides. This tool is the best for that because it gives you a 90 degree angle for the bar. Called BAR EDGE SHARPENER by Pferd.
http://gear.sherrilltree.com/iwwidb....ti_item_submit



As far as experience I was a tree climber, who used chainsaws on a daily basis.

Hope this helps,

Steve

[Chris Brault]

Rob Will thank you for the respect!!!! When Carl wrote that, that was my thinking also. Before I went in the woods, I worked at an old growth sawmill in Toutle, Wash. for 6 years.(base of Mt.St.Helens). We cut old growth Douglas Fir. And we occasionaly fought this problem. When you buck a 4-5' diameter tree that is 26" 10" long with an 084 (we had two 084's, one with 42"bar, one with 60" bar) you typically clean up one end of the log (2-3" off), then measure out and buck about at 13'3" give or take. 13' was the #1 length for the Japanese, who we were cutting the clear cants for at the time. Having the clean "faces" on these logs allows you to see the defects in them, allowing you to put the log into the mill to yield the best gain. Anyways, like Rob stated, if you are cutting crooked, (really crooked) on a 10,000$ peeler, and on a big log, you'll know it immediately. And if I had bucked one, and ended up with a 13' 6" on one, and a 12'6" on the other, not acceptable. I can get pictures on some of this stuff, if some think i'm kidding!! Losing one foot, because of a crooked buck job (and the Japanese did not like 12' lumber---at all) wouldn't have helped my quarterly bonus I recieved there and i would have got a chewing out for also.
Upon further thinking on this though, I could possibly be wrong. I do know how to "hand sharpen",,,,,,,, we all did at this mill. But, for speed and production, we had our chains professionaly ground at a local stihl dealer. It takes quite awhile to hand file a 60" chain if you've knicked it in the dirt or worse yet -rock. Carl's right on one account, yes, the teeth can be different lengths---- TO AN EXTENT!!! And yes the rakers can be a little different lengths---to an extent. But, most of the time when we had this problem------ it was the chain. I personally would start there. And if that doesn't do it, It could possible be a bad or bent bar. Those bars are awfully tough, but yes they can be bent. We had 2 084's, 1 -066 magnum, 1-044, and 2- 021's at this mill and used all of them daily.
And when i left there to go chase in the woods I ran either a 066 or a 044 daily, bucking more towards the 2-3' diameter obviously, not much old growth left out here, that is "unprotected" to log. But even when i was chasing under the tower, when i was bucking nice export red fir for weyerhaeuser, you were required to yield "nice, flush faces on export timber.

[Chris Barnett]

Cleaned and confirmed the bar was flat, but had a burr on the bottom left (and the top right since I had turned the bar previously). Had the chain sharpened at a Stihl dealer but what an experience! Using standard chain sharpening tool fixtures, the longer left side teeth were sharpened but could not be shortened to the same length as the right side. They did not have the tools to close up the channel on the bar's top and bottom, so guess I get to do that. Now, just how is it done....a two pound peen and an anvil ! Think I will use a 6-inch vice and work slowly. Worst case is .071 and nominal is .062 fore and rear; will be satisfied if the final is .062 - 065, and the bar still intact.
Bought a nice brand new very aggressive chain and think I will spring for a new bar too; when I do favors I will put the old chain and bar on the saw . Folks at Stihl dealer said the cant could be caused by just one bad tooth , or by a worn bar guide slot or a loose chain. Suppose my problem was also that the teeth on one side were .015 -020 longer than the other side...thats a lot! They are still longer but by a bit less. Will know after I attack the log again, after closing the slot and installing the sharpened chain. Don't think I want to use that nice new one on the old bar. Many thanks for all the information and comments.