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Thread: Don’t do it! Why newbies should NOT start with old planes.

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Plano, TX
    Posts
    2,036
    I can only add my perspective. My first plane purchase was a Bucks Brothers #3 equivalent from HD. How's that for reference

    From here I went straight to a Stanley #5 from eBay. It was certainly a fixer upper. I used electrolysis, probably spent $5-10 on consumables (washing soda and a tupperware box). I had never restored any tool up to that point, so I certainly wasn't very efficient and didn't have any needed tools. But the sandpaper and other things I purchased we reused (and some are still being used 4 yrs later). I used a glass plate on an MDF board.

    Any way, to cut the long story short. I jumped head first down the slope without knowing what I was getting into or any prior knowledge of the techniques to be used. I think that was probably the best project I did as far as learning is concerned. If I had purchased a high end plane like a LN ot LV I would have never learned the functionality of: the frog and it's orientation, why a chipbreaker is as important to tune as the blade, etc.

    I think a new comer should certainly buy an old Stanley and try to refurb it. But make sure you consult and read on-line info (as there is tons of it on the Internet) on rehabbing old planes. There are many cost effective alternatives which are as good as any. For example go to a local glass shop and ask them if the have a cut off they are willing to sell you for bargain price, they always have some lying around. Use citric acid instead of electrolysis. No need to repaint the plane, just clean it up real good with hand sanding and put on a coat of shellac, it won't be pretty but it will stay rust free. Go to Harbor Freight and buy belt sander belts for sole flattening, no need to go below 220 grit, just wax the sole after 220.
    Last edited by Zahid Naqvi; 12-03-2007 at 8:21 PM.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  2. #17
    Belt sanding.

    I have to admit, I took my #4 over to the oscillating belt sander, but got scared off right away. The plane is slightly longer than the flat part of the belt, and it seemed to me the spindles protruded slightly. I was certain I would ruin it. Maybe I should rethink that.
    Last edited by Danny Thompson; 12-03-2007 at 5:37 PM.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Windsor, MO
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    761
    Stick a hunk of glass under the belt with doublestick tape to ride the plane on. I've seen it done by other people. I just slide the plane back and forth but I seem to have a really good sense for keeping it level.

    Also if you have an older belt that is kind of worn, like a 120 that is almost used up, it cuts so slow you can take your time and make sure it's perfect.


  4. #19
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    Plano, TX
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    2,036
    Heck no, don't even let the Oscilating sander touch a plane.

    What I meant was buy the cheapest possible beltsander belt of about 150 grit (I can get a 3 pack for abour $5), cut it down the joint (there is always a place where they join the belt end-to-end) and stick it on an MDF board to give you a long flat surface for flattening a sole.
    The means by which an end is reached must exemplify the value of the end itself.

  5. #20
    If you are new to the world of hand tools.... find a mentor. Now I'm going to emphasize my point FIND A MENTOR. Yes, the shouting was intentional. It's that important to your success.

    I seriously doubt that there are very few places city, suburban, or rural where after a decent amount of looking on the various forums, dropping by the woodworking tools store and asking, or checking the listing of various clubs, that anyone can't find a willing instructor. If folks would devote 1/4 as much time trying to line up "live in person" assistance as they do fettling and rehabbing on their own, they would be better off. I'm not trying to pick on you Danny or on anyone else. I've been through this back before there was a www to make life easier for us hand tool folks. The level of my personal skills, my comfort level with trying something new, and my overall satisfaction with woodworking as a hobby grew exponentially after finding assistance through our NH guild.

    There are plenty of ways other than clubs though. All of the most successful ones share one common trait, a visible model of someone doing it right. Live and in person is best because it's interactive and you get immediate feedback and correction if you go off course. Videos can partially substitute for this if you play them over and over and analyze what is being done and equally importantly... not done. Ask on every forum you can find if someone is willing to mentor you...even once. Ask if your local shop or a school gives classes- adult ed courses are both great and inexpensive. Above all persevere in your search for a mentor, a mentor will cut your time wasted by a power of 10.
    Dave Anderson

    Chester, NH

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    extreme southeast Nebraska
    Posts
    3,113
    a few minutes touching up the blade. a very light pass over the jointer and woodies are ready to go to work.
    Jr.
    Hand tools are very modern- they are all cordless
    NORMAL is just a setting on the washing machine.
    Be who you are and say what you feel... because those that matter... don't mind...and those that mind...don't matter!
    By Hammer and Hand All Arts Do Stand

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    Windsor, MO
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    761
    Quote Originally Posted by Zahid Naqvi View Post
    Heck no, don't even let the Oscilating sander touch a plane.
    Yeah, turn the oscillation off. I have run planes on belt sanders before to straighten them up, works great. Different strokes.


  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
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    1,429
    Dave is absolutely right on the money. I've jokingly blamed Dave for pushing me down this slope! My first plane was a modern Stanley....now a doorstop! A little over 4 years ago, after delivering my son to college in Boston, Dave graciously agreed to a shop visit. WOW So that's what a hand plane is capable of doing! I was hooked and slid rapidly. Four years, several LFOD and other auctions, tailgates, flea markets later, I am almost completely Neander. But without a little "mentoring" I would have had no idea what to shoot for when I rehabed my first plane...a Type 20#5. With a Hock blade it can take a .001 shaving, although I rarely use it for smothing. The short of it...find someone, even if not much more experienced, a learn together if that what it takes. Good luck.

    Mark

  9. #24
    I run into this type of problem all the time.

    In golf, the debate is this, should a new golfer have expensive clubs. The answer is No! They should though, have clubs that Fit and Match them, be they expensive or cheap, so that they can do the job right.

    The students that start off with even just one properly matched club, progress much faster than those with a whole set of mismatched ones.

    So I would start a new woodworker off with top-end planes! A straight forward traditional plane that has no special goof-proof features, or flaws to have to overcome, because just like in golf, the challenge of the game is hard enough in itself, the last thing you need is for them to also have to do battle with the wrong equipment, so it is for the beginner woodworker.

    Yeah I know that this will get some peoples dander up, and that is not my goal here, so I'll apologize right now!

    A beginner will never be able to appreciate the subtle things that make a great plane, a great plane, such as the attention to the fact that you don't need little set screws to snug the blade by the mouth of the plane, because the blade and plane are already the right size to start with, or a screw with little to no back-lash.

    But you know these gimmicks sell planes to people who don't know any better, and if you want to make $$$$ then that is what you have to do.
    So does the fact that so and so plays with these golf clubs, so my kid has to have them.

    The feel and balance, the weight and responsiveness of the plane, with a good sized chunk of metal that is properly sharpened, being finely adjusted with a screw mechanism that has next to no back-lash in it's workings. All the while working a plane with a truly flat bottom that makes the wood yield to it's force, is what we all enjoy about using hand tools.

    Better to own one plane that truly performs well, than a whole bunch that are average or worse.

    If you want easy success, then buy an motorized tool that almost guarantees you success right in the warranty. Where's the joy in that! But hey maybe I am going to far here and need to apply a little restraint.

    I do own motorized tools, but I only work with them, while with my hand tools, I enjoy working with them. As for the end result, I sell the things that I make with motorized tools, but I admire the things I make with hand tools.

    Odd thing about golf is that the Pros kids usually turn out to be really good golfers, I wonder why that is?

    The Better the Tool the Better the Job .... and the more enjoyable the experience, if it's the right tool.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2003
    Location
    South Carolina
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    1,429
    Eddie, to take your golf analogy one step further, even more important than appropriate clubs...LESSONS. Way too many people start to play golf (or tennis, or bowling,or _________ (fill in the blank)), by simply starting out. Frustrations soon sets in because they do not know the basics, and many soon give up. My kids both took some bowling lessons in a kids after school league. They had fun, learned the basics, and still enjoy bowling and can do it pretty well. I have no clue, don't enjoy it...probably because I don't know the basics.
    Long story short...get a little basic instruction. Not to say that you can't be self taught...just ask Lee Trevino or Chi Chi Rodriguez...but it makes it a lot easier.

    Mark

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Oak Harbor, Whidbey Island, WA
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    2,550
    Gee I've had so much fun sharpening my planes & now I am reading and asking questions on how to use them.

    I really like the way the old tools look & feel & they seem to work just as described when ever I read about them or hear about them.

    I wouldn't mind having a nice shiny new LN or LV . But for the amount I have in what you see in the picture I wouldn't have had half the fun. Or half the tools.

    I have around $500 over several years in what you see in the picture. Are they perfect no but they are reasonably good users. I can set a square on the bottom of each plane & they are either absolutely square & flat are so close it doesn't matter. I've never had to flatten a sole of any plane that I have accept a wooden one & I expected that & it only took a very few minutes.

    I'll tell you one secret don't buy one of these tools unless you know the dealer & know they only sell good quality used tools or unless you can hold them in your hands & examine them.

    Don't buy them sight unseen.
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    Last edited by Bart Leetch; 12-03-2007 at 11:48 PM.
    I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect.

    My web page has a pop up. It is a free site, just close the pop up on the right side of the screen

  12. #27
    Great tips, one and all.

    Harry, if I only knew what to look for in a woodie . . . and owned a jointer.

    Bart, my mother always said it was rude to brag. Consider me green.

    Dave, good advice about the mentor, I've tried 2 so far: one has all Lee-Nielsen's and the other only has time for potential employees. I guess I better keep looking.

    I would be willing to add an asterisk about buying from dealers you know and trust, but how do you know and trust one before you buy your first plane? Reputation? I guess Clint is the leading candidate at this point.

    Okay, can we all agree on this:

    Feral Noobs--i.e., those raised in the woodworking wilderness--should NOT start with old planes!
    Last edited by Danny Thompson; 12-04-2007 at 12:38 AM.

  13. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    East Brunswick, NJ
    Posts
    1,475
    Just to emphasize what has been said above, when I started learning how to do woodworking about 9 months ago, the first thing I did was to take a class on the basics of woodworking, which included a session on sharpening plane blades and chisels. I also have the benefit of having a neighbor that knows how to use planes very well, so that was a reference point.

    My first plane was a Stanley #4 that I was able to whip into shape pretty quickly. Since then, I've seen many people ask, "Which plane should I buy first?" My answer is usually, "Take a class -- then it won't matter so much."

    Now, finding a class or someone to teach you is not always easy. In case you don't know about this group already, I found this on google:

    Greater Memphis Woodworker’s Club
    8078 Goringwood Lane
    Memphis, TN 38138

    They seem to meet at The Woodwork Shop every month. (http://www.thewoodworkshopinc.com) The Woodwork Shop also seems to offer classes.

  14. #29
    Wilbur. Thanks for the recommendation. I'll look into it.

  15. #30
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    East Central Illinois
    Posts
    532

    old planes

    I found a KeenKutter 5c which is a bedrock clone at a pawnshop for $4. Cleaned and sharpened it according to info found on the web. Works great. I also had to buy a Stanley aluminum plane to get the Stanley 9 1/2 that I wanted. I take the bad to get to the good.
    I am alone except for the learned advise of the web based mentors here and elsewhere. I have had good luck at auctions where power tools are the main draw. Not many neanders seem to show up.
    I have many power tools and I have made some very nice pieces with them, but there is something primal about using hand tools. I feel closer to the wood and what I am doing to it.
    It is an eclectic collection of planes, chisels, saws, and accessories. I couldn't possibly replace everything with new Lie-Nielson quality tools. This is a hobby for me and I have had success with reconditioning even rusty tools. I haven't ever flattened a sole and from the results I'm getting I don't think I need to.
    I have had some failures too but they haven't deterred me at all. I truly enjoy cleaning up, sharpening and using old tools.

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