Don’t do it! Why newbies should NOT start with old planes.

[Jake Darvall]

Hey Jake, the way to fix the young whippersnapper is to take one of the planes he borrows regularly and file or otherwise put a minor nick inot one section of the edge. You have the skill to fix it, but he'll get a real surprise the first time he tries to smoothe a surface.

Remember my friend, old age and treachery beat youth and enthusiasm every time.

I like it. I'll give it a go Dave. See what he does.

I just wish he'd try a bit harder. They tend to give up pretty quick I've noticed and reach for a belt sander or obital. Which is ok I suppose with some timber. Just means the planing skills are lost. Generally the finishes tend not to be as good. Dust everwhere. Uneven surfaces. uno, fudging when you don't need to fudge. Oversanding.

They don't learn how to read grain, which I think is most important. Which is one of those lessons that lends to all woodwork processes I reakon. Makes you eyeball the grain constantly to work out which way to push any blade.....and cause they rarely use them, when they do try, even when they sneak one of my planes, they make a mess of it, going against, or too coarse a shaving or whatever. No strength in their arms. No practise. So they think its all a waste of time, put it back on the shelf and fight over the belt sander again, and go through hundreds of belts ( I shouldn't rubbish it too much I suppose. the boss is into power plenty too.)

[Ron Petley]

The guy who introduced me to wood working showed me how to tune up a hand plane, as well as many other things. If it is your thing it is great fun, and not all that expensive. I think planes and woodworking is for fun and the money spent can be little or big bucks, as well as the time spent.
Well 20 odd years fast forward, from being taught how to tune a plane, we have the net and forums like this. Despite this I still basically tune a plane much the same way, forums like this have great tips to take it to another level and add to the whole wood working expierence and I love reading these forums, they unite the geeks of the world.
I think it is a matter of teething problems and will quickly tell you if this is for you. If not buy quality and call it a day. If it is for you read these sorts of forums and, yes, find a person to help you out to speed you along and avoid expensive pitfalls.
I would also heed the advice to avoid e bay and buy ones you can examine.
By the way thanks for starting a great thread.
Cheers Ron.

[harry strasil]

Tradition means handing on all that is of value to next generation.

[Danny Thompson]

IT'S FLAT!!!!!!

Over the weekend I ventured back to the AutoZone for another 3-pack of 120 grit automotive sandpaper (the purple sheets; not wet/dry, just dry; $4.99 + tax). (I actually picked up a third 3-pack of 120 and another of 60, just in case, but I didn't need them). An hour of work later, it was flat--side-to-side and front-to-back!

The technique I used was recommended by the sharpening instructor the ATL (Roswell?) Woodcraft. I blue-taped the sandpaper sheet to the granite surface plate with the long side of the plate toward me and the plane with its side toward me. I grabbed the knob with my left and tote with my right and pushed away from my body--effectively sliding the plane sideways across the sandpaper leaving sanding marks parallel to the mouth. At the end of each stroke I pidked up the plane and set it back down close to me. Five strokes right-handed, rotate 180 degrees, five strokes left-handed, then blow away the metal dust. Every 30 or so, I would check the bottom.

I also cleaned up/squared up the sides using my oscillating belt sander.

Now it's on to the sharpening (hopefully next weekend). I'll try the original blade and go from there.

Thanks for the advice and encouragement, everyone.

[Marcus Ward]

That is excellent, Danny. Glad to hear you're making progress. Let us know how it turns out. Do you have a jig for sharpening that blade? I'd say do it freehand but if you're not used to doing it that way, a jig might come in handy. Good luck and congratulations.

[Danny Thompson]

When I bought the granite surface plate, I also picked up a Veritas Mk.II. It is still in the box. I've sharpened a handfull of chisels freehand but will probably use the jig for this due to the thinness of the bevel (i.e., concerned it will be difficult to keep level).

[Marcus Ward]

A tip - make sure the microbevel knob is in the proper position when you start. Also I wouldn't bevel the back, just put a small microbevel on the normal bevel edge and go to town. Let us know how you like it. I use a Mk. II, it's nice.

[Roger Bell]

IT'S FLAT!!!!!!

Hey, hey. You haven't reconsidered your position on the question, have you?

[Walt Quadrato]

Danny,

I know I'm chimimg in on this late, but I just have to.

I went through the lot of posts and didn't see what type of #4 you bought...there are plenty out there that will never be good users no matter how much you fettle them, with a little more experience you'll be able to figure out which ones to stay away from...

sole flatness, when I buy a plane I always carry a Starrett straight edge and always pass by any with major problems, and it's not often I find a sole on a Stanley/Sargent/Union that's too far out of whack.

rust...well, don't buy one that's too much of a rust bucket...there's plenty out there so you can always be picky

same with japanning...unless it's extremely rare don't bother...that's just cosmetic stuff anyway

as far as blade and breaker...nothing wrong with old Stanley /sargent/union blades...short, well an inch of blade should last you at least five years...

missing parts...again, don't buy 'em...unless it has a part you need for another one!

there's plenty of good used older planes out there...don't be discouraged..


walt Q (who knows a thing or two about old planes :>)

[Larry Laffer]

Danny, Nic Obie is a member of this forum, maybe PM him.

Another vote for getting a plane from Nic. I got my first decent plane from him, a #4. Nice guy and does great work.

[Danny Thompson]

Thanks for the advice, Walt. Mine is a Stanley Bailey #4 Type 11 (1910-1918?).

For the record, here is a link to an earlier post with some pix documenting my yoke problem:

http://www.sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?t=67952

[jonathan snyder]

walt Q (who knows a thing or two about old planes :>)

Walt Definitely knows a thing or two about old planes and chisels, and just about every other tool you could ever want er need! If you want a good plane or other tool, with a money back guarantee see Walt.

Nice to see you posting here on the creek Walt!

Jonathan

[Cliff Rohrabacher]

Some guy named Sven has a web site where he tells you how to make a very good straight edge from cheap BORG grade bar stock - - - and he is correct. You can.


Old school tradesmen and toolmakers had to do things without all the fancy schmancy niceties that are so easily taken for granted such as straight flat reference surfaces. They made their own when one was available.

It's all a question of how much work you are willing to put into it and what you do - or don't know. The trades were often kept secret and those secrets guarded by guilds that would inflict serious pain and suffering for breaking the rules.

Now however, with a little googling and posting in places like this you can get in a few hours more information than most apprentices to the trades would get in a year.


30 some odd years ago I got my first planes. They were old and ill cared for. I didn't know whether the grind (bevel) should face up or down I knew nothing about planes but, I figured it out. I still have 'em. To this very day they are my best planes.

[Billy Chambless]

D
In the meantime, get a LV plane, or get a plane from Clint, Sandy, WaltQ, or one of the others who's around these boards. Let them know it's your first experience with a 'tuned' plane and they will take very good care of you.

That approach worked out well for me, being not only a newbie but. The Stanley #5 I got from Walt arrived ready to go AND he helped me get Dad's old Craftsman smoother back in the game.

[Jon Crowley]

Some guy named Sven has a web site where he tells you how to make a very good straight edge from cheap BORG grade bar stock - - - and he is correct. You can.

Would you happen to have a link to this?