PVC dust collection?

[Bryan Hunt]

For those of you that have installed PVC ducting for your dust collection system, did you glue your joints, or use screws? I'm thinking of using screws in case I decide to re-arrange the shop in the future (probably won't, but just in case).

Bryan

[Ken Deckelman]

I used 3 #8 by 1/2" hex head screws at each joint, then I applied a thin bead of clear silicone just in case...

[Dale Lesak]

I run 4" and didn't do either. they fit together tight and I've had no problems at all with the system. I've made a few changes and had to tap the joints apart they were that tight. The only screws I have used is to hold the gates into the pipe or fitting. I did use screws on the drops that weren't against the wall and was just hanging down. The one by or on the walls are held in place with the wall brackets and have never come apart.

[Ken Garlock]

Hi Bryan. I built a Bill Pentz design cyclone a couple years ago, and used 6" PVC for the ducting. At the joints I put one sheet metal screw that was just long enough to poke through into the inside of the pipe. Yes, I know the purist would cry fowl, I don't care.

At the joint I also used PL brand window caulking after the joint was screwed together. I just wore latex gloves to smooth the caulking into the joint just enough to seal it. I don't know why, but I too might want to take it apart some day. My thinking is that I may be able to run a utility knife around the joint to break the seal, and then after removing the screw, pull the joint apart.

[Bill Sticht]

Hi Bryan
I used 4" pvc and the joints are holding tight with no screws or adveshive as mentioned early.
the vertical runs held in place with pipe clamps. good luck with your project.

[Rick Gooden]

I did the same as Dave with friction fit on 4", gates tacked with screws. I've had this arrangement for a couple of years and has served me well. I am about to make significant changes and now I am very glad it will be easy to disassemble and reassemble in a different configuration.

[Jameel Abraham]

Make sure you shove the duct into the fitting as far as possible (usually about 3" for 6" duct). I only put screws where joints might be under some stress or gravity pull. You definitely dont need caulk. I check all my joints and there aren't any leaks. I did caulk a couple places where I could hear hissing (shut all your gates and crank on the DC, you'll be able to hear where its leaking). Ed Morgano (ClearVue maker) doesn't recommend any caulk or glue.

[Stan Welborn]

Make sure you shove the duct into the fitting as far as possible (usually about 3" for 6" duct). I only put screws where joints might be under some stress or gravity pull. You definitely dont need caulk. I check all my joints and there aren't any leaks. I did caulk a couple places where I could hear hissing (shut all your gates and crank on the DC, you'll be able to hear where its leaking). Ed Morgano (ClearVue maker) doesn't recommend any caulk or glue.

Same hear. I only used screws a scant few places where it was supporting itself. No caulk.

[Matt Meiser]

6" PVC, screws in in a few places where needed to hold things together, then caulked. Mine leaked just enough to make caulking everything best. DO NOT CAULK BEFORE PUTTING PIECES TOGETHER! Trust me. I made that mistake at my old house and had to destroy some fittings to get things apart.

[Jim Podsedly]

I just installed thin walled 4" pvc in my shop today.

Well i had a pice of flex hose from Jet and the hose does not fit over the pvc!

Now what?

what have other done? what kind of flex hose will fit over thin walled 4" pvc?


btw - i put two screws in each joint and caulked. real dilemna on 4" vs. 6" but went eventaully settled with 4". I hope i do not regret in the long run.

Thanks,
Jim

[Terry Sparks]

I just installed thin walled 4" pvc in my shop today.

Well i had a pice of flex hose from Jet and the hose does not fit over the pvc!

Now what?

what have other done? what kind of flex hose will fit over thin walled 4" pvc?


btw - i put two screws in each joint and caulked. real dilemna on 4" vs. 6" but went eventaully settled with 4". I hope i do not regret in the long run.

Thanks,
Jim

Buy a 4" schedule 80 coupler, glue your flex hose to the inside of the coupler, get some thin metal strips for bracing that will accept a small machine screw to bolt it through the coupler to keep everything in place and if you wish, run a bead of caulk around the end of the flex hose inside the coupler to smooth the transition between the two. All that's left is to slip the open end of the coupler onto your ducting.

[Matt Meiser]

Another thing that works is to buy a piece of snaplock HVAC pipe. It should slide inside the PVC and the flex.

[Daryl Upole]

I glued most of mine except for a couple strategic joints to break apart. I have made modifications but the couplers are cheap and I just cut and re-glue. The ones not glued, I have noticed dust that collects on the pipe; so it definitely works its way through. So, on those I used some really good 2" 3M tape.

I've had it up and running for a couple years now.

PS, I wired my shop to kick on the DC when there is current sensed from the circuits that I wanted. I think I got the details from a Fine Woodworking article and all the parts were at Grainger for that. I've never regretted doing this.

[Jim O'Dell]

I've used 6" PVC exclusively on the intake side. I have used white paintable Alex Laytex caulk. Like Matt said, shove the pipe together, then caulk the outside ring. Easily comes back apart.
I don't know about the Jet hose, but the hose I got, normal duty not the heavy duty, from Woodworker's Warehouse is a tight fit, both 4" and 6". I had to heat it up with a hair dryer, and walk it on. I've even quit using clamps on it...doesn't need it. Try a hair dryer for a few minutes to heat up the flex hose. That might do the trick. Others have taken a hack saw and cut slits in the PVC pipe, used a hose clamp to tighten the radius, then slip the hose on. I'm glad I didn't have to do that. Although, I did toss the Wynn Environmental 6" flex piece that Ed puts on the bottom of the Clear Vue cyclone. I could not get it to go over the pipe on the chip barrel lid. Total frustration! But in honest/full disclosure, that hose is heavier duty that what I bought. But I've had no problem with the flex hose I bought. Jim.

[Todd Franks]

I have 6" PVC. Three sheet metal screws per connection, and to prevent leaks I sealed every joint with foil tape. I'm upgrading to a cyclone and will be reworking some of the PVC. I'm SO glad I didn't use any caulk.

I also used the same trick Matt suggested, metal HVAC pipe for connecting to flex hose (I use Wynn Env.) I had to crimp the ends in order for the metal HVAC pipe to fit inside the PVC pipe

-Todd