Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 16 to 23 of 23

Thread: Attaching face frames to Melamine boxes; Hanging Melamine boxes

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Meiser View Post
    Brian, is there much concern with the pocket hole screw heads pulling through the melamine?
    Matt,

    I just got though building a melamine outfeed table. (Still have to attach it to the saw. I also built my side table out of melamine. I had no problems with splitting with 3/4 melamine. I spaced my screws every 8-10 inches and 2-3 inches in from the end. All is well.

    If the cabinet is fitting between two walls is it a possibility to screw through the sides of the cabinet and then cover the screws?
    Jeff Sudmeier

    "It's not the quality of the tool being used, it's the skills of the craftsman using the tool that really matter. Unfortunately, I don't have high quality in either"

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Dec 2004
    Location
    NW Indiana
    Posts
    1,050
    I used melamine on my kitchen cabinets. They have maple face frames I Kreg jig with 1 1/4" fine pitch pocket screws. No problem at all.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    Quote Originally Posted by Jeff Sudmeier View Post
    If the cabinet is fitting between two walls is it a possibility to screw through the sides of the cabinet and then cover the screws?
    It is, but one wall is an original 1860 wall with unevenly spaced studs, so finding one would be an adventure of its own. The other wall was built about 100 years later when the bathroom was put in so I'd be OK there.


  4. #19
    Matt, if you're going with 1/4" for the back material you could do this. Make a rail out of 3/4 material (poplar, pine oak etc), plow a groove in it as well along one edge, then form stub tenons on the end and glue it in the groove for the back near the top and one at the bottom. This makes essentially a frame and panel back for the cabinet and also gives you a positive way to mount the cabinet to the wall. You just plow your groove in the cabinet sides for the back panel as usual, but instead of just the 1/4" back you have a rail at the top and bottom fitted into the same groove as the panel. It goes toghether like a frame and panel door. The rails are flush with the back of the cabinet.
    And since everyone is throwing in a vote for the face frame method of choice, if given a choice of biscuits and glue or pocket screws theres no contest for me it would be biscuits hands down. Particle board crumbles too easy for my taste in an application like this. Some have had good luck with it and thats great but I wouldnt want to be the one who had bad luck! If you're going to go to the trouble to build something nice why not eliminate the possibility of failure whenever and where ever you can to make sure something doesnt fail? Thats how I look at it.
    Hope this helps!

    Jim
    If at first you don't succeed, look in the trash for the instructions.





  5. #20
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    walnut creek, california
    Posts
    2,347
    matt, i have used pocket screws for securing face frames to the cabinet carcase and a 3/4" scrap of melamine or plywood that was screwed into the sides of the cabinet installed BEHIND the back.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Mt. Pleasant, MI
    Posts
    2,924
    Last one I did and the one I am doing now is glue and pocket screws if the end is hidden. Glue and clamps if it isn't.

    A 30" wide x 36" tall cabinet with 3/4 melamine has well over 80 square inches of glue surface on the face frame.

    I generally cut a 3/4 hanging rail and use assembly screws (zip r's) when I can, pocket screws if I have to. Now I am using 1/2 backs so no hanging rails.

    Joe
    JC Custom WoodWorks

    For best results, try not to do anything stupid.

    "So this is how liberty dies...with thunderous applause." - Padmé Amidala "Star Wars III: The Revenge of the Sith"

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Mazon, Il
    Posts
    375
    Matt,

    I'm going to start a kitchen with inexpensive melamine particle core boxes too, then add face frames and paneled doors and large drawers mainly on the lower units. I fully plan to use bisques for the FF's flip the box over and clamp face down to my "bench". I plan to dado to corners together with yellow glue and confirmat screws, and, on the uppers, because side cabinets will have added frame and panels, I was going to use a heftier aback with a short enough dado to just break the melamine to expose a glue surface and not worry about it's overly exposed thickness.

    On the bottoms, I think I will glue and staple 1/4" luan and be done with it, then reinforce for counters.

    Also, Matt, are you incorporating the kick into your side panels, or mounting the box to a frame, or using Euro type adjustable legs/feet? I was going to build a frame and mount the cab's on top... but the Euro legs may need more research on my part.

    How's it going so far?
    Last edited by Paul Simmel; 12-31-2007 at 12:59 AM. Reason: to subcribe to thread

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    Monroe, MI
    Posts
    11,896
    I haven't started yet. Probably tomorrow. This projectect is just wall cabinets. For my own bathroom, I did the separate base and boxes which worked out well because it was really easy to level the base.


Similar Threads

  1. Milling stock with a combination of hand and power tools
    By Ted Fullerton in forum Neanderthal Haven
    Replies: 14
    Last Post: 03-28-2007, 11:33 AM
  2. steps to construct face frames
    By Jason Morgan in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 7
    Last Post: 09-30-2006, 1:08 AM
  3. Face Frames and Drum Sanders
    By Jay Albrandt in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 05-24-2006, 11:19 PM
  4. Best way to attach face frames
    By Brad Tallis in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 04-17-2006, 7:23 PM
  5. Attaching drawer frames to chest sides
    By Lincoln Myers in forum General Woodworking and Power Tools
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 09-24-2003, 1:20 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •