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Thread: Is a radial arm saw a worthwhile tool to buy?

  1. #1

    Is a radial arm saw a worthwhile tool to buy?

    Hi all,

    First post here. I'm just getting into woodworking and will be putting together a basement shop, so will be asking lots of questions about layout and tools.

    First one, is should I buy a radial arm saw? I used one in a woodworking class I took, but only because they did not have a miter saw. Right now for saws I have a 10" compound miter saw, table saw and small bandsaw, and of course jig, circular, etc. So, question is, should I get a radial arm saw? I see Craftsman 10" radial arm saws on Craigslist all the time for ~$100-. Which seems like short money. But, should I bother? Is money better spent towards a 12" sliding compound miter saw? And anyway, what are the advantages of a radial arm saw over the compound miter and tablesaw.

    Thanks very much.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
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    If you have plenty of room, and you can find a good one, they are worth having. Nothing better for dados; and the 16" crosscut is nice. They do not replace a CMS, as adjusting them to angles is a royal pain.
    I got rid of mine because I couldn't justify the space it took up.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
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    Roseville, MN
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    I'd get one, there great for dadoes, wide crosscuts, and rough cutting lumber (safer then a miter saw). Get either a Delta, Comet, Dewalt, or Craftsmen older then 1970 (not like the one in the pic).

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    SE Wisconsin
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    Since you already have a compound miter saw, I don't see much advantage to buying a radial arm saw. As was said by the other fellows, they work very well for dadoes and wide crosscuts. I use mine almost exclusively for these purposes. I have an older Craftsman that has worked well. I've thought about selling it and buying a sliding compound miter saw but don't see that much advantage as I don't do much with odd angles. If you can find a decent one for a decent price and you have the room for it, then I would say go for it. If you get one, make sure you get yourself the appropriate blade that won't make the saw want to come at you and rip your arm off.

  5. #5
    The radial was my first saw. Now that I have a table saw and a slide miter saw I rarely use it. Sometimes I set it up for a specific task and leave it so I do not continually have to adjust one of the other saws.
    ...It’s easier to recommend this than to do it my self…
    If you are planning a project and need a specific tool or do a repetitive task and need a specific tool for that task that is the time to look for and buy that tool.
    That being said I have a lot of tools lying around the shop that are never used but bought them fully intending to use them some day….

  6. I have a Sears Craftsman 10" Professional, never keeps a setting radial arm saw. It is total junk, that is why they are selling a $525, at least when I bought it saw, for only $100 used.
    What I am using it for is to lock it at a perfect 90, tighten it down real good at that setting, and use an inexpensive Avengar Dado set with it, stackable at exactly 1/4". It makes a great dado station that way. If I need to kerf out a pocket, I can mark my lines, both width, and the bottom depth, and go over there and use it. No having to reset up or configure table saw with dado blades that way. Of course for long dados, the table saw is required.
    For that reason, and that reason only, I keep the Craftsman saw. I noticed that someone mentioned certain years Craftsman were ok, that is something to consider. I know some of the heavy Delta's did a good job. Radial arm saws as you may well know are dangerous due to the nature of the way they are put together. They are forced to spin the blade so as to keep the workpiece trapped against the rear fence. That forces the blade, with the sliding arm to want to jump across the wood right at you. So the RAS I mentioned above does have one feature that is worthwhile, and that is a steel cable, mounted to a separate motor, that you can adjust the feed rate to a slow or faster speed, but what I prevents is the unit kicking back at you. So be careful shopping for older saws, or at least in using one. The temptation is to put your hand sideways across the board, and start your cut. If the saw kicks, and scoots across the board, it could dance right into your hand.
    Dual Compound Sliding Miter Saws, and there are many good ones out there, my preference are the Makitas for there total accuracy, are a welcome addition to any shop. Many use high quality miter gauges, with built in stops to cut miters on the table saw. I prefer to cut miters on the Makita, which has a shop stand it is located on, with a stop, and measure system out the left side. I just dial in a number, set the saw, and know I am getting totally accurate results every time. (I do check it once in a while though) The sliders can handle wider boards, usually up to 12 inches or thereabouts, so they have an advantage of a chop saw.
    Radial Arm saws have a deeper range depending on the model, so they enable you to cut wider pieces.
    I had such a bad experience with accuracy on the Sears, that I dare not use it for ripping, the position that picture shows you. Table saw for that.
    Just my .02
    "Fine is the artist who loves his tools as well as his work."

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
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    While they do work well on dadoes, to me they are one of the most dangerous saws you can put in your shop. Admittedly the saw I had was on the poor end in regards to quality (a mid 70's vintage Craftsman) and from what I have heard the old iron Delta and Rockwell saws are fantastic. I had more instances with the blade grabbing and jumping across a board while crosscutting than I care to remember, and while you can turn the head and rip its not real safe doing that plus you already have a TS.
    David

  8. #8
    put my craftsman on the curb 10 years ago, have never missed it.

  9. #9
    mine has a cable that attaches to the saw so when you pull the trigger the cable is actuated allowing the saw to move. It works great....it's a craftsman... It does work great for those dados and that is how it is usually set up.

  10. #10
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    I got one out back I'll give you if you get it out of my way.
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  11. #11
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Uniontown, Pa
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    I would not buy one just to have it. I started out with(and still have) a 1963 Craftsman. It is solid as a tank and weighs almost as much. I was always neverous ripping with it. I even used it to make 3" cove molding by tilting the blade and angleing the arm. That was a trip on the wild side although it came out alright. You can rip with your bandsaw. You won't get ready to glue rips but it is a heck of lot safer IMHO.
    Jim

  12. #12
    Join Date
    May 2006
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    Murray,Ky
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    I hate to be the only one with a different opinion, but here goes. As I stated in an earlier post, I recently purchased an old Dewalt MBF and I absolutely love it. Unlike some of the newer RAS's on the market, these old Dewalt and Delta Rockwell saws are built to last and once they are tuned they pretty much stay tuned. A flat table is a must in order to properly tune your saw. It is much closer to being dead on accurate than my DW 708.

  13. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    And old, heavy, big and quality RAS (or a new one from Original Saw Company) would be a good investment if you have the room to truly use it, but in most cases these days, there are better solutions and ways to invest your money in tools. The smaller, light machines that came off the assembly lines in the last 20-30 years typically are very hard to keep accurate and a good chunk of them have had recalls for safety, etc. So in this respect, I'm in agreement with Mr. Rose...
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Join Date
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    I built the kitchen cabinets at the last house using nothing but a early '80s Craftsman RAS and a really, really cheap steel router table and 3/4 HP B&D router. I was never afraid using the saw, but I religeously used the nose of the blade guard to hold the material to the table, and used guides to hold the material, especially when ripping. I even used the shaper head on it a couple times. Now that DID scare me!!
    I eventually killed it cutting retaining wall concrete blocks. And bought a contractor saw. I wouldn't go back. I do wish I had kept the mechanism that raised and lowered the cutting head. I think i could use it somehow to raise and lower another piece of equipment.
    Dad gave me his RAS, an even older Craftsman. I have a dado head on it, but have used it more as a makeshift disc sander to smooth the cuts on the 6" PVC for the cyclone. Don't really plan to use it much for cutting wood.
    If I had had some spare money a year or so ago, there was an old DeWalt RAS in the paper for 200.00. I would have loved to have had that! Whether I used it or not, those are just cool looking machines.
    I wouldn't spend money on a Craftsman RAS. Get something more useful. Jim.
    Coolmeadow Setters...Exclusively Irish! When Irish Eyes are smiling....They're usually up to something!!
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  15. #15
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    I'm with Al on this one. I bought an old heavy iron Craftsman from a CL ad for $75 about a year ago. I wanted it specifically for dados but find myself also using it to rough cross cut long, wide lumber (I have a 12" CMS).

    I had NEVER used a RAS before and had a little apprehension the first time I used it because of all the negative posts here. The blade it came with was a standard saw blade and I did notice some climbing towards me while cutting. It did not, however, jump or come shooting at me. As with any other WW tool, I kept my hands at a safe location and maintained positive control of the wood and the saw.

    I installed a negative hook angle blade and now the RAS is a charm to work with and I find myself using it very regularly for wide cross cuts - without any apprehension.

    Of course, as you have already heard - YMMV. There are a lot of people out there that are absolutely dead set against the RAS. I'll keep mine.

    Be well,

    Doc

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